There are a number of changes required to be able to get your El Camino to meet Australian Roadworthy specifications. I am working through these myself and will update this thread as I resolve each.

White front parking lights

This was relative easy, I chose to go with semi-sealed round 7” headlights with built in parking light. The units I got were Wagner brand from Repco for just over A$25 each, made in India and of dubious quality (check the 3 standoffs which locate the unit into the headlight bucket as most I was shown were bent, plus the glass colour varied between the 6 or so I selected my 2 from). They are metal and glass though rather than plastic.

The 75 El Camino has twin filament globes in the existing front parker/front indicator assembly. Identify the front parker light circuit wire and cut it. Connect your new park light wire into the wiring loom side of the cut wire and ground the other wire from the new light. Job Done.

Amber Rear Indicators

This was a bit challenging to understand how the rear Indicator circuit integrated with Stoplight circuit. Consider that the indicator illuminates without the Stoplight being on (illuminated) and it works (flashes (turns off) the globe) when the Stoplight is illuminated. Wiring diagrams I have had access to have no detail on how the two circuits come together other than a note along the lines “to the stop light switch”.

So consider that the Stoplight circuit needs to be retained for the Stoplight and a new circuit needs to be installed for the rear Indicators, including separate Indicator light assemblies.

Firstly I will deal with the under dash wiring changes. The wiring plug on the steering column has two sides, one side being the wires running up to the indicator switch and other steering wheel functions (horn, hazard flashers) and the other side of the switch goes to the body wiring loom. I cut/broke the wires on the plug body loom side. You can extract the terminals from the plug by inserting a small “tool” (tapered rod, flat metal or plastic “pin”) into the side opposite to the wire (look for the slot on the inside of the plug for each terminal and run your “tool” in there and wiggle the terminal out of the plug (do not force). The wires on the upper or left hand side of the wiring loom plug in order are:

White = Stoplight power from the Stoplight switch
Yellow = LH Stoplight globe
Green = RH Stoplight globe

Cut the terminals off leaving about 2 inches of wire in place and join the wiring loom three wires together. You will now have functioning Stoplights and your circuit to the Indicator switch is broken.

To run new wiring from the rear bumper to the steering column plug you need to remove the left rear side marker light assembly and I recommend you remove the inspection panel from inside the left hand side of the cargo area (rear access holes). Remove the LH floor to roof interior trim and you will discover an inspection hole (cabin access hole) which provides access inside the body across the LHR wheel arch and to the rear access holes. Remove the LH door scuff plate and lift carpet to gain access to the plastic cable tray. Using a long stiff piece of wire, route from the inside rear access hole route the wire to the cabin access hole, then attach your new wires to this wire and pull through. Route the new wiring through the cable trays, behind the LH kick panel and under the dash to the steering column plug. Connect to the new wires to the yellow (LHS Indicator) and green (RH Indicator) plug terminal wires and reinstall these terminals into the plug. Save the white wire terminal and 2” or wire for your workshop “stock” as a spare. The cable run is just over 7 metres for the RH Indicator and the width of the vehicle less for the LHS.

Drill a hole from the outside rear access hole through the inner body panel next to the existing plugs and use a grommet to feed the new wires through to the rear bumper. Mount and connect up the new Indicator assemblies and connect the new wire to positive side of the new rear amber lights (or any side of the new Indicator assemblies if polarity is not an issue, ie. Incandescent globes not LEDs). Ground the other wire from the new light.

Left and right rear Indicators now function as they should. Right at this time I notice that if you leave the indicator stalk in the LH or RH on position and you turn on the 4 way flashers the side where your indicator stalk is on does not flash. Not a big deal and one I will endeavour to diagnose later.

Note: if you want to use LEDs you will need a Load Balancer to avoid the system detecting a blown or open circuit globe and not flashing as a consequence.

I asked around ECC about the factory Seat Belts in my 75/76 El Camino as it appeared that the belt retractor for the Lap did not appear to have any locking mechanism like the Sash belt section, but got no response.

