I have an 83 with what i believe to be a gasoline 350 motor in it. The previous owner really ghetto-rigged alot of the stuff in the engine bay. It looks like he tried to get rid of the emissions equipment. I think the carb on the motor is a 4 barrel rochester. (i'm unfamiliar with carbs and american cars). There are 2 different valve-plates on the top and the smaller one towards the front of the car is always open...
I think this carb is just old and needs to be rebuilt or something but i dont know enough about it. The car idles really high and loud MOST of the time. Sometimes it will drop down to what seems to be the normal idle, which is noticably quieter and the car doesnt have to be held back by pressing the brake pedal down as hard. I looked at the carb and cant tell what is causing it.
If it doesnt cost too much, ideally i'd like to replace the carb and maybe the intake manifold(ive seen them for pretty cheap on ebay) to gain some performance as well as replace a worn out part.
I appreciate the advice...i just dont know my options.

i forgot to mention that, what i am most confused about is the various vacuum lines that need to run to the carb. there are a few plugged lines coming off the current one.

Sounds like you have a QuadraJet carb on that car and that someone who didn't know anything about it messed with it and all the emmisions lines and vacuum lines. Your high idle is more than likely caused by a sticking choke. It probably has a electric choke on it. Your best bet from what I imagione you are looking at is to replace the carb and ignore the emission stuff till you can get it to run right. Get yourself a good vacuum hose diagram for that car. Look it over very closly then start Identifying what emission stuff you have left on the car. Get a pencil and paper and map out what you have a daigram of the current way they are hooked up then look over the correct way in the daigram in the repair book. Be prepared to spend several hours doing this it is very tedious and boring. Read up about every control device on the car so you can know how it works when vacuum is applied and when vacuum should be routed to it. I spent along time doing this on a 80 Corvette to get it as nice as it was the day it rolled off the showroom floor. Or you can go the other route and ditch all of the emissions equipment and replace the itake with a Edelbrock Performer and a Eldelbrock Performer Carb. There will still be a few vacuum line to hook up but nothing like the mess I imagine you are looking at now. If you take a couple photos of the way it is now I would go ver them with you and maybe you can make some sense of what you have. Good Luck

Once upon a time (two years ago), I was in a fairly similar position. I ended up going with Edelbrock for the intake and the carb. It was a pretty simple swap. The one thing I would say is be sure to use the right RTV. As far as the swap, it was pretty inexpensive and easy (until we did the cam). The carb and intake swap was a good choice. I went with the 1606 model carb for a bit better fuel economy. I'm currently hitting about 17mpg with a 327 and a Powerglide (2-speed) transmission.

I got my parts off of Summit Racing (http://www.summitracing.com)

Good luck with your swap.

thanks alot guys. I would prefer to ditch the emissions stuff because its a mess and I want to simplify the whole thing. Someone really butchered this car, there are wires everywhere. If i had the patience (like you said it takes) and thought it was do-able i would be interested in putting in a whole new wiring harness.

anyway, is the "performer" intake and carb by edelbrock a specified model? or are there a bunch of different versions? and is it expensive? i'll post some ebay ads if i see something and yall can verify its the right thing.

I always thought something was stuck as well but after looking at the set up, i feel like it would be best to just replace these old components.

this is what my current carb looks like. the smaller valve is always open...never closed like it is in the pic...it flops around freely.
ebay rochester carb (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1973-73-Chevy-Rochester-Carburetor-7043202-4-Barrel_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33550QQihZ005QQi temZ150117454269QQrdZ1)

The Performer is a specific Type they have several models to choose from though. I would suggest if your motor is stock to use a 600 cfm Carb with Electric Choke. The Intake is also known as the Performer intake. They are matched to work together. You can check them out on either Ebay or at Jegs.com or Summitracing.com. I would also depending on how mechanically inclined you are add some headers to this package to get the most out of it. Maybe the Edelbrock Performer Cam too. If you were to do all of that your car should run really well. And still get decent if not better MPG than it does now. Here is a link to a page where all of this can be found http://www.summitracing.com/catalogs/bigbook/2007/mayjune/012f.html that page is the Cam and Intake page. I would use Intake part number EDL_2101 If you were going to use a new cam I would use EDL-2102 for the cam and for the carb use EDL-1406. There are alot of different headers out there but I would go with long tube ceramic coated. My personal fave is Hooker Headers. Then use 2 and 1/2 inch pipe. Good Luck in your quest I am sure this combination of things if installed correctly will really make that Elky Run

