My Elky has 254,000 miles on it. After all those miles it still had the original rotors and calipers. The pads were due for replacement and after I put a micrometer on the rotors it was obvious it was time for new rotors as well.

I figured if I was changing the rotors I might as well go all out and put on new loaded calipers. And while I was at it I replaced wheel bearings and brake hoses, and got new studs and lug nuts. With everything new I knew the brakes would suck for a while. The brakes are slowly starting to break in. I can still see the factory machining mark on the rotor face, it is slowly starting to wear away. The problem and reason for this message is the brakes are starting to pull to the right. I will bleed the brakes again this weekend.

Can any of you think of something I am missing that would cause the brakes to pull to the right?

Don't forget about the rears. If the left isn't working correctly it will pull or if the right is grabbing a little it will pull it. I guess what I am trying to say is your problem might not be the front brakes.

mabey its the porportioning valve a high milage rig like that. especially if this was the first big break job it has ever had lol

You could also have a collapsed brake line.

I replaced the front rubber brake lines when I did the upgrade.

It stopped straight before I changed the fronts. If I get on the brakes hard now it will lock up the passenger front tire. For a while it would not lock up the fronts at all. If I make several hard stops it seems to stop straight for while when the brakes are hot.

Hopefully as the brake rotors and pads wear in they will even up.

Two possibilities I can think of right off. First you say you bought loaded calipers. Even though you buy from the same manufacture there is no guarantee that the pads in each caliper are from the same set. Many times they will run out of one brand or batch of pad and start on a new one. You could have two different pad sets mixed in there. There is no way they can keep left and right loaded caliper sets together, if you follow me here. You can buy a hole new set of pads or try swapping the two outer pads from left to right. Mixing the set could balance the braking.
Second you may have an issue with the calipers. I just bought two semi loaded calipers from the same manufacture and the two were totally different. One was a brand new casting and one was an old casting with bent ears and a bleeder repair. I ended up stripping both shelving the new casting and sending the messed up one back as a core. I blasted and rebuilt my old cores as they look to be the originals.
Starting in the mid '80 GM started using the quick take up master cylinders. These use a caliper with a wider seal cut. There is no way to guarantee you will get the proper caliper for these cars. The remanufacture lump them all in the same category so you can end up with a quick take up caliper on one side and a standard unit on the other.
Despite all this I would look at the pads first, this is most likely you problem.
Mike

Thanks for the input. The parts were all purchased from NAPA. The calipers looked identical. I had to use the part numbers to tell left from right.

I will finally have time to bleed the brakes tomorrow, just to be sure everything is even. When I shine a flashlight on the rotors I can see the factory machining marks are wearing off faster on the passenger side than the drivers side. That makes me think there may be air in the drivers side. I used a vacuum pump to suck the fluid through the system. There are always air bubbles in the vacuum line but that is normal in my experience using a vacuum brake fluid one man bleeder.

You have a caliper, whose's pistons are hanging up.
Causing a drag. Is why you are seeing more wear on one rotor and not the other.
You have a defective caliper.
I too bought ALL my parts from NAPA when doing my 83, and found MANY of their new parts to be defective and needed returing.
Good parts ARE getting harder to find, with all the **** from India, Tiawan, Viet-Nam, China and the endless world trade crap we are doing.

Lets get our parts made back here in the good ol' USA!

Citizen's of the Republic of the United States, UNITE!

We can do this with the high cost of fuel too, UNITE! and lets stand together as America, again.
Close our borders and take care of our OWN people!

If you do have a great deal of air in one caliper this could be your cause. Foot bleed out the remaining air, vacuum bleeders tend to suck air in around the bleeder screw threads. A small about can back flow into the caliper before you can get it closed.
The parts situation with calipers is this. As a vehicle line gets older the amount of good quality caliper cores decreases this is pretty evident in the fact that I got one new casting (odiously being recast over seas to make up for shortages) and the useless repaired core with bent ears.
Check the edge code on the pads. If the numbers on all four pads no not match, you have a mixed set. If all this doesn't solve it, it is likely something is wrong with a caliper,
Mike

I bleed the brakes and that made no difference at all.

Yesterday I swapped the pads from left to right. Now the brakes will have to seat in again. I went out and went through several hard stops from 50 or 60 MPH. It seems to be stopping fairly even right now.

The factory machining marks are mostly gone but there is still a little of it left. I feel sure that the brakes are not going to be fully seated until all the face of the rotor looks even with no machining marks left.

Thanks for all the suggestions.