Looking to do some upgrades and thought I'd check here first... What's the FAIR price of a 200 3 spd to 700R-4 (rebuilt) swap cost these days? how about a stock rearend to posi also? by FAIR, I mean performed by a commercial transmission shop. Engine is currently 305, but am planning on a some form of injected 350 and doing my driveline now in preparation.

Your first chore is to read through the Transmission & Drive Line section. Use the search feature for transmission swaps. After I read through most of it and asked a few questions I decided to go with a 2004R instead of the 700R4. The 700R4 is really a transmission for pickups. The 1st gear is real low. That is great for getting a heavy load started but is sucks for normal driving. You will be out of 1st gear in a few feet.

The 2004R can be built to handle a lot of power if that is your intention. My 2004R has a full lockup so it is like a 5 speed transmission.

I supplied a new crossmember to the transmission shop. I found a new shift indicator for the speedometer and installed that myself.

I dropped of my Elky in the morning with a T-350 and picked it up that afternoon with a 2004R. I paid right at $1,500.00 for the complete swap. It was a wonderful upgrade. I had to change my rear end ratio. It was 2.41 and that is simply to low unless you want to cruise and 95 MPH. I am super happy with the 3.08 ratio I now have. At 75 to 80 MPH I am turning 2,500 RPM.

Use the resources of El Camino Central before you buy anything. I am sure others will add their two cents. Listen to everyone and then decide for yourself what will be best for you.

No, not building anything over 350hp, I drive it to the beach (35 miles at 80) quite often and to work once a week, so long legs are more important, but I figured (quite possibly wrong) even a mild 4 spd would be better than any 3spd. If you're running 2500 at 80 with 3's in the rear, that works for me too. Also I was under the impression (and quite possibly wrong again :oops: ) that 2004R's were harder to find and thus more $$. How long ago was your swap? I admit I don't do enough homework myself and am shadetree at best, that's why I love this site.
Anybody with a FAIR posi swap cost?

I had the tranny swapped 14 months ago. It has been a great upgrade.

I had a peg leg rear end originally. While I had the rear opened I had all new bearings put in. The old axles were rather chewed up at the rear wheel bearings so I put in new axles and wheel studs and lug nuts. I don't remember what the posi unit costs, it was lumped into the project. I would have to guess a Eaton posi unit installed by itself would be $600.00 or so.

The transmission and rear end are about the only things that I figured we beyond my skill level. I personally did my upgrade to fuel injection. That was the one thing that made the biggest improvement in overall drivability of my Elky. It allowed me to have the computer reprogrammed to engage the torque converter at 50 MPH.

found a 200r4 locally $400 (will need rebuild, 110K miles)
does this sound like a good price? and what does the BRF tag and BR3 stencil mean?

found a 200r4 locally $400 (will need rebuild, 110K miles)
does this sound like a good price? and what does the BRF tag and BR3 stencil mean?

400 bones for a transmission needing rebuilt is way out of line, and who says a th700r4 is a truck transmission---they came is everything, corvettes, cameros, firebirds, big sedans as well as trucks... before 93 they are strictly hydraulically controlled (except for the lockup converter) and after-wards are computer controlled and go by the designation 4l60e....I have one in my el camino and my pickup----they are plentiful and for the money hard to beat.............Dan

thanks old_coot... appreciate the knowledge... would it be more appropriate to get a 4l60e if I plan on a multi-port injection (post 93) 350?
or should I just stay with 93 or under simple throttle-body injection system and the 700r4? I'm assuming the only difference is the amount of un-needed cash I have layin round, but am more concerned about the computer/wiring requirements for the more modern setup.

No, not building anything over 350hp Also I was under the impression (and quite possibly wrong again :oops: ) that 2004R's were harder to find and thus more $$.
Anybody with a FAIR posi swap cost?
200-4r transmissions are quite common, there is a huge 35 acre junkyard in Orlando called U-Pull-&-Pay that you can pull the tranny yourself for around $125 and get a 31 day warranty on it, should have a good selection of cars with 200-4R's
The 200-4r was first used in 1980 and this transmission was used with high-power applications - primarily the Buick Grand National. GMs powered with the Oldsmobile 5.7L Diesel powerplant were coupled with the 200-4R as well as many G-Body vehicles (Olds, Buick, Pontiac, and Chevrolet) The 200-4R should be good up to 500 hp. The THM200-4R was phased out after 1990 - its final usage was in the GM B-body lineup (Chevrolet Caprice, Oldsmobile Custom Cruiser station wagon, Cadillac Brougham) coupled to either a Chevrolet 305 or an Oldsmobile 307 engine. A HD version of the 200-4R was used in the late 80s Caprice 9C1 police package using the internals from the Buick Grand National.

As for the posi swap, shop around, you can fit 28 spline axles from a Buick Grand National in your 7.5 rear along with a factory Eaton posi from a G-body Monte Carlo SS, it was a factory option for those so might be harder to locate and the gears are whatever you decide on, I am using 3.73s and my swap was around $500 complete- gears, posi, and axles, plus another $100 for the strengthened rear end cover

the only reason to get the 4l60e woulf be if you also swap in the computer from the later model car to control it because it is cmpletely controlled by the computer---the hydraulically controlled tranny has no idea what engine is in front of it and so is much more "universal" in its use.......................Dan

SUMMIT RACING EQUIPMENT has a painless harness part#prf-60110 for the 200-4r and part# 60109 for the 700-r4, that allows you to run a lockup converter without a computer, you can look it up on line. i'm running a early 700 with a non lockup converter. be careful what tranny you pick up there's a few different 700-r4s out there, I found out too late into my swap. If your pushing out alot of horsepower I think a 350 or a 400 is the way to go. My new tranny guy has been racing chevy's for a while and swears a 350 with a 400 converter is the way to go. The 700 does have a nice low 1st gear. a 700 does cost alot more to build up. It all depends what your doing with it. cruizin, working or draggin it around town. Your call. I do all the above, and have a good time doing it.
Rick

try bowtieoverdrives.com they have good info on 700r4&200r .
i'm planning on change over to the 700r4 to backup my 383 stroker
good luck with what ever choice you go with