Can i do it? Is it a hard swap to do? i'm doing a rebuild over the winter so i'm looking at where i can improve on factory. Thanks again!

8) Only if you replace the block with a two piece main seal block! Sorry. :(

Well,let's be fair here. my elky's rear main seal has only lasted it some 25 years.

How long does it usually take before they start to leak anyway?

How long is a piece of string? :lol: Doug

Can i do it? Is it a hard swap to do? i'm doing a rebuild over the winter so i'm looking at where i can improve on factory. Thanks again!

If your engine is the original one in your 82, then it is already a 2 piece rear main seal. They didn't start using the 1 piece until 87 I believe.

To replace the seal you need to pull your oil pan, remove the oil pump, then unbolt the rear bearing cap. Use a soft punch and tap on one side of the seal until it pushes out the other side some. Grab the seal gently with some plyers and pull it out. Remove the other side out of the bearing cap.

To install oil up the new seal and slide it in the hole the old one came out of. Gently rotate the crank shaft until about a half inch of the seal sticks out. Install the other half in the bearing cap and leave the same amount hang out over the other side. Put a super thin coat of rtv sealer on the block where the cap sits. Line up the seal and torque it down. reinstall the oil pump and pan with a new gasket.

Rob

i'm looking to install the one that will leak less.

They shouldn't leak if installed right. Get a good quality gasket kit and take your time with the install. In order to go to a one piece seal you need a newer block and crank. Alot of rear engine leaks are around the back of the oil pan anyway. Make sure its not that that is leaking. They make a one piece oil pan gasket now that is suppose to be pretty good. I always use Felpro gaskets and I have had great luck with them.

rob

Now,will a good set of fel-pros help stop the leak from my valve covers as well?

Now,will a good set of fel-pros help stop the leak from my valve covers as well?

If installed right... Most leaky gaskets are from improper installation. You have to make sure the gasket surfaces are clean and straight. Clean all the old gasket material off making sure not to gouge the valve covers, check to make sure they are straight. I put on the sticky glue sealant on the seal edge of the valve cover, then glue the gasket on to the valve cover. let it sit a while then install. If you can use the long hold downs and only snug them up. Over tightening makes them leak too.

Rob

Thx! now i have a weekend job while my new brake lines come!

Thx! now i have a weekend job while my new brake lines come!

Do you have the motor out? If not you will need to raise unbolt the motor mounts and raise the engine a few inches to get the oil pan off. If you don't already have one I would get a chilton guide for your car. That will give you the torque specs for the bolts when you put it together.

Rob

The easiest way to keep the engine raised up is to put the motor mount bolts back in after the mounts are parted. Read this thread about in-frame oil pan removal.

http://elcaminocentral.com/ftopic-21254-0.html

Doug

if you do have 1 piece rear main seal and for some weird reason want to use a two piece then an adapter is offered through jeg's: http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/category_10001_10002_11593_-1_10445

The only reason I could see to use this would be if you needed to make a 2 piece style crank work with a 1 piece style block. in my opinion I would rather have a one piece rear seal than a two piece.

http://www.sdparts.com/product/SD1006/RearMainOilSealAdapterSBChevrolet.aspx