The Performer is a specific Type they have several models to choose from though. I would suggest if your motor is stock to use a 600 cfm Carb with Electric Choke. The Intake is also known as the Performer intake. They are matched to work together. You can check them out on either Ebay or at Jegs.com or Summitracing.com. I would also depending on how mechanically inclined you are add some headers to this package to get the most out of it. Maybe the Edelbrock Performer Cam too. If you were to do all of that your car should run really well. And still get decent if not better MPG than it does now. Here is a link to a page where all of this can be found http://www.summitracing.com/catalogs/bigbook/2007/mayjune/012f.html that page is the Cam and Intake page. I would use Intake part number EDL_2101 If you were going to use a new cam I would use EDL-2102 for the cam and for the carb use EDL-1406. There are alot of different headers out there but I would go with long tube ceramic coated. My personal fave is Hooker Headers. Then use 2 and 1/2 inch pipe. Good Luck in your quest I am sure this combination of things if installed correctly will really make that Elky Run

i appreciate the info, youve been very helpful! I am definently going to look into those parts. I need to get new wires and probably upgrade the ignition as well because those are items that are AGED for sure..so i'll do that before i get into the cam. hopefully none of this stuff is TOO expensive..i am currently driving the el camino as a daily driver while i work on my other car but i'm becoming very interested in fixing up the elky. It feels sluggish, especially compared to my little maxima.
i'll take some pictures for anyone who wants to see my TORE UP engine bay.
be right back!

wow theres alot of those carbs for sale on ebay, prices dont seem too bad either.
here's one i saw...
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1406-Edelbrock-600-cfm-4-barrel-carb-electric-choke_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33550QQihZ018QQit emZ280110771645QQrdZ1

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v43/Chill/elcamino001.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v43/Chill/elcamino002.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v43/Chill/elcamino003.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v43/Chill/elcamino004.jpg
can you spot the vacuum lines with bolts in the end of them?...lame..

Couple more tips on buying parts. Buy new! I cannot stress the amount of crappy used parts that are out there enough! Also On your ignition system look up D.U.I. Distributors. They are really good and will tailor on to your application! Here is there link http://www.performancedistributors.com/. They do a really good deal for HEI Distributors. They can more than likely provide all the parts to "renew" your ignition. On your photos thats actually not the worst I have ever seen. That one hose coming off the carb with the bolt in it goes to the little black can in the drivers side front corner by the headlight and the other coming off that "thing" screwed into the intake is called a ported vacuum switch. It works by allowing the vacuum suplied to it to only either work or not work depending on the engines tempature.

Couple more tips on buying parts. Buy new! I cannot stress the amount of crappy used parts that are out there enough! Also On your ignition system look up D.U.I. Distributors. They are really good and will tailor on to your application! Here is there link http://www.performancedistributors.com/. They do a really good deal for HEI Distributors. They can more than likely provide all the parts to "renew" your ignition. On your photos thats actually not the worst I have ever seen. That one hose coming off the carb with the bolt in it goes to the little black can in the drivers side front corner by the headlight and the other coming off that "thing" screwed into the intake is called a ported vacuum switch. It works by allowing the vacuum suplied to it to only either work or not work depending on the engines tempature.
oh really? damn cause i was seeing some good prices on ebay haha.
gonna have to save up for the carb in that case.
i'll look into the distributors site. thanks.
do you think the lines that are plugged should be reconnected? or is it not a big deal.

I wouldn't worry about it. I don't see any sense in fixing it now only to take it apart later. Does the it make the Elky run bad? It really looks like someone put all that together somewhat recent. I would imagine that it could be "fixed" to run okay in the meantime.

I wouldn't worry about it. I don't see any sense in fixing it now only to take it apart later. Does the it make the Elky run bad? It really looks like someone put all that together somewhat recent. I would imagine that it could be "fixed" to run okay in the meantime.
i'm not sure really if it is having any effect on how the car runs. Im not really sure WHEN it was done, but i know the 350 motor was supposedly put in years ago so maybe that was when it was all done.
hopefully the intake manifold and carb upgrade will help clean some things up in the engine bay.

It definatly will. I will have to post some pics as soon as my engine is finished. I currently have it at the machine shop. I am having the V6 rebuilt and alot of performance work done to it. I should be able to beat up on so0me V8 cars LOL. I have taken lots of pictures.

