I am going to buy a 79 el camino v6 3 speed on the floor this friday. I was looking online for more info and found this site. But any way my
question is how rare is this car and how well does a 3 speed handle rough
treatment i mean would it be able to handle a small blocks horse power or would i have to get a 4 speed. I really dont know a lot about these transmisssions and would like to know more.....


thanks,
mike

I had a 1980 GMC full size truck with the 3-spd. manual behind the same 350 I have in my Elky now. It took all kinds of abuse. I'd dump the clutch in 1st, bark the 235/75/15's going into 2nd all the time. They hold up well. I was also told by a guy at the local salvage yard that those trannys are snagged up by the circle track guys for roundie-round racing. 8)

It's not too often one comes across one of the V6 3-spds, at least not around this part of the country.

I bought a 81 Malibu V6 speed std on the floor new in '82. It was one of 12,000 built in Canada for export, that never left the country.

The transmission was a Saginaw. First gear was 3.5:1, second, 1.8:1, and third 1:1. Rear end was 2.78:1. I installed a Hurst 3 speed Syncroloc shifter, and wore out the second gear syncro quickly because of the large ratio jump. If I downshifted to pass on back roads, the 6 ran out of breath before I got around he guy. The clutch lasted about about 6 years. When I replaced it, I installed a Saginaw 4 speed from a 66 Chevelle in its place. They look almost identical.The 4 speed had a 2.52:1 first gear and I wore the clutch out in about 2 months. It needed lower rear gears like 3.23. I converted the car to automatic, sold it, but kept the standard parts.

Take a look at this http://elcaminocentral.com/modules.php?set_albumName=albun20&id=80_Elky_Int1&op=modload&name=Gallery&file=index&include=view_photo.php
It's linked behind a STRONG 350 and I get rubber in all gears. Gotta shift quick from the low ratio first gear, but the strong second more than makes up for the difference. The rear end is a 373 posi. More fun than a guy should be able to have legally! 8)

It's a nice looking setup. A strong 350 and 3.73's would certainly make it more fun to drive.

I moved my standard setup into a '78 and installed a Saginaw 4 speed from a Vega with a 3.15:1 first gear and 2.78 rear. It hasn't got out of the driveway yet, so I don't know if the ratio's work well yet.
The V6 came with a 12 3/4", 153 tooth flywheel, and a 10" clutch. I came across a 14" 168 tooth flywheel with an 11" clutch so I thought I would upgrade when I installed the system. After a lot of investigation, I was told only V8 Elkys had the right belhousing for a G body with a 14" Flywheel, but an 80's Camaro 464697 belhousing was the same casting. I found one and they have a double boss for the clutch fork pivot. I welded up one boss and had the other machined to work with the G body fork. Everything is working but I don't seem to have enough clutch pedal travel. I extended the threaded clutch linkage pivot by welding on a piece of 3/8 hex, but the pedal is still too close to the floor.
I'm using a short thowout bearing. I know there's a longer one but I'm not sure what they came stock in to order one.They also make longer or adjustable clutch pivots. Has anyone had this problem?

would any of you guy know if the bell housing from the 229 fit on a 305? the trams is a T-10 behinf the 229

It should bolt right up. All the Chev's, 90 degree V6, sbc, and bbc use the same pattern. Buick/Olds/Pontiac are common, but different than Chev.

Yes, the bellhousing will bolt to the 305. Also all the linkage will work.

I dont beleve the fork will work the V8s use the one with a turn dowm on the end were the linkage goes and the 229 has a straight end

The belhousing I had was casting number 462606 from a 229 '81 Malibu.

It will work with any Chev engine (using the fork you mentioned with the turned down end) in any G body application. It's not likely to work in other non G body applications. There's a good writeup at
http://garage-scene.home.att.net/t5_install.htm

well now she what to change from 4 to auto (2004R) as for the wiring what would need to be do to change a standard trans wiring harness to a auto if any shifter will be B&M change pedal any thing else I my Self prefer the T/10 but what a guy to do when the wife cant make up her mind I suggested keep the 4 speed and change the 229 to a 305 TPI and she will be happy running down the rice burners and low riders in our area or use her turbo bettle for the light work :P

Well to each his own, but I'd keep it a manual trans and the T-10 would have been a good choice. However if it's going to be a daily driver for your wife then maybe an automatic would be the way to go for her.

I put a 700r4 in my 62 Pontiac. The 2004r is a similar hookup.

You need the electrical power to lock the convetor. From your fuse box you need a hot wire when the car is running. I ran it through a salvaged cruise control kick-out switch next to the the stop light switch for my brake pedal. You also should have a vacuum switch hooked to you intake manifold to unlock it when you step on the gas. Most '80's GM rwd cars have them mounted on an inner fender. The power runs through both switches and into a connection on the side of the transmission. TCI sells a lockup kit

You need a bracket on the carb for the TV cable that controls the shifts.

The 200r4 trans has its mount farther back than th350's or 4 speed manuals. G bodies with a 200r4's used extensions to the front frame rails and a slightly different crossmember and a shorter driveshaft. You would have to salvage the pieces from an '81 up G body. Also, the rearend ratio has to be such that when it goes it goes into overdrive (.67)the final numer isn't to low.

i placed a 2004r in my 79 monte had the wiring in the trans rewired and only need one wire to the pedal to un lock i beleve i was thinking of doing the same thing. but the wiring i was talking about is in the harness I was think ing of using the clutch start wire and placing it on the colum i think that the only thin i have to do or is there any thing else. i also have a automatic harness from a 85 that I can change over if need be hope its not nessecery what would be the best way to do the job. the reason i've been given for changing from 4 to auto is that she is unhappy with the feel some times the padel feels easy and other times it feels hard. change every componet and it still does it. please she is getting lazy the bettle is also stick and i wont let her drive my truck ang my elky is a frame up restore that would be done for a long while and even when complete she will not be allowed to drive. :o

I don't have a wiring diagram, but I would think that the clutch start wire is just an open/close switch on the pedal, between the key switch and the starter. It would only be energized when you start the car and you have to put he clutch in to close the switch. In that case it wouldn't be powered when your just driving.

You could just splice into the wire going to your radio.

Unless you have a rear axle axle ratio that is over 3:1(3.23, 3.42, etc.), it might be simpler to just instal a th350.

know my wife and i do she will what it put 13 155s tires on it my make it a low rider so if any think i would leave it 229 with a 2004r for the overdrive to compensate to the smaller tires. like my daughters monte