I can confirm that both the upper and lower belt retractors are Inertia Reels, ie. they both lock-up the belt movement. This became apparent after the assemblies were given a good clean up. Here is a before and after pics (LH Driver's side is "restored" and the RH Passenger side is "aged" condition)

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v617/Hemi57/Seatbelt3.jpg

Hi John

Yes I know your busy, I am also a project manager and spend most of my time away from my love ( and wife and children.... )

But i am geeting close to calling the engineer. I have a name of Peter Turner who does the Mildura section on VIC but has recently moved and is nearer central vic.

I am just starting to work on the basic but would like to have most things completed before he has his first look.

Seat belts. got a price today of 100 each from Auto Bahn
Windscreen having trouble quoted 1200 from O'Brian
Head light (completed)
Parking lights on 78 seems to already be white
although rear indicators are off the brakes style lights (how can i get around this if the lense is red?)
Mirror I believe that i need to replace the glass on the passenger side due to be convex?
Stripped on the more than limo dark black tint.

Any other obvious ones i have missed

Again many thanks
Adam

Busy is an understatement right now :cry:

Here is something to get you started:

Automotive Technologies
Arnold Millane
(03) 5341 8454
For Windscreens etc.

I'll get back to you on the other stuff as soon as I can mate.

Edit: don't do anything on Seat Belts until we correspond okay?

Thanks John
Wont be doing much in next week, off to Sydney for meeting tomorrow then off to Wellington to complete a project. So could be another week before I get back into the shed but does give me a bit more time to makes call, more planning and searching through the info here. 8O
Will also hold fire on seat belts

Many thanks Adam

Hi John

I have booked in to see Peter Turner for compliance. Should I be taking him the car as complianced as possible? ( cant hurt)
Head lights have been changed, Mirror have had concave glass removed and replaced.
I am still trying to work out a few things
The rear of my 78 has flashing red lights for indicators ( I have read various areas where this is acceptable and not acceptable? Any Ideas

Also I know we have mentioned seat belts and I have had some priced for a 100 bucks a side but the current seat belts have pre tensioners and would be better that after market. it it down to the current seat belts not being ADR/Australian compliant?

Apart from that I have 2 speed wipers, reversing lights

not sure what else is required those ADR's are hard to read sometimes...


Cheers
Adam

Adam, still damn busy but let me get the priorities right and give you a bit more to go on :lol:

Amber rear indicators are required after about 1969 I think.

Seat belts were a major concern for me. My '75 had retractors into the seat mount (floor) and the "B" pillar - therefore two inertia reels each side using non-ADR seat belts. The "B" pillar mount was on an angle and no local belt was available to accommodate this angle. There was no scope to floor mount the inertia reel on the floor either. I thought a stop gap would be to fit the non- retracting type belts but this got bounced by the Engineer as post 1/1/75 all vehicles must have retractable belts. I finally found a company in Sunshine who could fit a locally available belt with a custom bracket for about $190 a side. They would not modify the trim which I had to do myself and they put a nasty door ding in my driver’s door which they denied doing so I reluctantly provide their name (Jamisons Autofit).

My 350 had breathers on both rocker covers and I needed to seal off one and fit a PCV to the other.

My Head restraints were too small on contact area and also could be allowed to go too low. Minimum contact area is 115mm and minimum height from seat base is 700mm to their top.

Sun visors, mine were like pieces of cardboard covered in fabric. I needed to get padded visors.

My exhausts exited on both sides behind the rear wheels. You are not allowed to have the exhaust blowing out the side on the footpath.

Those were the items I got pinged for.

I had already dealt with the amber rear indicators, white front parkers and RHD headlights.

They tested for emission, noise and other bits and pieces too, eg. Must have either lockable gear lever or steering (mine is dodgy and only locks the gear level but they passed it).

There you go.

If you would like a chat, drop me your contact number and a suitable time and I can give you a call. Best number is a mobile as the office phones are STD blocked.