It definatly will. I will have to post some pics as soon as my engine is finished. I currently have it at the machine shop. I am having the V6 rebuilt and alot of performance work done to it. I should be able to beat up on so0me V8 cars LOL. I have taken lots of pictures.
damn thats brave. let me know when you have the pics.
it'd probably beat up on my v8 for sure ha.
do you think that edelbrock performer carb will work on my stock intake manifold? gotta do one thing at a time...

The stock manifold should work with the Edelbrock carb. No Problems since they are designed to fit either a spreadbore or a squarebore manifold. I should have the pics later this week! I also itend to make atleast one pass at the dragstrip in it. So I will be posting that info as well after the motor is broken in.

Thats not too butchered. I'm sure if you put the pin back into the accelator pump arm it would run a little better when you push the the gas pedal.

With regards to your monitary situation: Have you ever checked out jegs.com? They have some rebuilt carbs on there for pretty decent prices. They also have performer kits that include the carb and the manifold.

Good luck with your elky......Seeing as you are taking your time I am sure that you will do it right.

thanks for the help.
i will take a look at jegs. I am not sure waht the accelerator arm looks like...but it has been idling pretty low lately...i donno. I dont want to throw money at it but it definently needs work...i'll be able to spend money on it soon.

goin to jegs now

>Thats not too butchered. I'm sure if you put the pin back into the >accelator pump arm it would run a little better when you push the the >gas pedal.
That's hilarious. really, the arm is just dangling about an inch away from the pump piston.
Okay, to get serious. I would have someone rebuild the carb for 100-200 dollars. These days no one has carbs, so there is not much demand. maybe you can get one used that is in better condition. I would not try to rebuild one yourself, as you will always wonder if you did somehting wrong.
It looks like you have the M4ME - not computer controlled, but it looks like you have the electronic choke.
I bought an 86 from somone a year ago. The quadrajet had been replaced, and a lot of emission gear had been tossed too. I wanted to return everything back to "original", at least to have a working system. After that, if I wanted, I would soup it up.
I got a carb, an air filter, egr valve, asst hoses- all used. BOught a few new parts (thermal ported switches). CHevy repair parts are dirt cheap. Still have some tuning issues, but the thing runs. If I did it again, maybe I would have paid 300 for a newly rebuilt carb, but then I would stillhave had to dig up all of the other parts.
YOu can buy a pdf of a carb manual from http://carburetor-manual.com/. No, I will not give you mine. Pay 10 bucks and they'll email you a copy. You can get some info from carburetor doctor, but that site is selling rebuild kits.
I can send you some jpegs of my carb and some hints on hose routing. I do have the vac line info sheet still readable..
If you do not know what you are doing, buying a new carb, new distributor, etc. will cost a lot, and you will be in uncharted land. The check engine light will always be on, etc. YOu will always be moving forward, since you'll have no baseline with which to compare.
What you should do is call up a good chevy dealership and get the exact part number for your year. I think mine was 17086003 (004, 005, 006, 008 also exist, and they may not quite look alike, for example if you have an A/T, you need the kick-down link pivot pin).

I can't talk any more now, but will try to add some more later.

thanks for the info. I just posted a new thread about my new intake and carter carb. I am not overwhelmed just yet... and I am not interested in attaching the emissions ****. I see people at car shows with nice clean engine bays...its a motor, and the necessities...I feel like there is alot in there thats unnecessary. As far as all the connections that go to the carb i'm definently gonna have to do some research or check out what you've already advised me.
How hard can rebuilding a carb be....I'm not easily discouraged so with proper instruction and parts I'm ready for anything really. I'm trying to pick up a haynes manual , it looks like i'll have to get a generic one for malibus or something like that since there isnt one for the el camino.
>Thats not too butchered. I'm sure if you put the pin back into the >accelator pump arm it would run a little better when you push the the >gas pedal.
That's hilarious. really, the arm is just dangling about an inch away from the pump piston.
Okay, to get serious. I would have someone rebuild the carb for 100-200 dollars. These days no one has carbs, so there is not much demand. maybe you can get one used that is in better condition. I would not try to rebuild one yourself, as you will always wonder if you did somehting wrong.
It looks like you have the M4ME - not computer controlled, but it looks like you have the electronic choke.
I bought an 86 from somone a year ago. The quadrajet had been replaced, and a lot of emission gear had been tossed too. I wanted to return everything back to "original", at least to have a working system. After that, if I wanted, I would soup it up.
I got a carb, an air filter, egr valve, asst hoses- all used. BOught a few new parts (thermal ported switches). CHevy repair parts are dirt cheap. Still have some tuning issues, but the thing runs. If I did it again, maybe I would have paid 300 for a newly rebuilt carb, but then I would stillhave had to dig up all of the other parts.
YOu can buy a pdf of a carb manual from http://carburetor-manual.com/. No, I will not give you mine. Pay 10 bucks and they'll email you a copy. You can get some info from carburetor doctor, but that site is selling rebuild kits.
I can send you some jpegs of my carb and some hints on hose routing. I do have the vac line info sheet still readable..
If you do not know what you are doing, buying a new carb, new distributor, etc. will cost a lot, and you will be in uncharted land. The check engine light will always be on, etc. YOu will always be moving forward, since you'll have no baseline with which to compare.
What you should do is call up a good chevy dealership and get the exact part number for your year. I think mine was 17086003 (004, 005, 006, 008 also exist, and they may not quite look alike, for example if you have an A/T, you need the kick-down link pivot pin).

