does anyone have step by step instructions on how to rebuild the front suspension. ie upper and lower ball joints and tie-rods?

that would be nice to have. I need to know how to remove my springs without being hurt. I cant use a floor jack because there is no weight on the front end.

First take the disk brake caliper off the mount bracket and hang it someplace safe where the hose won't get stretched. Take off the grease cap from the hub, axle nut, wheel bearings, and the hub and brake rotor. Then pop the tie rod ball joint out, with a ball joint fork and big hammer, or one of those cute screw type separators. Then loosen, but not remove, the ball joint nuts at top and bottom of the spindle. Just back the nuts off a couple turns and Spring pressure will try to push the ball joints apart, and you might get lucky if you whack the spindle a couple times where the ball joint goes thru. If the ball joints don't pop that way, it's back to the ball joint fork and big hammer. Then a coil spring compressor takes the spring tension off and you can remove the ball joint nuts the rest of the way and take the spindle off. Unbolt the lower arm from the frame and the upper arm pivot shaft (save the shims so they go back the same way). Take the suspension arms to a machine shop to have the old ball joints pressed out and new ones pressed in.
For tie rods, just buy new ones. And you may as well get wheel bearings and seals, since you have the hub off.

thanks for the info. i plan to do this rebuild soon. after 125,000 miles the original parts are pretty worn out!

I do know that an inside-type spring compressor is required. An outside type doesn't fit. If all goes well I'll be doing this in about two weeks.

just finished left side. added new urethane upper and lower control arm bushings, new end links with urethane bushings, new coil spring pads, new upper and lower ball joints. didn't have to use spring compressors.

Anyone found a good supplier with a full kit?
Polygraphite bushings, tie rod ends (inner and outer), idler arm, V-8 with A.C. coil springs, upper and lower ball joints and drag link a COMPLETE kit?
Possibly rear springs too.

Just out of curosity, How did you remove the springs without a spring compressor, nahurry? possibly in a hurry were you?

I would assume a floor jack with drivetrain attached to the car still?

That is dangerous, them spring are under alot of pressure and one wrong slip could be very bad. glad it worked out but sheesh that job freaks me out a little even with having the right tools!

Would also like to add that when I put my springs in with nothing but the frame. I had to use a rachet strap to pull the spring in one direction to get it to line up when torqued down with the coil spring compressor.

Also just a tip, When you go to remove the tie rod ends. Leave the nut on the tie rod but back it off to where it is on there by a few good threads and hit the nut instead of mushrooming your tie rod end if your going to reuse them. same could be done for the ball joints if they are reused

later

yes, the motor was still in the car and i took my time. i ran a chain through the spring and around the frame rail so if the spring took off it wouldn't go far. i placed a jack under the control arm and then unhooked the spindle, and lowered the jack a little at a time. then i positioned myself behind the arm and unbolted the control arm from the frame. i did both sides this way with no problems.

Anyone found a good supplier with a full kit?
Polygraphite bushings, tie rod ends (inner and outer), idler arm, V-8 with A.C. coil springs, upper and lower ball joints and drag link a COMPLETE kit?
Possibly rear springs too.
These guys have full kit
http://www.p-s-t.com/

I've had the PST Super Front End Kit on my car for eight years with no problems. I also used their springs,sway bar,and front end parts. Be sure to get a good set of shocks to complete the set up. I used Edelbrock IAS .

yes, the motor was still in the car and i took my time. i ran a chain through the spring and around the frame rail so if the spring took off it wouldn't go far. i placed a jack under the control arm and then unhooked the spindle, and lowered the jack a little at a time. then i positioned myself behind the arm and unbolted the control arm from the frame. i did both sides this way with no problems.

Safety chain! :thumbsup: I like that!