Cheers Mate
Gave me me stuff to do in the shed tonight.
Fitted some padded sun visors out of another car..... I am sure that my wife is going to notice.
feeling pretty excited that it is going for its first test/drive on Saturday, also kinda thinking that it not going to make it..

Looked at the indicators tonight.. I really do not want to fit aftgermarket lenses or additions (by the way, why is you new number plate not in the middle of your. Is the plate to big? had the same problem on a 300zx just bent it up not a great look but made it fit in the end).. do you know if a slim line plate makes any difference?

I thought about using my reversing lights with amber bulbs as indicators and then somehow fitting discrete reversing lamp, maybe another bulb in there somehow?


Anyway I think it is best to get it along to the compliancer and see what he want, bit worried car has only been driven 3/400 km in last 4 years or maybe 10 since it was imported.

I know my fathers compliance of his 71 blown big block was not as strict as yours - head rest, emissions braking did not really come into it . I am just hopping Peter is ok, I understand that this is about safety but I still have to get through a road worhty.

Anyway very much appreciative of your help just great to have a sounding board of someone in the know.

Charrs again
Adam

Adam, the number plate does not fit between the overriders and there is no scope to move them without exposing holes. I like the offset front plate myself. Not sure if slim line would fit, maybe a 5 letter slimline would, but the size of EARLE I reckon small plates wouldn't look any good.

Good luck with your engineer. I got my roadworthy before seeing the engineer and it ran out before I could get the certificate so more expense.

On the rear indicators, you could rig something up and then revert back once you are on the road. That is what I am still thinking of doing.

lol I have been out in the shed (again) tonight being a bit cocky thought I would just do this and that she will be fine...
did not think you would be the type of person to advocate a change after compliance..

Also like the position on your plate not sure on mine over riders have been removed, but the bumper seems the best.
http://i225.photobucket.com/albums/dd300/koalapie/LPpos.jpg

Reading and re-reading your post about installing indicators, those lights on the rear do crazy things... not as simple as I thought, guessing i might have to go after market to get through.
when you mention load balancing for LED light is that something best left to professional sparky or is is simple fit something inline to balance?

I have got it booked in this Friday with my mechanic, for a very quick freshen up. then off Saturday for first longer drive. planning to take it down for a wash and degrease tomorrow or Thursday, let hope it makes it there and back. I mean honestly i have only driven this thing about 800 meters, I am use to driving left hand drive just want to get to know my future car better, oh well a couple of days and I will KNow

How is Earle driving for you, any quirks you have picked up so far.

Sorry, not sure if you answered this but did you need to stamp your block
if not where is the best place to look for vin no. is this even stamped on block?

Also having trouble is finding wheels, dad sold the convo pro that were on it now it is sitting on mix and matched tyres on rusty chrome rims. I found these but am unsure if they will fit?

Ebay rims for HQ (http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=120259750640)

What ever happens, I am enjoying being back out in the shed with a project I am passionate about, get so aggravated working on mine or my wifes car and taking the skin off my knuckles, makes so much difference when i care about what I am doing..

till tomorrow and thanks for your help.
KP

Adam, the load balancing resistors for LED lights are no big deal. I got mine from Bursons at about $15 each. They install from the positive to ground to give more resistance in the line than just the Led and without it the flasher can thinks a globe is blown and does not flash. I bought my amber Leds off eBay from the US but they turned out to be too small. Watch out buying amber lights as your Engineer might demand they have some local standard molded into the lense. I bought mine from Supercheap and they are not actually Aussie standard but he overlooked that.

EARLE is driving great but damn heavy on fuel (about 11.5 mpg :cry: ).

Your block needs to have the engine number. Don't worry about the VIN on the block.

In a rush here as usual. I'll get back to you.

Cheers John
I have taken today off to get the car up to the mechanics and get it ready for the trip on Sunday to Guilford for initial compliance test.

