hi
has anyone here heard of a power-probe test light? Because i've been reading and replying to a lot of electrial posts and most of these problems could be solved a lot faster and easier with a power probe. It has an 8 ft. lead with snap in extentions available. The power probe hooks to both positve and negative terminals of the battery, eliminating any ?s like "do i have good enough ground". It has an LED light that turns red when touched to power and turns green when touched to ground. It also has a rocker switch that when pushed forward it will apply power to the tip, and apply ground when pulled back(both features protected with a 7 amp. circuit breaker). This works good when trying to locate a short thats popping a fuse, just apply power to the dead side of the fuse and if the breaker pops then you know you have a short. Theres also a 1 ft ground lead thats good for testing relays and motors. Most Mac and Matco tool dealers sell these for about $70-90. It may seem expensive for a fancy test light, but once you have one youll rarely use a regular test light again.
I'm not trying to push somebodys product, I'm just a tech that racks his brain on electrical problems all day and this is a tool that helps.

I use an Actron 7680 (http://www.actron.com/cp7680.pdf) Diagnostic Multimeter. It's only a little more expensive than the power-probe test light but it has a lot of useful features. It's amazing what one can diagnose with a good meter and an accurate set of schematics.

:mrgreen:

I own a Power Probe, yet I rarely use it. I have also forbidden techs from using them in my shop unless I am convinced they know how to use one properly. I have had more than one tech apply power (12volts) or ground for that matter, to electronic circuits and smoke ECM/PCM or body control modules. Also, it cannot measure voltage, nor can it differentiate between a power source or a circuit seeking ground.

However, in the right hands, it can be a useful diagnostic tool, but in the wrong hands can be very dangerous and costly.

I prefer my old Simpson 260 analog meter above everything else, and use it daily for automotive diagnostics, and have it recalibrated at least once a year. Also, I have owned this meter since I was 16 years old, making it over 20 years old.
I have and use a Fluke 77 and a Fluke 88 and use them for diagnosing electronic circuits or anything requiring a high-impedence tester.
But, if I'm heading out to the parking lot for an initial evaluation, it's my handy dandy Snap-On test light that goes with me.

I prefer my old Simpson 260 analog meter .
8O I sold my old Simpson 260 at a yard sale about 10 years ago. I got $10 for it with the case. I got $5 for my old Wiggins too. I got a lot use out of both of them.

:mrgreen:

I also use a Simpson 260 and I have a digital Fluke meter. On most of the basic car circuits I use the Simpson. If I have to trouble shoot something that requires a bit more finesse then I'll brake out the Fluke. I also have an Isolated adjustable Power source and signal generator and some other nifty electronic gadgets. Not that I use them on cars mostly when working on electronics and PCs.

Schematic is the best tool to start off with. A lot of stuff can be diagnosed by just having the schematic and knowing how to read it.

As a matter of fact I am still waiting on a choke light schematic for the 5th gen Elkys. My manual doesn't have one and I understand that I have its operation backwards. :crazy: :D

As a matter of fact I am still waiting on a choke light schematic for the 5th gen Elkys.

Ask and ye shall recieve.



Choke Schematic (http://elcaminocentral.com/articles/elect/light.gif)

All these schematics look like greek to me. All i know about electronics is SMOKE IS BAD!

All i know about electronics is SMOKE IS BAD!
http://elcaminocentral.com/users/87ss/smilielol.gif

i do realize what happens when one of these falls into the wrong hands. But with the proper training it can be useful. I also use a digital volt/ohm meter as well as a lab scope on the more complex problems.

All i know about electronics is SMOKE IS BAD!
Murphys first law of electronics:
"All electronic components work on the principal of "captive smoke". Once you let the smoke out, the device will cease to work."

:mrgreen:

Schematic + Meter + 85-ss-elky = huge loss of magic smoke.

The release of the magic smoke is called job security for me :)

The release of the magic smoke is called job security for me :)

Only if you're not the one casuing the release!

I have a Fluke 82 that I use for work and at home. I would have a Simpson 260 but new (last time I looked) they were about $400 I think. I've never run across one used that I could get calibrated. I used a 260 when I was in the Navy. I've seen one dropped 2 stories and hit a steel deck, crack the case (not easy to do) and still be calibrated.

About 60% of the work we get in are from other shops. It seems like most shops around here wont spend the money to train and keep good people, or to buy and maintain decent equiptment. I'm just glad my boss does. we have mitchell, alldata, identifix, iatn archives, and 4 scantools (tech 2, drb3,ngs,master tech)which requires $1000s in software updates each year, and nearly 100 hrs of training each year. Sometimes i dont see how some of these places can stay in business. It's getting more complicated every year and getting worse. If these other shops dont get caught up quick, they will soon be on the endangered speices list.