Instr. cluster dash lights,removed cluster, checked connectors, replaced sockets and lamps , reinstalled . When you have a extremely humid weather the fuse for the intr. cluster takes out the dash lights. The headlight switch was also replaced. My question is the problem in the fuse block , is the fuse block repairable , OEM available, aftermarket ? How hard to take out fuse block ? Thanks !

Not sure I remember on a gen 5, Ted. Typically the fuse block is part of the dash harness. There is a connector at the firewall that joins the fuse block with the engine harness. Usually one bolt in the middle on the engine side and you can seperate it there. This is also a area to look for your short. Replacement would be the block and dash harness, I would think they would be easy to find in the aftermarket, Painless or some outfit like that would have them.

Thanks for replay Canted.. Was looking at wiring diagram at seat belt warning indicator maybe something to do with this problem . ? Has anyone had an issues with the belt buzzer wiring ? Thanks !

Instr. cluster dash lights,removed cluster, checked connectors, replaced sockets and lamps , reinstalled . When you have a extremely humid weather the fuse for the intr. cluster takes out the dash lights. The headlight switch was also replaced. My question is the problem in the fuse block , is the fuse block repairable , OEM available, aftermarket ? How hard to take out fuse block ? Thanks !

I would say that the fuse block is definitely NOT your problem. The fuse block is merely a junction box (or connection point) for your vehicle wiring. There are no moveable parts and there are really only 2 ways a fuse block can go "bad" The first is by using aftermarket spade connectors that slip ove the fuse to power other things, these connectors spread out the female end of the connector in the fuse block housing, this would result in the spade not being able to hold the fuse anymore. The second thing is moisture corroding the terminals and not allowing a good connection.
Your problem is from fuses blowing, this is caused by either a short in the series of wiring connected to the fuse or from using too low of a rated fuse.
I would check all of the wiring that is coming off of the fuse you keep blowing. The Instrument Cluster Gauges and Instrument Panel Lights are 2 seperate circuits, one powered by ignition and the other is constantly hot. If the only things you have tinkered with are the cluster and the headlight switch I would start with those. Especially the cluster, the printed circuit board on the back is very thin and fragile and after a lot of years can become brittle. There is a small thin layer of plastic that covers the traces, check to make sure some part of it did not get scratched away or is now exposed. When it gets humid you could be getting small drops of condensation that are forming on your circuit board, remember water conducts electricity so if a small drop of water were to drip/run across a 12 volt source and a ground source at the same time it will create a short causing a fuse to blow.
Looking at the wiring diagram there are quite a few things powered from the Gauges Fuse in the block you could also check. Look for a pink wire with a black trace, not only are your gauges powered by that fuse but your vehicle speed buffer (if equipped with cruise control) your air diverter valve, egr solenoid, air select valve, mixture control solenoid, and light driver module, all of which are eventually connected to the ECM.
The instrument lamps fuse is directly fed from a dark green wire coming off the headlamp switch, from the fuse block it is a grey wire that powers all of the instrument panle lights as well as the radio lights, cig lighter/ash tray light, a/c control panel light, and windshield wiper light (if you have the dash mounted switch)
Hope this helps to solve your problem.