We should have close to the same engine ( LM1 350 4bb 170hp) so expecting about the same MPG, will be putting on straight gas in the next month or so as this is going to be my daily driver and with the other elk running at about 4mpg and my wife driving another V8, kids will have to skip schooling and go straight to work so we can afford to run all these cars..( and toys)

Once I get it back from mechanics today I will take the car up to the car wash for a good degrease, then have a look and see if I can find an engine number

I guessing all my hard work starts next week when I sit down and look at the list from the compliancer, will also start the get an initial roadworthy check, although I know a few roadworthy mechanics around here that do quite a few imports so hoping for leniency.

cheers
Adam

Adam, I am in the office again today and still flat out.

I am looking forward to hearing how you got on with your Engineer.

On the wheels, I know mine has the same stud pattern as the HQ through to WB. Not sure if yours is the same. My WB ute has 14" wheels while the El Camino has 15", so the old WB wheels do not clear the calipers.

I suppose you are getting the "Unroadworthy Permit" to drive it around? I spent a small fortune on those in 14 months.

Made it back from the engineers..

The course I took was a little cross country with a few dirts roads..lol car ran alright but need to get the front suspension look at..

But good news as a result, he was fairly relaxed and it now looks like it is up to the Roadworthy guy to pick up most of the issues??

Engineer asked for the car to comply with 1,2,3,4c,5b,7,8,9,10b,11,12,14,15,16,18,20,21,22a, 23,24,25a,27a,28.

but after a quick look over the car he said he wants
Noise ticket
Weigh bridge ticket
RWC
New seat belts - no concerned about position ( so direct swap :-D )
One or 2 hoses off anti pollution just wants to see them go somewhere.. even though i am putting onto straight gas.
Amber indicators but said just stick them in reversing light area and mount new reversing light AD2 compliant of course..
Confirm collapsible steering column

and thats it, fairly easy

so not to book it in for initial RWC early this week to get a run down.
Wait for new screen ordered from Ralf Moore Auto Glass in Syd 380 delivered.

Find some wheels and tyres,

Also another touch of luck with a local guy being interested in the big block 71 I have up for sale.

Will re read you post yet again on indicators and run them through to the reversing lights clear sections..

all in all... a good week

Thanks for your help to date
Oz C

Sounds like you have got off fairly lightly and what you have to do is manageable. I did the Roadworthy first and then the Engineer and I knew the lights were a requirement so addressed them early on.

My Engineer did the noise test themselves and was unconcerned about the weight, as were VicRoads too.

Collapsible column should definitely be installed I reckon.

I was staggered to get hit $715 for the VASS certificate which only took them a couple of leisurely hours to do the inspection and paperwork. Nice snacks in their tea room though 8O

Next post tomorrow will sort it out, report back from the Roadworthy guy...

plus the Pedder's recommended repairs come in at over 2k... expecting to have to do most of it, but again will see what the mechanic has to say..

tried the indicators lights tonight but will post a separate post..

off to Wellington next Monday for the week so might try and get it to Pedder's for the suspension work whilst I am away.

Oz C

Pedders quoted me around $800 in labour but would not commit to the parts costs or chasing the parts.

I ended up getting a full suspension kit from The El Camino Store for about US$320. It was great, with all bushes, bump stops, ball joints and even some shafts. Be warned the sway bar items are listed separately. The El Camino Store are supporting vendors and will give you a 5% discount if you quote your ECC membership number. They have given me good service so they are highly recommended.

I have had the boys at Goodyear in South Melbourne do a bit of work for me and they usually look after me, especially if I say do the work in your quiet times between other jobs. The fit-up cost about $550 but they couldn't/wouldn't do the bushes in the diff housing as they reckoned they were okay and they didn't have the equipment to do the job.

I had electrical problems with mine (washer wouldn't work, dash lights glowed when wiper on, etc.) and that took a lot of time to fix. Turned out to be poor grounds and you will see the members here stressing the importance of checking and improving grounds on old vehicles.

I am enjoying the updates on yours :)

Slowly getting there
on to the second permit.

