I want to use an epoxy aerosol to cover bare metal before i apply bondo. Will etching primer work for ths application? Any suggestions are welcome. thanks Rich

I wouldn't use anything out of a spray can to do bodywork with. Spray can paints and primers are poor quality and if you are wanting a good paint job you want to use quality material. Especially if you are using it for a foundation for your bondo. It will be the weak link in the adhesion of the bondo to the metal. Bondo is a catalsized filler and spray can primer, even an epoxy spray can primer is a single part primer and it's not a good practice to put an two part material, whether it's bondo or paint, over a single part material. Anything that is catalsized is harder than a single part material and will lead to adhesion problems in the long run. You can put bondo over bare metal with no problems as long as your surface is prepared right. I've been doing it for 30 years. If you do want to put your bondo over a primer I would use a good quality, 2 part primer sealer. Not a primer surfacer and especially not a spray can primer. I'm sure you'll get a couple of reponses from the backyard bodymen out their who used spray cans on their entire car and it's a slick as glass and it's withstood hurricanes, sandstorms and the raging fires of hell and still looks as good as new but take the word of someone who is constantly repainting the work of those same weekend bodymen, and use quality material. Good luck with everything.

1987 Caballero
1986 Conquista

Thanks sccountryboy2004, This is my first attempt at body work, where can I find the proper procedure for panel prep to apply bondo to bare metal?

take the word of someone who is constantly repainting the work of those same weekend bodymen, and use quality material. Good luck with everything.
1987 Caballero
1986 Conquista

Question. How critical is it to use reactive reducer (PPG DDR 1185) with a base coat? I think DDR 1185 is obsolete. But anyway The stuff I had was old and would not thin my Deltron DBU base coat and I used lacquer thinner. The lacquer thinner worked to thin the base coat and I applied a clear coat with fresh harder over that and it seems to be OK. Buffed out fine with a very good gloss. This was a small job, front side of a mirror.

Doug

look around for books and also if you have a community collage near by they have short classes on body work basics that are hands on really help.. lol i will admit right now i was onna thoose back yard guys that used everything outta a spray can..lol i never had rust problems but i could just tell that it wasnt good spray primer is just soo weak. it fades fast and im sure it looses protection just as fast. but im glad i did it tho i have learned alot from being dumb lol...thats whats great about these fourms you get to step back and get your info from other ppls mistakes and get it done the right way the first time! :o

I'm not sure where you can find the proper procedure for bondo application. Maybe it will tell you on the bondo can or you can do like 69 tremec suggested and check the book stores. I can tell you what has worked for me. After you've got your metal pulled back out and as straight as possible, which is a very improtant step, then take a grinder with a 36 or 24 grit grinding disc and grind off all the paint in that area. Then take a dual action sander with a piece of 80 grit sandpaper and feather out the edges of the paint around the repair. The deep scatches left by the grinder will give the bondo a good tooth to hold on to. Spead your bondo, then block sand it smooth and use a good primer surfacer for filling.
To answer Dougs85 question about reactive reducer, I've always been one to go by the book. I use PPG brand paints myself and using their reactive reducers with their DBU (Deltron Base color) and DIU (Deltron interior color) is important. The DDR reducers have been replaced by DT reducers. DT 870, for temps around 70 degrees, DT885 for 85 degrees and DT895 for temps around 95 degrees and so on. Reactive reducers are important because they cause a chemical reaction to make the base coat dry properly. Being a small job like a mirror probably won't hurt anything but I wouldn't want to paint a whole car like that.
Oh, By the way 69 tremec, please don't take it that I'm knocking the backyard bodyman. I'm a backyard mechanic, because I'm surely not a proffesional. I hate doing mechanic work but I have to do it myself and only when I absolutely have to and because I don't want to pay a proffesional to do it. I'm sure it's the same way with a lot of guys doing their own bodywork. But I do the same thing that hagensen 78 is doing, ask around or find someone who can help me. Theres nothing wrong with that. I just try to steer people in the right direction.

