GRRRRRRRRRR.

I have zero luck with A6 AC compressors. I drive my Elky like maybe 1000 miles a year and still have bad luck with these particular compressors. Now I have a front seal leak and of course the front bearing (not the clutch bearing either) has started to scream once in a while.

The first time I heard it I thought I had unconsciously done a burnout but then it hit me that I was still in park..... :P

Anyway, I'm sick of this but live in AZ so I have to fix it (Again). It seems like I have to replace a compressor every 5years or so. Not very fair considering thats about 6000 miles over the past 5 years. But enough of that, what needs to be done must be done.

Now, The question is this. I have the belt off, the compressor wiring disconnected so that I wouldn't blow compressor chunks into my AC lines when it finally did die. I try to head off these kinds of things...

Has anyone here done a conversion from the A6 to the Sanden or Pancake style compressor? I already have done the 134 conversion and the lines are newer teflon lined. Condenser and evaporator are fine and the unit was still blowing cold air it was just the periodic screaming that worried me.

I am guessing that the AC line junction block won't fit the back of a different compressor. But what about fitting the new brackets and such. I know that MArch makes kits but there's got to be a better way than to spend a bunch of money on anodized brackets and chrome compressors. I can make turnbuckle type brackets if need be.

I have a 4th gen so were talking mostly 70's technology with the exception of a high pressure switch wired into the clutch circuit when I did the 134 conversion. It's basically an 80's S10 setup.

By the way, When I did the conversion everything was replaced except the condenser which was cleaned and pressure tested.

I just don't trust the A6 anymore so any insights appreciated.

8-)

Sorry to hear about your problems with the A6 compressor. I've had nothing but good luck over the years with this compressor and even now I have two vehicles with A6 compressors. It's big, ugly and heavy but many old time AC guys consider it one of the best compressors GM ever made. As far as lines and fittings for the Sanden conversion I would contact Old Air or Vintage Air for the appropriate fittings and lines. Good luck.

For brackets I would check out Alan Grove Components:

www.alangrovecomponents.com[/url]

Thanks for the replies.

Yeah, I've heard the A6's are supposed to be bulletproof but most people don't get more than 4 years out of one in AZ.

I installed this one new and dry when I did the 134 conversion but it may be that it just isn't quite the right compressor for this refrigerant. I know it's harder to compress 134 than R12. I already had to change the AC clutch on the compressor about 2 years ago. It was caused by my clutch fan failing which allowed too much head pressure in the compressor. That's probably where the problem started.

It may also be partly my fault because I only drive this thing on weekends and the air isn't turned on that much. That means I'm probably not ciruculating the lubricant as much as it would like to be.

I was even turning it on in the winter months every few weeks just to try to circulate the refrigerant and coolant. It was a very cold 30 miles but I thought it might help the longevity. I do the same thing with the heater in the summer to keep the heater core from developing any leaks. That's almost harder to bear than the AC in the winter when it's 110 and you turn the heater on full blast.

Thanks for the links. I'll check it out. :-D

compressor should always be prefilled with oil and shaft turned at least a dozen times before mounting. Run AC even in winter, but move the temperature control to heat \ hot. Compressor still comes on, and circulates but you will not be frozen. mounting block for A6 bolts up to late model compressors with no change needed escept for o rings. so using a later compressor is no problem.

THanks for the advice. Compressor was bought "dry" and then prefilled and rotated as you described in your post. I got a dry one because I knew the R12 oil and the 134 oil didn't mix. I knew of some cases where someone reused a condenser during the conversion without cleaning it out and ended up with jelly like stuff in the lines. I guess the 134 oil isn't compatible with linseed oil.

BTW, The horrible sound I was hearing turned out to be belt slippage on my new chrome alternator's pulley.

Compressor seems fine now with a new belt on it and a little "roughening" on my Alternator pulley.

I guess we are all subject to an attack of the stupids now and again.. :)

It just really sounded like it was coming from the compressor but it wasn't especially after I cut the AC belt and still heard the sound after a mile or so of driving. You'd think the dim headlights at the traffic light would have been a hint!

:)

I dunno about back in the '70s; but at least during the '80s, running the defroster would turn on the compressor so the AC/heater would put out dry air to help evaporate condensation on the windshield. Try it and see.

1970-72 set up did not turn on AC compressor in defrost mode. only in AC modes.

Mine does turn on the compressor for heat and defrost. It just doesn't seem to be working as hard as it does when I have the Cold AC on.

:)

Is it critical to change hoses when you convert from R12 to 134a??

Yes it's critical on many levels. First if your AC hoses are over 5 years old they need to be replaced. I've asked this of a few different AC guys and there's no question about it.
Second, R134A requires the hoses to have an inner coating of teflon because 134A can migrate past a standard hose made for R12. They are also a bit heavier hose to accomodate higher pressures present in a 134A system. Make sure your AC compressor can handle the extra strain as well. You can have your AC hoses rebuilt using your old end fittings and new hose between them by the way. Also be sure to get new O-rings for the manifolds and get the system completely flushed out including the condenser. Have to replace the Accumulator too.

Good luck with the project!

Mine worked great and blew ice cold for 5 years before my A6 compressor froze up today.

Funny how your message coincided with my AC going out. 8O

I sure hate to disagree but I have to relate my experiences with R134A conversions. I have done many, many conversions using the original hoses and on some vehicles with well over 10 years on the conversion the original hoses are still working just fine. Just based on my personal experience.

I'll have to agree with Mrapii, changing the hoses is not even recommended during a conversion. Obviously if the hoses are in poor condition it would be wise to replace them, but other wise it is not a necessity to replace hoses. Plus having someone "rebuild" them could be more costly then simply replacing them. Of course is no replacement are available then you have little choice.
Mike

Good feed back thanks much! Sounds like you could go either way.