All suspension work completed
Still looking for wheels and tires...
installed seat belts last night ( off the shelf from Auto bahn)
Windscreen arriving today.
Passenger seat of to have cheap re trim on seat section next week.

Need to try and find hand break cable (or have one manufactured)
also rear brake hoses ( front and cylinders from Eagle auto parts)

Also have to try and get de-mister heater working Think it is relay that is gone but strange config trying to locate one now.

Also have to get surrogate engine number and get it stamped.

Should have a better update in a few days been another busy few weeks.
cheers Oz c

Good to hear it is coming along. I got one front brake hose and the rear slave cylinders from Eagle myself. The other front hose was re-manufactured by ABS and I had all sorts of problems with it, hence I didn't muck around with the second one.

I saw on Carsales (I think it was on that site) an El Camino for sale out of Kyneton. Anyone you know?

The Fast 71 was my fathers who passed away a year ago.
It was left to us kids but have only started trying to sell it.
Was not in a huge rush.

Is a little impractical for me to keep with the blown 454

and a little out of my current price range to buy my brother and sister out
plus my wife has said 5 cars must become 1 . ( 1 sold last week 3 to go)
She has been great so really try to get back to one car.

Cars is in good nick and great fun to drive, have had a little interest, one guy locally is coming back this weekend for a third look.

getting closer to getting the 78 on the road, has been great to get behind the wheel been driving to bendigo and sunbury feel great now with susspension work done.
Have to get someone to look over the motor as it has no pick up at all, my 4 cylinder swift had more guts.

Also on the way to Sunbury from Kyneton on Friday (Calder)
I passed another black 5th gen both of us ended looking over our shoulders in disbelief..
Do you know of another black fifth gen in Vic?

Cheers Adam

It is frustrating trying to sell cars for sure. The amount of people who love EARLE is mind boggling, but I bet not one would be prepared to lay down the cash. When I had the Transmission rebuilt at Western Automatics I left EARLE there for a couple of months and the owner reckoned on average someone would ask if it was for sale about every week.

On the black 5th gen on the Calder, no idea unfortunately. I went to the All American day at Flemington in 2007 and there were only three El Caminos on display, two 5th gens and a 3rd gen. I know the owner of the 5th gen with the '51 Studebaker front end - not my cup of tea - which gets to a few shows.

I hear there are lots of El Caminos around but never see any.

Good luck with the '71.

Cheers John

Will drop the price in a few weeks on fast 71 and see if that changes the story?

Getting further along with getting mine on the road but slight set back last night.
Had an auto elec here for about 10 hours yesterday....
Fixed the indicators to work from reversing light locations (also to act as reversing lights)

Fixed the heater so it blows warm air to the windscreen ( not much else... need to get my head around all this vacuum stuff and think what I am going to do with the A/C )

Fixed tacho and volt meter and oil pressure gauges that were not working.

and a couple of bad earth on front indicators.

But while all this was going on the key seized in the barrel and would not budge, he helped pull the column apart and remove the barrel but now I need to try and get this one fixed or order one from the states.

Have a bit of stuff I ordered from the Elcaminostore on its way not sure how long that is going to take? postage was a killer $280 USD

Also wheels from the states ( 87Elcamino gave me some advice that I ignored - young and stupid i claim ) that should be here in how long I do not know.

Once I have that and the key fixed it is off to get some final things for roadworthy and then ................. for the engineering cert..
and then rego..

All sounds simple

Adam, fun isn't it? :roll:

Ah the vacuum controlled air & heater trapdoors. I worked on those for a while, but I had the whole assembly on the bench which I dismantled and rebuilt with new foam. I needed a vacuum pod for the door/vane to direct air to the screen. Got my original rebuilt locally for an arm and a leg. I needed the recirculate vacuum pod controller and got that from a member here on ECC who sells secondhand parts for about a 10th of the cost of getting the other repaired.

The El Camino Store usually uses a shipping company called BAX. I would expect that your package with take about 2 weeks, maybe less. They seem to be very efficient.

