hey, i'm trying to set the timing on my 79 350. when i first started it was at a little over 12 degrees. i think it is idleing a little high though, could the advance mechanism be kicking in too soon to cause the timing to be too high. i was told the timing should be at 0 degrees, but when i went to Advance they told me 6 degrees. it would start to die when i got close to around 4 or 2 degrees. also, if my vacume is too high, could that be causing the timing advance to be coming in too soon? when trying to set the timing last night, it seemed to run best around 10 degrees.
a little more info about my engine- stock 79 350 from a camaro, except it now has a two barrel on it.

All of the factors you mention could be contributing to the fast idle, plus one that you didn't mention (a vacuum leak).

Personally I'd eliminate the non-timing possibilities, by process of elimination, in the following order:

1st, check the mechanical stuff:
Make sure it isn't simply that the carb's idle screw isn't screwed in too far or that the air conditioning's fast idle cam isn't kicking in.
Make sure the throttle plates on the carb are closing all the way. Verify by looking down the carb barrels with a flashlight.
Make sure the automatic choke's fast idle cam isn't kicking in too soon.
Make sure the throttle linkage isn't too short, holding the carb open a little.

Next comes the vacuum stuff. Make sure there isn't a vacuum leak somewhere. It doesn't take much. There are a number of places to check, but the most likely are vacuum hoses that are routed to the wrong vacuum port, missing, fallen off, or lose and or cracked and leaking. Check to make sure all of the vacuum ports on the carb and on the manifold are connected or plugged. If your car has one, check to make sure the EGR valve is closing properly. If you don't find anything suspicious, Check to see if the vacuum line to the trans (if your car has a vacuum modulator) is leaking. You can also temporarily plug the vacuum line going to the power brake booster to see if that's leaking.

If all this fails to identify anything, the next thing I'd check is an intake manifold gasket leak. To check this, with the engine running spray just a little starter fluid or degreaser fluid at the manifold gaskets, the EGR gasket, the carb gaskets, etc. See if you notice any increase in engine RPM. Any surge in RPM's could be an indication of a leaky manifold gasket. While doing this be very careful not to spray too mutch. This stuff is flamable and you don't want a fire under the hood.

If all this turns up empty, then I'd be fairly sure the problem's in the distributor or with the engine timing.

To avoid redundancy and spare my poor typing fingers, read the last 6-12 posts in this forum for some great advice on how to set the timing and or hunt for distributor related problems and then let us all know how you made out!

i got a tachometer yesterday and installed it today, but apparently something isn't right with my wiring because it isn't working, hopefuly from that i can tell what the rmps are actually at. i know it isn't linkage or the idle skrew or something like that because i have to have the idle skrew turned in further or it will die, it won't run at a lower rmp without dieing. i don't think any vacume lines are in bad shape or anything but i'll go through and check them. what is an EGR valve, oh, is it that thing on the side of the intake?.. i was told its some emisions crap so i just plugged the line, so i guess it wouldn't be that. and it isn't the a/c thing cause unfortunately i don't have a/c. hopefully i'll figure it out, maybe it is idleing at the right speed and the loudness of straight headers is making me think its at a higher rpm. thanks for the help

Make sure the vacuum hose going to the distributer from the carb doesn't have vacuum at idle. The vacuum should kick in on acceleration. This too, should help you set the timing. And I believe it's 8 BTDC.

so when its idleing i should be able to take the vacume line off the distributer and feal no vacume?.. i'll try it thanks

Yea actually, there should be 2 ports on the front of the carb, besides the main one that goes to you pcv valve. Unplug each small one and see which one DOESN'T have vacuum at idle. That is the one that goes to your distributor. Plug the other.
If this is wrong, or you have a different kind of carb, they will correct me. LOL

ok well that answered some of my other questions that i posted in another forum that nobody answered. it was called gas line goin dry in engine topics, it was about what hoses should go where. i have a 2 barrel and there are two ports at the front of the carb, both are plugged. the hose for the distibutor advance is coming from the intake manifold i believe, i might be wrong. there is also a larger hose from the bottom front of the carb that runs to the choke thing (lean / rich). i'm starting to get the idea that who ever worked on this engine before skrewed it all up. if you can tell me how to put a picture from my computer on here i can show yall a picture of what it actually looks like. all this together might be the cause of my ruff runnin idle. oh i finally got my tach workin, i must have done some bad wiring with those buttend connectors so i used wire nuts and it all works better. i really appreciate all yalls help i'm gunna have to contribute to this site sometime, if my car don't stop taking all my money, good lord and gas!

Wire nuts are for household wiring not on a vehicle.