I have to replace my ignition starter switch and have a couple of questions..

I have to put the actuator rod back onto the lock cylinder end of the switch, is there anything else that needs to come off other than the steering wheel to replace the rod??

When I put the wheel back on; is there any trick/tips to gettin it back on without losing my cool....

the shop manual is kinda ragedy when it comes to this stuff...

8) I don't think you have to take the rod out to remove the switch. :?

I didn't take the rod out, had no intention on pulling the wheel....

The rod fell out when i took the switch out....

I know i have to pull the steering wheel just not sure about anything else....


Anybody woke yet?

You will need two tools: a steering wheel puller and a lock plate puller. You can rent them from AA or AZ or purchase both for about $25.

Next to an automatic transmission, I think the steering column is the most complex part of an automobile made during and after the 1970's.

You may have to remove the column from the vehicle to get to the rack and rod assembly that is acutated by the lock cylinder.

Do you have a column shift? I have about 20 or so steps to the the rack and lock bolt out of the column! 8O

PM sent with another idea and steps to disassemble.

PM sent with another idea and steps to disassemble.


Thanks dude, didn't get the pm.... but here's the latest....

the idiot that owned it before me broke a bolt, where a bolt would go for the steering wheel puller, so that leaves bolt hole and , i might use my dremel to turn it into a screw and take it out....

I ended up pulling the column out; maybe i can maneuver the rod using a small light (lol).....

Any ideas... i even went to 3 j-yards and no luck they were either all busted up or were gone already

any ideas....

Content of PM:

Try removing the lower trim ring and inserting the rod into the rack from below. It that fails then...

You will need two tools: a steering wheel puller and a lock plate puller. You can rent them from AA or AZ or purchase both for about $25.

Next to an automatic transmission, I think the steering column is the most complex part of an automobile made during and after the 1970's.

You may have to remove the column from the vehicle to get to the rack and rod assembly that is acutated by the lock cylinder.

Steps:

1) Remove the steering wheel using the steering wheel puller.
2) Remove the the lock plate cover using a screwdriver.
3) Using lock plate puller depress the lock plate slightly and remove the retaining ring.
4) Remove the lock plate.
5) Slide the turn signal cancelling cam and upper bearing reload spring off the steering shaft.
6) Slide the thrust washer off the steering shaft.
7) Remove the turn signal lever. (Maybe attaching screws or preasure fit. I have a '79 remember! Noted with "*" hereafter).
8) Push in hazard warning switch and unscrew the knob.
9) Remove the switch actuator arm mounting screws and the arm. *
10) Remove the three switch mounting screws and the four mounting bracket screws and the bracket from the jacket. Pull the connector out of the bracket on the jacket. Remove the protector from the jacket and strip the wires from it.
11) Pull the switch straight up being careful not to snap the wire connector in the housing. Taping the wires near the connector may help.
12) Set the lock cylinder to the run position and remove the lock retaining screw and remove the lock cylinder.
13) Pull the buzzer switch straight out of the housing using a paper clip in the loop end of the wedge spring.

At this point you may be able to reinsert the ignition actuator rod back into the rack and steering lock bolt. If not remove the column from the vehicle.

14) Remove the dimmer switch and seperate the switch from the rod.
15) Position the ignition switch two detents from full "up" in the off unlocked position.
16) Drive out the shift lever pin and remove the shift lever.
17) Remove the four screws attaching the upper housing to the jacket and remove the upper housing assembly.
18) Remove the thrust cup and bearing retainer.
19) Remove the dimmer switch actuator rod.
20) Remove the rack and lock bolt.

You should be ready at this point to reverse everything after hooking the ignition switch rod back to the rack and feeding it down the column. You may be able to hook it up from the bottom side, however.

PM sent with another idea and steps to disassemble.

...
the idiot that owned it before me broke a bolt, where a bolt would go for the steering wheel puller, so that leaves bolt hole and , i might use my dremel to turn it into a screw and take it out....
...

The steering wheel puller doesn't bolt into the shaft just two holes on the wheel itself and presses down on the shaft. The lock plate puller will bolt to the center hole of the shaft and presses down on the lock plate. I think I am remembering correctly on this.

Edit: Wrong... the lock plate puller has a sleeve that screws down on the shaft just like the steering wheel retaining bolt.

PM sent with another idea and steps to disassemble.

...
the idiot that owned it before me broke a bolt, where a bolt would go for the steering wheel puller, so that leaves bolt hole and , i might use my dremel to turn it into a screw and take it out....
...

The steering wheel puller doesn't bolt into the shaft just two holes on the wheel itself and presses down on the shaft. The lock plate puller will bolt to the center hole of the shaft and presses down on the lock plate. I think I am remembering correctly on this.

Edit: Wrong... the lock plate puller has a sleeve that screws down on the
shaft just like the steering wheel retaining bolt.


john, thats what i'm talking about... one of the holes on the wheel itself has a broken bolt in it.....

...
john, thats what i'm talking about... one of the holes on the wheel itself has a broken bolt in it.....