I am off work taking a sanity break this week (the result of extreme pressure and huge hours just about broke me), so my therapy is working on EARLE.

I am installing a sound system which I got from evilBay. Has a TV and all the usual latest stuff and hopefully will be in and working today. I searched for ages trying to get accessory power, then I read the owner's manual and discovered that the ignition switch is exactly the same as my old WB Ute, ie. you turn it back from the lock position to get accessories, only problem was no amount of pushing and shoving would allow it to turn back. I pulled the steering wheel off and disassembled the top of the column to get the barrel out. It was so worn that it was sunk too far into the column not allowing you to press the lock in to allow it to turn back to accessories. I fortunately had a suitable plastic ring which spaced it so it now operates like it should.

I also found the indicator assembly was cracked which explains why it was hard to select the RH indicators. I bodged up a repair for that too.

I reckon your Auto Elect charge would be nasty after that many hours :shocked:

I see you have the 71 in Unique Cars. It sounds sooo bloody good. It is frustrating trying to get to the person who would jump at the opportunity to buy such a top ride like that.

Once again good luck with the selling and of course the "rebirth" of your 78.

Great to hear you are getting a break, that was me last week with taking Friday and Monday off due to full on work commitments driving me insane.

Elcaminostore stuff arrived about half and hour ago..
so more time in the shed for the next week..
only thing that they did not have in stock was window felts, trying to track them down from ebay now.

The ignition barrel is at the local locksmith and he should... have it finished today.

Stereo went in last week for me, nightmare was finding a place for the speakers.. but for a short term solution I covered a board with material and stuck speakers and amp to that behind the seats. could become perm if i can cover the rest ( mine rear curtain was missing from day one)

Auto Elec charge was $50 an hour so fairly happy with that, he sorted out a few things I could not ( like the indicators ) and did not mind he hanging over his shoulder

How is EARLE driving at the moment

Well a little set back.. was meant to be at mechanic's for some final works and then road worthy this week

But got a little too smart for my boots after getting the steering column back together on the third attempt ( what a mission that was). I tried tackling the rear break hose but have managed to twist the pipe.....

So working out how to get it fixed not sure if I can have it cut and another flange put on it? as it is only the last 4 mm or do I have to have another line made up. also can someone do it on site.

Before this happened I managed to change both rear wheel cylinders, another job that was not to easy with the little hold on clips that they use..

Well At least my wheels will be here now when i take it for the roadworthy?


How is your Radio/tv install going John
Mine is a little rough but needs a bit of work before I mount properly.
I am still looking for a place for the second screen.
Also need a new bezel as mine has been modified from old style radio and been cracked.
JVC head unit with blue tooth, reversing camera, touch screen (no buttons)
http://i225.photobucket.com/albums/dd300/koalapie/JVCheadunit-1.jpg

An old amp and some splits I picked up cheap from JB hifi (wires still need a bit of tidy up and working on rear curtain this weekend. http://i225.photobucket.com/albums/dd300/koalapie/amp-1.jpg

Apologies for the delay in responding. I sometimes quickly read a post and think I must get back to that and forget.

I hope you have found a solution to the brake line. I guess someone could do it on site but where you live might present less options that me here in the 'burbs. I had a similar issue where I rounded off the nut and just couldn't break the thread lock on one of my front hoses. It was still drivable so I took it to my friendly ABS and let them gouge me on the price to fix it.

I am reasonably happy with the cheapy sound system I have installed. I still need to come up with a satisfactory solution for the rear speakers which are in boxes floating around on the back floor. Got my TV antenna delivered last Friday (from eBay) and need to tackle that install one of these days. Your system is much more upmarket than mine mate.

I assume your wheels have arrived at home? I am looking forward to seeing pics of those when they are on.

Cheers

No wheels (maybe Monday or Tuesday) and the car is still laid up due to the brake hose issue.
Local mechanic drop by for a look and said cut off the break line bring it up and I will join it all back together with a joiner. Now he said funny size another 3 or 4 days to get a joiner... still waiting.

