As most of you folks are more knowledgable than I on engine issues, I am hoping for some helpful info on Caddy engines.

The guy I bought my 64 Camino from is selling alot of "stuff." one of the things he is selling is a 71-73 500 ci engine Cadelac engine. He's offered the engine and trans for $400. The engine was gone through and was started dry and blew a bearing. He thinks it's just a bearing issue and there is nothing else wrong.

I would like to know if this is a decent price and is it too much engine for the car. Are there any pitfalls in the installation?

Input, as always, is greatly appreciated!!

You are buying a "pig in a poke" if the engine has a "blown-bearing". I would steer clear if I were you. As far as installing a Caddy engine in a 5th Gen? Personally I frown on cross-breeding, if you think you need a mega-sized motor install a Chevy big block.

Having just built one of those big dudes I can tell you parts for them are not real cheap---however they can be reasonable and 400 bones for an engine and transmission is pretty cheap. Let me let you in on a few things I found out while doing my engine. These son-of-a-guns make torque by the truckload--something our trucks need and they weigh only 25 pounds more than a small block chevy--75 pounds less than a big block. There are speed parts available reasonable and you would have a unique and very fast truck. With modest selection of parts you can have an engine making 350 hp and 500 lb/ft of torque running on regular and smooth as silk. These folks make their living selling parts for and racing these engines ----lots of info even if you don't get that extreme with it: http://www.cad500parts.com/
Myself I used 455 buick pistons (12 1/2 thousands bigger bore than a caddy and can be had forged)---and 455 Oldsmobile rods in my engine with the early small chamber heads to get 11.7 to 1 compression. I got the Crane Cams kit for the engine that comes with the cam, lifters, springs, retainers and keepers and an Edelbrock 2115 intake. four wheel drive Ford truck 460 headers can be redrilled to fit these guys and fit nice and snug against the block. with some minor pocket porting on the heads and an 850 cfm carb it made 630HP and 680lb/ft torque at 5200 rpm---thats big numbers for such a low rpm guys..............Dan

Dan is correct about everything he said... i have one of these "pigs" in my 74 Eldorado.

I have seen a picture of one placed in a G-body!! Cutlass I believe....

Sounds like a good project and the price, you can't go wrong.

Thanks for the feedback. I had mentioned this deal to some friends and they seemed think it was worth doing, but they also know the seller needs some cash for a trailer and I wanted to make sure they weren't just helping a friend.

As for "cross breading," I think as long as it is in the GM family I'm happy. I would never put a MOPAR or a Ford in there. Also, my neighbor has been trying to find a decent big block in our area (SE Arizona) and has had some major problems. Seems that they all have more problems then he wants to deal with. As a teen, I remember being able to buy 454 blocks cheap.

.......and they weigh only 25 pounds more than a small block chevy--75 pounds less than a big block. ......... it made 630HP and 680lb/ft torque at 5200 rpm---thats big numbers for such a low rpm.....

Gee. That's more HP and Torque than my modified 454's putting out and if I still had cast iron heads and manifolds, would be 75 pounds lighter than my engine!

In my mind, that's a very attractive incentive to deviate from "pure Chevy" while still staying in the GM family.

You could always rebuild it stock, but if you want the extra performance, are you "engine savvy" to do the kinds of things like old coot did to his?

As far as nicknames, how about "El Chevillac"? Or, "El Deville"?

The crank and or rods could be toast (scored too deeply to be reground). You might want to calculate replacement costs into your "worst case" rebuid estimate before purchasing.

You didn't mention the transmission. I'm assuming you have his word that it works. If it's the one that mated to the engine originally (a Caddy TH400?) and if the engine doesn't work out, probably has some value by itself. If so, your $400 investment wouldn't likely be a total loss.

yoiu are correct it should be a th-400 sitting behind that pig!!!!

Can you just imagine what 680 lb/ft or torque and a TH400 would do sitting in a 64 Elky with some huge MT ETs stuffed under its rear?

You just pushed my Hypo adrenaline button and I'm not even the one with the opportunity!

8) 8)

MNUNN, oh yeah thats the idea----I'm using an 85 Olds body and painting it to look like a Hurst Olds and hope to have the weight down to about 2700 lbs by the time we fininsh cutting and caging------Can you say deep in the 9's---at least thats the goal-----Oh and by the way, my same combo with the later large chamber heads would make about 10 to 1 compression and with the long stroke (4.31 inches) could be run on premium ok probably only be down 75 ponies or so and really should not lose much torque-also the same combo with the 472 crankshaft would drop the compression even further----I have not done the math on that yet but it would probably be in the 8.5 to 9 range---just a guess right now---------Dan

8) Would definitly be a beast off the line! All you have to do is get it to hook up! Definitly would require a stout rear end! :cool:

On Sunday, we pulled the engine on the stand and started our "inspection." My neighbor and I looked at all the bearings attached to the crankshaft and they looked okay. No metal shavings, but they may have been torqued down incorrectly. Some nuts came loose way too easily, other with some difficulty.

Have not pulled the heads, but when we had the engine upside-down we could see that the cylinder walls still were cross-hatched. Also, since we had to use some muscle to spin the engine, we think the pistons and rings are as fresh as advertised.

I must admit to one mistake, though. As I was showing the motor to a friend, he noticed that the oil pan sump was in front and would interfere with the cross member. So I need to find the rear sump oil pan. Oh well, what's a little work to get all that power!!

If you have a hard time finding one, a hack saw, some sheet metal and a TIG welder could work wonders. (You'd need to move the oil pump pickup too, of course)

Great news on the cylinders. Maybe with any luck all you'll have to do is polish the crank journals and install new bearings with plenty of assembly lube. Before assuming that though, make sure the oiling system (including path through the oil filter) is all free and operating as it should.

Best!

Oh yeah forgot to mention that----an oil pan and pickup tube off an el dorado will work its a rear sump----sorry about that................Dan

Just in case anyone is interested---look what I found http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=8039227203&ssPageName=MERC_VIC_RSCC_Pr4_PcY_BIN_Stores_IT


Dan