I got a full face dash cap to finish off my interior restoration. When I tried a test fit I didn't see how I could do a good job with the dash in the car. After reading a previous post about how easy it was to remove I decided to take mine out and clean up all the extra wiring I'd put in over the last several years. I am also going to install a BCM to control the interior lighting, it allows for gradual dimming of the lights. I didn't know there could be so many wires under the dash. A lot the wiring was leftovers from the computer, which I'm removing during the cleanup. Here are several pictures taken during the process so far, Day1, Day2 & Day3.http://elcaminocentral.com/users/nlandin/dash4.jpghttp://elcaminocentral .com/users/nlandin/dash9.jpghttp://elcaminocentral.com/users/nlandin/dash12.jpg

So that's what I have to look forward to when I replace my dash? Hmm can hardly wait. 8O

Be sure to post pics when you're done.

I see you removed the dash insert, are there screws or clips holding it in place and is access gained from behind the radio and through the glove box? I've got a NOS piece sittin on my bench waitin to go in....

Been there, done that, ENJOY!! :-P :D

Those photos. looked familiar, even the color. My son amd I just complested his full face dash cap install last night. At first I thought the same as you about removing the dash to install the cap but after I had it out it appeared to be tough to secure the cap to the dash so that the adhesive would hold. We cleaned the duckwork, the fire wall and everything else to the rear of the dash and placed it back in without the cap. I did paint the edges of the dash before we installed it. Place the cap on the dash and you will see some areas that are not covered.
Lessons learned:
1) On the inst cluster housing, there are 4 - 10mm studs holding it on. These go through the dash and have a nut on the back side. Be sure that the studs and the backup nut are tight before putting the dash back in.
2) Check the inst cluster connector to the plug in the dash and make sure that the copper pieces from the circuit tape are not damaged. This can be repaired with copper tape if they are.
3)Place the insert that is on the right side of the dash in place before installing the cap.
4)I had to shave my glove box door back a little on the right side to get it to close. Easy to do with a knife and it does not show.
5) Radio face plate is a tight fit. You could install first like the insert but you would be hosed if you want to remove your radio later on. Suggest trimming that back to fit in place after cap install. It should not take much of the face plate away.
6)Instrument cluster area will need some trimming also. We trimmed ours after the install and it barely shows.
7) The cap came with a tude of adhesive but it actually needed three to get the job done. Have some extra on hand.
8)I got my paint in cans from SEMS along with the cleaner. I thought we could paint all of the interior (less vinyle) with two cans, Wrong! It took almost three cans to do the job, one can for the dash alone. I ordered another can this morning because we still have to paint all the plactic behind the seat.
Good luck, if I think of anything else I will let you know. The dash now looks 100% better, as close to new as can be expected.

I'll second everything Pademama posted. I have used 3 1/2 cans of SEM so far and still have the section behind the seat to do.

I used the SEM Prep and then the Sand Free, and the results have been outstanding. I have never done this before and was expecting more errors and problems on my part but the directions and some patience has paid off.

I did not remove the old cracked dash. However, after testing the fit of the full face cap without gluing, I removed to apply SEM to several places including the glove box, around the passenger A/C vent, and both sides of the kick panels before installing the cap again. I've gotten pretty adept at loosening the cluster ( the point made about the left hand part of the cap must have the instrument cluster loose is imperative; I know I had to re-do this a couple of times and I remember it well now.

Once I find an appropriate replacement for the insulation in the doors, and install the aftermarket remote electric door locks I will be sending the truck to the painter. Hopefully my upholstery will be delivered by the time I get the truck back. One regret I have now is that I didn't take pictures of the "before".

I'll second everything Pademama posted. I have used 3 1/2 cans of SEM so far and still have the section behind the seat to do.

I used the SEM Prep and then the Sand Free, and the results have been outstanding. I have never done this before and was expecting more errors and problems on my part but the directions and some patience has paid off.

I did not remove the old cracked dash. However, after testing the fit of the full face cap without gluing, I removed to apply SEM to several places including the glove box, around the passenger A/C vent, and both sides of the kick panels before installing the cap again. I've gotten pretty adept at loosening the cluster ( the point made about the left hand part of the cap must have the instrument cluster loose is imperative; I know I had to re-do this a couple of times and I remember it well now.

Once I find an appropriate replacement for the insulation in the doors, and install the aftermarket remote electric door locks I will be sending the truck to the painter. Hopefully my upholstery will be delivered by the time I get the truck back. One regret I have now is that I didn't take pictures of the "before".