for an '86 Elky, 4.3L V6
i read through the manual, it said that i need to raise the engine up using an engine hoist to get enough clearance
ok, i don't have an engine hoist, and since i'll be doing this in the parking lot, i'll need the best shadetree way of doing this possible
they also mentioned the possiblility of putting wooden blocks between the engine block and the frame, that sounds like a viable option, i just need to find some wooden blocks

anyone got any solutions?
i've got all i need to do to change it (i think, new gasket, and a sealer is all i'll need, right?)

when i change it out, i'm also thinking about tossing a few small magnets in the bottom, anyone think of any reasons why i shouldn't? if none, where should i put them in the pan? near the oil pickup? as far from it as i can?

Call around to some tool rental dealers and inquire how much it would cost to rent a hoist. Using a tree may be dangerous if thats what you are planning. As far as magnets in the engine, I don't recommend it, even though it is magnetized and will probably not move, I don't think that anything not permanently secured is just asking for trouble. Why not spend a couple of bucks and get a magnetic oil pan drain plug (bolt). When you do oil changes you'll be able to see if there are any metal shavings collecting in the pan. With a magnet laying in your pan, you'll never be able to check for metal shavings without dropping the pan again. When I was in the military, they used to have automotive hobby shops on base that you could work on your car, doesn't Andrews AFB have one anymore? There was a really nice one at NAWC Patuxent River MD. when I was stationed there and they had a hoist, it's only about an hours drive if your still in Maryland and at Andrews. Just a thought. :)

Look at this link http://www.chevytalk.org/threads/showflat.php?Cat=&Board=UBB64&Number=476448&Forum=UBB64&Words=magnets&Match=Entire%20Phrase&Searchpage=0&Limit=25&Old=3months&Main=476448&Search=true#Post476448

Read the first reply. Awesome magnets. I don't see how they could hurt anything as long as they are epoxied in place, as was mentioned.

I know I'll get a lot of jeers but it worked for me.
You'll need three pieces of 2x4. (2) approx 3.5 inches long and the third 6 inches long.
First remove and place the distributor cap away from the fire wall.
Next loosen and remove the nuts from the engine mount through bolts.
Place a bottle jack as close to the oil pan as you can behind the crankshaft pullies. place the 6" peice of wood between the pullies and bottle jack. Jack this up until there is no slack. Remove the mount through bolts. carefully continue to raise the engine until there enough room at the mounts to place the shorter wooden blocks in the mount area(watch rear clearance). Lower the engine on to the blocks, and remove jack.
This worked for me on a 79 EL with a small block. pan came out with relative ease.