Anyone ever moved the battery to the smuggler's compartment? I'm thinking of doing that. It probably means making the compartment deeper by welding in a battery box and venting it out the bottom. It might be a little close to the exhaust pipes but I think it might work. Then I'd probably want Dzus fasteners on the smuggler's cover with a weatherstrip that can take many openings...

Thoughts?

Not so long ago, I advised against it, but some of the battery boxes are now very good, sealed and vented well. Don't understand what you would have to weld. Follow sound electrical principles. Run at least #2 cable and run a seperate ground all the way back to the block. Many only ground to the frame, or worse, the body. However, the engine block is the grounding center of any well designed auto electrical system. Extra grounds are just that - extra.

Do it right. You'll probably like it. Keep us posted.

Take care.

I remember seeing photos somewhere from a completed project just like this. Try doing some searches in the forums and galleries.

I appreciate the replies. The reason I think I need to weld is that I have top post battery and this requires a tall battery box. When measuring the distance between the bottom of the smuggler's compartment and the lid, it seems a tad bit too tight. So I was going to cut a square hole in the floor the size of the battery box and box it in about 1 1/2" lower. That's why I am concerned about the exhaust clearance.

That's very good advice on the grounding cable. I think I will get some gounding cable from the welding supply store and solder on lugs, attaching to cable to the frame.

8) I've been checking my past issues of Super Chevy. A while back there was a guy who hinged the smugglers box added a seal and fastened it down with zeus fasteners. Had his battery relocated to there. Was a pretty neat set up. :cool:

I've got my electric fuel pump mounted in there on the passenger side, had been debating mounting the battery too, but decided that possible fuel fumes and potential for spark created enough BOOM potential to keep the battery in the tray up front. I am considering adding a supplemental fuel tank there later for good quality (race) fuel, but only if I can do it in a way that I don't have to hack anything and it's not noticeable. I do ocassionally carry parts in the bed of mine and would hate to tear off a filler neck or something.

Devin

Thanks, but you may want to read my post again. The battery should not ground primarily to the frame. It goes to the block. Tattoo it on your arm so you always remember: Battery to block, Frame to block, Body to block.

If you see any wire going from a battery terminal to a frame or body, notice that it is a smaller secondary ground, backup, or computer related. There are others too and you can't have too many grounds. Yet the primary ones are as I said above. This is one of the main areas of deterioration in old electrical systems. Hope this helps a little.

Take care.

From a weight balance standpoint it seems like a great idea. Is there any reason it could not be done using an AGM (Absorbed Glass Mat) battery? They are sealed, tolerate higher charging voltages than gel cells and work great as starting batteries. They are primarily used in boats, so places like West Marine carry em. You can even run them on their side or upside down with no leakage and no fumes.......

Suppose not.

http://www.boschautoparts.co.uk/pcBatt9.asp?c=2&d=1

Take care.

I went to the link that Bowtie posted and from what I read about the AGMs, they seem to be gaining rapid acceptance in the auto industry. I think that will be one of my next mods.

Many of the reproduction Delco script batteries are AGM. I've had one for 2 years now, probably one of the first ones built, no acid bubbling out the vents any more and like you said even if it where to crack open-no leaks.

I'll bite: Is the smugglers box behind the drivers' seat? These elkys are loaded with hidey-holes! :lol:

I thought I was doing good to find the panel behind the D.S. kick panel...