Mate I just want to get this on the road, sold three cars this month and Now I am left with borrowing the wife if I need to go anywhere...
Fast 71 is still not even got an offer well 11k and 15k
would kill me to let it go for that, so I guess I hold onto it and try to explain to my brother and sister...
well hope your is driving well
Will post some pictures soon hopefully
cheers Adam

What to say hey!!
Noooo post for how long and the fricken thing is still not on the road....

dramas abound..

although it is in my shed with just a trip back to pedders before the Road Worthy and then off to the engineers for round 11 of this heavy weight title fight, when I am really feeling like not getting back up again after the last knock down.

On LPG now which was relatively painless.
I have plates now

http://i225.photobucket.com/albums/dd300/koalapie/15082008374-1.jpg

so what did I say a month or more ago just a few more weeks now.

One day I will have this thing on the road.

PS Fast71 (blown 454) still for sale but does not want to be sold had a looker today and it would not start when he arrived even though I had warmed it up and then broke down on the test drive.... offered 19..

Adam, it is a labour of love isn't it? :lol:

I may have said before but when I bought EARLE I reckoned 2 months & 6K would do it. Hahahahahahahahaha.

14 months and let's not talk about the cash :cry:

Good to see you are reducing that list of things to do and see some light at the end of the tunnel (let's hope no-one extends the length of the tunnel eh?)

Tough luck on FAST 71. Bloody Murphy's law.

BTW good to see you dropping back in :-D

Hijacked post back on track, thanks for your tolerance John

LKMENO is now on the road

1978 ss black knight imported in 1999 sitting since then took a bit of work to get on the road but was not as hard as it could have been in the end

List of stuff for roadworthy[\U] (only mechanical issues really no other mods for being American )

-Amber lenses ok
-exhaust exit on side after rear wheels ok
-Chrome steering wheel ok
-17 inch rims ok
LHD ok (over 30 year rule)
other glassed ok as marked with correct info

-Asked to fix oil leak, trans leak, PS leak- get washers working replace big crack in windscreeen, replace some break hoses and bushes, uni joint and ball joints tie rod ends

-[U]List of items for Engineer

-Amber reversing lights ok ( no need for extra ADR reversing lights as I had auto elec make indicators as reversing )
-Emissions ERG set up( not required LPG fitted)
-head lights dip left ( easy )
-New seat belts ( 170 buck autobahn fitted my self)
-noise test - weigh bridge

Sailed through VASS check as he only really checked items he highlighted on fist visit - and then checked ADR info on seat belts and what the brake light showed up as when handbrake was actuated, the rest of the time I sat in office with him while he asked questions and I answer from my extensive knowledge of the car

ahh yes .. yes hmm yes it has that.. yes i think so .. lol

biggest worry was when he asked about locking seats as my 60/40 bench folds forward but i see no way of locking it in place? ... ahh yes was my stock response by then.

did not check so happy (or lucky)

all up $750 although his receipt shows a 300 insurance levy, so his slice is 450 ? about 100 bucks an hour, not to bad I suppose.


Other work was to put on LPG (read propane) for 2200 ( only 200 - rebate) and a new Cam as it was not running very well and after the 4th mechanic who could get of his ar5e and even looked at it picked it straight away and replaced it all up for 800. showed me when he had it in bit and 2 of the egg shaped were round.. 8O

So all up LKMENO cost me 3 grand and have spent another 6 on it to get it on the road.

Future plans ( well next week hopefully) is a 3.42 rear end ( non posi at the moment ) and next month a th 700 conversion as I am thinking the 3.42 is going to eat through the fuel even though it is on gas

cheers for your help and advice John, now just to sit back and enjoy and think of how much a paint job is going to set me back...

Adam

Congratulations Adam. It is satisfying when you get through the collective challenge of getting them registered.

My VASS cost $650 + gst, so a total of $715. Their invoice/receipt didn't have any breakdown but I thought to myself "that is not bad money for about 2+ hours work. :cry:

I'll watch out for you on the highway :-P