The time has come to begin restoring my 70 elcamino. Ive been a year researching parts and availability.I have never done a full car restore. I have done fairly extensive body work and mechanical work on my previous chevelles, nova and pickups,20 PLUS YEARS AGO! I now have the time and shop and the patience to tackle this 2 to 3 year project. My main concern is the proper starting point ,the big question I have is, Should I replace the Full quarter panels before dis mantling thecar from the frame while it isstill in its original stance, the panels now and body look to be lined up ok , this I think is what really separates a nice restore from a novice job , the reveals at the doors and fenders are very important to me. I will have help from some very experienced friends in body and mechanics, but I want to make the critical decisions to get the results I am looking for. If it was not for this web site I would never even consider doing this project! I knowyou guys have the answers and the experience tohelp me succeed, which I am totally grateful! I will be sending in my donation to this site immediatly.

Hey Steve58,

I have seen it done properly both on the frame and off. If it is to remain on the frame, make sure the body mounts are not rotted and collapsed onto the body in which case the body is not resting flat and square on the frame. If they are collapsed, then you should probably pull the body off before replacing the quarters.

The biggest issue is to make sure the body is braced, resting flat and level either on the frame or off. Many people make 1 1/2" x 1 1/2" square steel frame jigs with casters on them for moving the body around on (as seen sometimes on Overhaulin'). If you are going to build one of these, it is important to support the body at all of the frame mount positions, not just the front at the cowl and the rear near where the bumper mounts as bridging the body can let the center sag a little, especially if the floor is also rotted. I haven't seen Elkys do this much, but other bodies (like 55 T-Birds) rot and drop, making a big ol' mess. I have also seen guys rest on wood framing, getting the body straight and square - but I am a little leary of all that wood around while I am underneath the car welding.

What ever method you use, make sure you can put the doors back on as you will need these for proper qurater alignment at the back door edge. Also, make sure you do not create such a jig or frame that you cannot get to the inner quarters and floor as they will need repair and refinishing.

Another method which I have seen is to cut two foot pieces of schedule 40 (1 1/2" dia) and weld large washers top and bottom. Lift the body off and bolt it back together with these pipes - utilizing threaded rods and nuts (to replace the body mount bolts and rubber mounts) using these like a lift-kit or stilts. This way, the body is held at each body mount position and exactly two feet off the frame, letting you get in and around the quarters and floor.

Regardless of the method you use, make sure the body or body / frame is level. A 6' carpenter's level is a life saver here. floors are not necessarily level, so you can shim your jack stands as needed with plywood squares to get equal heights front to rear, side to side. I have squares cut 2" larger on all sides than the jackstand footprint in 1/4", 3/8", 1/2" and 3/4" ply - these are a great time saver.

Have fun and keep us posted on the progress.

Dan

Let me just add to the wisdom above. If you know the history of your car, good. If not, consider lifting the body in order to roll the chassis out and check it for squareness and signs of damage. You need to replace the body bushings anyway so why not take a peek? It's only an afternoon's work.

I have done fairly extensive body work and mechanical work on my previous chevelles, nova and pickups,20 PLUS YEARS AGO! I now have the time and shop and the patience to tackle this 2 to 3 year project.
Are you retired now? If so, consider getting the body, or body and frame, elevated somehow because there's a lot of low-to-the-floor work replacing those quarters.

Take your time and, above all, have fun!

Thanks Dan and Rich, I knew you guys were out there! Your info is very much appreciated. I will be studying your posts to help make my decisions. I figure being the beginner that I am , I am not qualified to just start tearing the car apart .What you both are saying makes absolute sense. I fortunatly am too young to retire ( 47 ) so this will be an evening / weekend project, like everybody else I am not rich by any means ,but I am selfemployed , and stay very busy, anyway I love my cars! My welder friend is eager to replace the quarters, I have found full quarters through Dynakorn, the only place I have found so far, $450 each (ouch) but mine are bubbled around the wheels from previous repairs and have not one but two sets of snaps arond the bed so that along with alittle rust on the inner wells down low I am thinking replace quarters also my buddy wants to do a swap thing (the welder/bodyman). He wants me to reupholster his seats in his bubble top COPO he calls it. I am in the boat canvas/upholstery business , so I will bartar! By the way I am cloning the car to be an SS , I already have a full SS dash and original guages from the elcamino store (christmas present from the wife). The big block will come later unless I strike it rich! I am thinking hugger orange with white stripes , some days I think definitly shiny black! Igotta keep dreaming! The interior to date will be two tone grey , dash also, I saw a 70 SS at a car show with a grey interior and knew right away that was it! The owner even let me get all the photos I wanted and was glad I was copying him. The nuetral color of grey keeps my paint options open. I havent learned to post photos yet ,but soon I will. Feel free to offer any and all advice, you know I appreciate it! Steve