hey i'm taring down my v6 to clean it up and replace all gaskets and was woundering how the lifters come out, are they sopposed to just slide all the way through?, they seem to catch about half way through, do i just need to tap them on through with a hammer? also if i were taking the valce train out of the cylinder heads what special tools do i need to do so, and put it back together? what special tool if any for removing and installing the whole bottom end of the motor (pistons, crank, ect.)?
thanks for any help. also how do you remove the cam bearings and crank bearing?
P.s.- cause i know yall are gunna say somethin about this 229 v6; i have a brand new crate 350 in my el camino, the v6 i just wanna put in somethin small, maybe a dune buggy or somethin'.

The lifters come out through the top...you have to remove the intake manifold. No real special tools are needed except a gear puller to remove the vibration dampner from the crank in disassembly, however a camshft tool helps to pull the cam out. Also to remove the pistons from the block will more than likey require a ridge reamer. Assembly requires the the use of a special tool to install new camshaft bearings...most people have them installed by a machine shop when they have the block cleaned, bored, new freeze plugs installed or whatever else is needed. Rings need to be gapped using a feeler gauge, and then installed on the pistons. the pistons are then installed into the block using a ring compressor. Before installing the crank, it should be checked for tolerances and machined if necessary. If you have not done this before...get a book with plenty of good illustrations and go for it...it's a good way to learn. You need one with all the torque specs in it. You'll need to borrow, rent or buy and engine stand also, they're not that expensive. You will also need a torque wrench for assembly. Each engines requirements vary as to what needs to be done and building a high performance engine requires a bit more if you expect it to withstand the abuse from idiots like me. I'm sure I forgot something, but I'm old so I have an excuse.

Oh yeah, an oil pump primer tool to prime the engine prior to starting it. I use an old distributor shaft. I knew I'd forget something...what were we talking about anyway? 8)

thanks, i finished taking the engine apart this mornin, except the lifters, whcih i'll do in a while. the only thing i need is a ring compressor i guess, i have enrything else. i also just called some machine shop and it would be like $100 bucks to clean everthing and get cam bearings installed. how do i remove the valves from the heads?, do i need a valve spring compresser, if my engine only has 56,000 miles on it do you think i need to hone the cylinders? could i do that myself? i know its a lotta questions but thanks for the help.

Yes, you would need a valve spring compressor. I suggest when you take the block in you have them check to see if you can get by with just honing the block...also it probably wouldn't cost too much to have them do a valve job if it's necessary.

for the oil pump primer the trick is......a drill with a really long extension and flat head screw driver on the end and turn it clockwise and let go after a while then you hear the oil being circulated and "burping" as i called it! haha

-Anduh

Yes, you would need a valve spring compressor. I suggest when you take the block in you have them check to see if you can get by with just honing the block...also it probably wouldn't cost too much to have them do a valve job if it's necessary.

honing the cylinders is easy, u can buy the tool at napa for about $20.....

for the oil pump primer the trick is......a drill with a really long extension and flat head screw driver on the end and turn it clockwise and let go after a while then you hear the oil being circulated and "burping" as i called it! haha

-AnduhDoing this will only get oil to the lower part of the engine, it will not bring oil up to the valve train components. The oil passage for the valve train comes up the back of the block to the valve train by passing thru the distributor shaft hole, if the hole is not sealed by either a old distributor or an oil pump priming tool you will not get the oil thru the upper passages and to the lifters and rockers.

Regarding the valve springs and compressor, be a little careful to not get the valves mismatched with their holes. (Sharpie marker or similar works good) If the valves/seats need work you haven't lost much. If they don't, then putting the valves back in the wrong holes will mess up the fit and you'll be doing a valve job in a few months anyway.

Also, those valve springs can hurt you if you're not careful while using the compressor. It wouldn't hurt to wear eye protection.

thanks for the info, i made a engine priming tool out of an old dist, just ground the gears off and welded a bolt to the top of it so i could use a drill to turn it.