I can't talk any more now, but will try to add some more later.

chillin014,

I ran this setup for awhile on my 87 305 and it works great. I swapped over to F/I, so I have this setup for sale if your interested. I have several additional pieces (AC Solenoid, rods, jets, etc) that go with it. Its in like new condition. $300.00 plus shipping. It's an Edelbrock Perf RPM manifold with #1406, electric choke-600 cfm carb.

I hope I'm not high-jacking your thread, just wanted to let you know in case your'e interested.



http://i143.photobucket.com/albums/r154/Heatsoaked2/DSC01375.jpghttp://i143.photobucket.com/albums/r154/Heatsoaked2/DSC01372.jpg

I see you reside in Texas, do you not have to meet emission requirements? All the posts talk about replacing your Quadrajet carb. Nothing else will pass emissions tests. Doug

The Edelbrock Performer and AVS carbs available today are just newer models of the old Carter AFBs (aluminum four barrels). I have found two ways to tune these carbs that will make them just as acceptable by emissions standards as the Rochester Quadrajet.

The first and easiest method is to adjust the carburetor using a vaccume gague. All you have to do is take the line from the distributor to the carb and hook it up to your vaccume gague and then from the gague to the carb. Adjust the mixture screws until you get the highest reading.

The second method of adjusting the Edelbrock carb is to do so with a fuel/air ratio meter hooked up to the oxygen sensor located somewhere in your exhaust system (if you have one). Shoot for the highest reading possibe, be happy with a 12 something, and ecstatic with a 13 (if you are running a performance cam-13s should be fairly easy to attain with a stock cam).

Before and after any round of carb tuning you should make sure your timing is set properly and that your vaccume hoses are connected properly. I neglected to double check after myself one time and left a hose off....crumby performance, but it will let you know how displeased it is when you try to crank it up and go somewhere.

I am running an Edelbrock Performer 600 CFM carb with vaccume secondaries on an Edelbrock SPS intake manifold (I LOVE that manifold), on a 383 stroker engine on a diet of pump gas. My 82 Elky has a non-locking (stock stall) converter, Turbo 350 tranny, and (stock) 2.75:1 rear axle ratio. This thing storms, especially after 2,000 RPMs out on the freeway.... I installed an MSD Street Fire HEI distributor with a performance curve and found that the vaccume advance was set too high for what I wanted to do. I couldn't get the idle speed down low enough, so I did some experimenting. Thankfully it has an adjsutable advance. I reset my timing, adjusted the carb, and got down to an acceptable 700 RPM idle. The Crane street cam in my engine really sounds off nicely that low and I can idle with the vehicle in gear at approximately 575-600 RPM without worrying about stalling out. The carb does have a tendency to load up a bit set up like that until the engine warms up (I shouldn't have blocked off the heat riser passage under my intake), but a blip of the accelerator peddle on such occasions clears it's throat.

You can also play around with the size of the metering rods and jets in these carbs, but I have had good results using the rods and jets set up as they were when I bought the carb, so just haven't experienced the need to mess with them. A stoich meter is the way to go if you want to tune for emissions, or performance for that matter.

poet100

1982 El Camino (current project vehicle)
1978 Ford F150 with 472 cid SCJ Engine
1959 Ford F100 swb Styleside
1958 Chevy Pickup swb Stepside
1988 Bluebird Bus with 638 cid CAT diesel V8 (converted school bus to camper)

i think my car is old enough, if not , a year away from being old enough to be exempt from emissions.
all the carb. talk is way over my head right now.

i already bought a manifold and carb for 50 bucks locally, check out my other thread "finally got that carb and manifold"