I'm not sure where you can find the proper procedure for bondo application. Maybe it will tell you on the bondo can or you can do like 69 tremec suggested and check the book stores. I can tell you what has worked for me. After you've got your metal pulled back out and as straight as possible, which is a very improtant step, then take a grinder with a 36 or 24 grit grinding disc and grind off all the paint in that area. Then take a dual action sander with a piece of 80 grit sandpaper and feather out the edges of the paint around the repair. The deep scatches left by the grinder will give the bondo a good tooth to hold on to. Spead your bondo, then block sand it smooth and use a good primer surfacer for filling.
To answer Dougs85 question about reactive reducer, I've always been one to go by the book. I use PPG brand paints myself and using their reactive reducers with their DBU (Deltron Base color) and DIU (Deltron interior color) is important. The DDR reducers have been replaced by DT reducers. DT 870, for temps around 70 degrees, DT885 for 85 degrees and DT895 for temps around 95 degrees and so on. Reactive reducers are important because they cause a chemical reaction to make the base coat dry properly. Being a small job like a mirror probably won't hurt anything but I wouldn't want to paint a whole car like that.
Oh, By the way 69 tremec, please don't take it that I'm knocking the backyard bodyman. I'm a backyard mechanic, because I'm surely not a proffesional. I hate doing mechanic work but I have to do it myself and only when I absolutely have to and because I don't want to pay a proffesional to do it. I'm sure it's the same way with a lot of guys doing their own bodywork. But I do the same thing that hagensen 78 is doing, ask around or find someone who can help me. Theres nothing wrong with that. I just try to steer people in the right direction.

1987 Caballero
1986 Conquista

Take a look at Eastwood (www.eastwood.com) They carry everything from books and dvds on surface prep and body work to tools and the primers and paints to finish the job.

Steve

Reactive reducers are important because they cause a chemical reaction to make the base coat dry properly.

The label on the can said the reducer had a resin in it to increase the overall performance of the base coat. Nothing about drying.

Doug

Oh, By the way 69 tremec, please don't take it that I'm knocking the backyard bodyman. I'm a backyard mechanic, because I'm surely not a proffesional. I hate doing mechanic work but I have to do it myself and only when I absolutely have to and because I don't want to pay a proffesional to do it. I'm sure it's the same way with a lot of guys doing their own bodywork. But I do the same thing that hagensen 78 is doing, ask around or find someone who can help me. Theres nothing wrong with that. I just try to steer people in the right direction.


no offence taken! :o thats where my roots are on the side yard where my dad would always yell at me for not putting his tools away or breaking somthing or making a mess and killing the grass with what ever type of dangerous chemical i was using lol

Doug, wouldn't you think that increasing the overall performance would include dying properly. The resins in the reducers are left out of the paint for a reason otherwise it would already be in the paint. I think they added the resins to the reducer and not adding it to the paint is because it added to the Paints performance if the resins were added during reduction instead of it already being in the paint. Paint manurfactuers put years of research into coming up with the best, most durable paints they can so they can be #1 in the paint market. Thats why it's best to go by the book and not do what we think will work. I'm not saying that thats what you are doing but I'm just trying to make a point. It's all about chemicals. Paints today are much more complicated then they use to be and much more dangerous to your health. Mixing ratios and using the right stuff when mixing your paint is important. The word "reactive" should have given a clue that it was an important part of the paint mixture since reactive means that it reacts with something to make it work properly. Sorry, I probably could have been more specific and explained it in more detail but my last reply was already a couple of paragraphs long already. Not only that but I guess I hit the send button twice because I see my last reply displayed twice. OOOPs

1987 Caballero
1986 Conquista

Thanks for your reply and information sccountryboy. Yeah, the word reactive should tell us something. Like you said maybe more than just adding a resin. As a young boy I worked with my Dad who was a autobody repairman and painter. MY brother still is, in fact he gave me the reducer.

I have been a professional artist and illustrator for almost 50 years and am now a fine artist. Have always been interested in and studied resins, binders
pigments, thinners and catalytic actions of paints and adhesives. I realize autobody paints and coatings only have a passing relationship to artist paints, but that's were much of it started.

I did not mean to dispute your earlier reply. I think we all can get some benefit discussing modern paints, coatings, and preparation requirements.

Doug

Sure Doug, no problem. I know your reply wasn't meant with a harsh intent and I hope I didn't sound like I was offended. It's always good to discuss ideas, swap experiences and help each other with the problems and questions that we have.

1987 Caballero
1986 Conquista