Me thinks we must be brothers as we have the same luck! :lol:

8) You could use a rubber mallet and hit the wheel from the back side alternating side to side or if the column was still in thread the nut on not quite flush, have one person pull up on the wheel then with a deadblow hammer or a blok of wood and a hammer give the shaft one good rap to jar the wheel loose. Just make sure the guy holding the wheel don't smack hisself in the face with the wheel when it comes off! :( Just don't beat on the shaft too hard. :cool:

8) You could use a rubber mallet and hit the wheel from the back side alternating side to side or if the column was still in thread the nut on not quite flush, have one person pull up on the wheel then with a deadblow hammer or a blok of wood and a hammer give the shaft one good rap to jar the wheel loose. Just make sure the guy holding the wheel don't smack hisself in the face with the wheel when it comes off! :( Just don't beat on the shaft too hard. :cool:

Beating on the shaft may sheer the column collapse pins. They are nylon pins designed to allow the steering wheel shaft to collapse in the event of an accident.

You can try an "easy out". Or add another set of holes for the puller. The steering wheel mounting plate is about 5/8 inches thick.

well i hate to say but we might be brothers...lol

i ended up flipping it over and i slit the rubber collar, i found the how rod goes back in and i have it position, when i turn the key it moves back and forth like it should,,,

i want to hookup the switch now so that it doesn't fall back out....

what position should the switch be in and should i be able to fell the tension when i put the key in the run position.....

I would like to button this up tonight guys.....

thanks for the fast replies...

Rotate the key to off-lock and verify that the steering wheel is locked then move the ignition switch to it's hightest detent. Verify that everything works before you button it up and put it back in the Elky.

I went to the j-yard this morning and got a new (well not new) but, it came out of cutlass that was in beautiful condition,, i;m guessing an older person had the car .

a buddy of mine is gonna swap out the lock cylinder and steering wheel for me.

Hopefully, i should be good to go, this evening or tomorrow...

Thanks for all the help!!!

Let us know how it works out! :-D

All is well thus far....

The column i got was cracked a little around the collar but, is nice and tight, and will serve it's purpose....

The swap was so smooth, it took this guy about 1/2 hr...
i hooked it back up and turned the key, i flooded it out again....LOL

because i forgot to hook up the distrib wire.... :D :D

When i hooked it up , it almost started, got a little spit and fire out of the carb.....

i pulled the plugs to see if they were wet and they were not wet....

Called it quits after i got the fire through the carb, just glad to have the column stuff behind me and now I have spark, and power to my switch....

should i take the fuel line off the carb to drain the excess gas??? :D

i hooked it back up and turned the key, i flooded it out again....
should i take the fuel line off the carb to drain the excess gas??? No, not necessary, let it sit for awhile and the gas will evaporate but, is the motor timed correctly? If the timing is off it would cause it to backfire through the carb...be careful you don't cause the carb to catch fire!

it could be off a little, i'll check it again tomorrow...

i brought it up to tdc using a piston stop but i didn't bring it to zero, i brought ti about 16 degrees according to the timing line ,(which is usually where i run it)....


should BOTH valve be closed (springs look uncompressed), on the #1 cylinder?

I think my balancer or the marker is off because when both valves are closed, the timing line on the balancer is not at zero...

I'm going to pull the valve cover tomorrow and make sure both valves are closed and then make a mark on the balancer...

is this the right thing to do?

I did some research on timing marks, balancers etc....

since my motor is out of a 77 chevy c10, these trucks had different balancers and timing pointers in the straight up position on the covers.... my tdc is straight up and not in the 2 or 3 o'clock position as the aftermarket pointer suggests....

Never thought I'd be happy about being retarded 8) 8)

My goodness! Were you thinking #1 TDC was at 2 or 3 o'clock a.k.a. 60 or 90 degrees? 8O

well according to my balancer on this truck motor... the original timing pointer was on the front ctr of the timing cover....

it didn't occur to me when i bought a new timing pointer...

anyway,,,, i tried to start her again today, with the timing at tdc #1, with valve cover off, to make sure it was at tdc.... it cranked and cranked, i had a lil spark but oviously not enough, i gas it a little gas then the lil flame came to visit...LOL....after being positive my timing was right, i brought her back to tdc again, pulled my cap, and it point at the number 1..

i pulled the distributor and took it to the parts store, the wires from the pickup were frayed and broken, my bushings were shot....

the guy at the store put bushings and new weights on for me, and i bought a new pick up....i got it all disassembled and cleaned up, and i'm gonna put it back together night, and see if this does the trick.. :cool:

Well if anyone is interested.... :cool: :cool:

I've been up and running since this am...

What a difference the pickup coil,weights and bushings made.....

8) Good to hear that it's running again! :cool:

Well if anyone is interested.... :cool: :cool:

I've been up and running since this am...

What a difference the pickup coil,weights and bushings made.....

Am interested! Good to here thnigs are better than normal! :-D

Thanks guys,,,,

I'm just wish i didn't waste so much time for something so trivial....

Trial and error I guess :cool: :cool:

BTW...

I think my timing might have been out of whack even though it ran pretty good before,, but i found TDC by sticking my finger over the hole, it worked like a charm....DEFINTIELY EASIER TO FIRE IN THE AM, and after sitting for a few hrs....

Thanks again for letting me pester you all.....LOL

Congrats Ray, wish I could have been their to help you, But I bet you know a hole lot more about your ride now then you ever thought you would.

Dan.

wish I could have been their to help you

Next, I'll hear about the swamp land in Dayton... :P

Time for a cruise? :D

Time for a cruise? :D

Yeah, in about a month, i should be ready.....

Still have a little more work to do before i'm ready for real highway cruisin.....lol

I did drive it to work yesterday and today and am amazed by the how quick and smooth it starts in the morning...