I got an Edelbrock 1406 Carb off ebay for about 100 bucks. Anyway, I'm just curious if i'm gonna need anything extra to switch it out with my old Q-jet?

If I remember right, all you need to change is the lead to your choke. You will need to find a 12 volt wire. The old wire, if it is still there does not put out 12 volts. Hope this helps. Rick,

what's a lead? sorry, still learning.

what's a lead? sorry, still learning.

Hot wire or the wire going to the electric choke. The stock electric choke, if I remember correctly, is wired through the Oil Pressure sending unit. So initially it's not going to see the 12v potential. As the oil pressure builds it should be there and that wire/lead should be sufficient.

You'r going to need an adapter to mout the carb it is a square bore and the Q-jets are Spread bore. Or the Q-Jet had two large bad holes and two small upfront. A Square bore all of the venturies are the same size. You might need to dig up some connections for the Trans Linkage, the Cruise control and the accelerator possibly.

If your old Q-Jet is electronic your going to have other things to deal with, if you have a on board computer, I think is what they called those first devices.

Good Luck.

Thanks, I don't think I'm going to have too many of those problems. It's going into a 1970 with idiot lights (so from reading in this forum i don't even have an oil pressure sending unit) and I obviously don't have cruise control.

http://store.summitracing.com/default.asp?Ntt=350-2696&x=0&y=0&Ntk=KeywordSearch&DDS=1&searchinresults=false&N=0&target=egnsearch.asp
this is the adapter right?

Yep that is the one.

You do have an oil pressure sending unit. All Automobiles do that is what operates the Dummy light. However, after looking your engine originally came with a Hot air choke or Divorced Choke. So you will need to locate a device that comes on when the ignition key is on, not an accessory "on" lead but Key "On". Find that line, there is one on the fuse box, run a single wire to the (+) connection on the Electric choke. That will make the choke operate properly. If you hook it up to an Accessory key on wire then it's basically going to be drawing current all the time the key is on even with the motor off and you just listening to the radio. It's not going to kill anything but it will cause the choke heater to operate and in cold weather it can make for difficult running if the engine is cold and the choke is already open.

The choke operates like this, if you don't know, it has a "Fast Idle Cam" that gets engaged when you step on the acceletator pedal. Step on it once all the way to the floor before you start it in the morning. The choke closes the butterfly on the primary side. The fast idle cam is engaged and the car or truck will then idle at about 1200 RPM or should. Let it warm up about 5 minutes in the spring summer and possibly longer if your in cold climat. Another quick step and the choke disengages.

Good Luck'

Edit

Almost forgot, ground the other side of the choke.

When you say Key "on" device you mean like the oil sending pressure unit you mentioned previously? Sorry if I'm a little slow to catch on. I'm still not too hip with car lingo.

Yes you could possibly use that. When I say "Key On" get a bug light tester or some method of checking for power. check the empty connection in the fuse box with (plug ins) there are generally a few to choose from. Like my 76 has two open connection that have constant power with or without the key in the "On" or Run position. One that has power only when the key is in the on or Run position and one that has power when the key is on or in the accessory position.

You can use the one that has power on it when the ignition key switch is on. Or you can find a device closer, under the hood already, that when the ignition key is switched on it has power and use that with a 3 way tap. For instance, if you had an HEI Ignition then it has a red wire going to the dist cap that has power only when the key switch is turned on, you could tap off that one and use it. I think you'd have one on a coil also and could probably use that one too.

The plugs in the fuse box will just look like empty spade connections. I made up a 3 ended pig tail for my Key On power because one goes to my CD, one for my Electrical Fan Relay and something else. I also made a 3 wire pig tail for my accessory plug. My Electric door locks are hooked into a constant 12V source in the fuse box.

Did this help any?

Yes, Tons. I get it now. heh. Sorry you had to explain so much. It's much appreciated though.

That is what we're all here for to help one another and Brag and Tell Lies about our Rides! :D

The Edelbrock/AFB electric choke carbs are really wide and don't fit under stock (or most after market) drop-base air cleaners. If you have an SS hood you will probably have room for the spacer and an air cleaner with less drop than stock. In any case, be sure to measure clearance before closing the hood. Personally, I wouldn't bother with an adapter and instead buy a square bore intake. Even the most basic low rise after market units will be a big improvement over the stock intake/adapter combo.

The Edelbrock/AFB electric choke carbs are really wide and don't fit under stock (or most after market) drop-base air cleaners. If you have an SS hood you will probably have room for the spacer and an air cleaner with less drop than stock. In any case, be sure to measure clearance before closing the hood. Personally, I wouldn't bother with an adapter and instead buy a square bore intake. Even the most basic low rise after market units will be a big improvement over the stock intake/adapter combo.

Agreed.

yeah i was already thinking about buy a new intake, any suggestions?