I am putting a 350 in my elky and it has a stock 267 in it right now. I have some questions

Can i take the brackets for alt/PS pump and use them on the 350?
Can i use the waterpump?
If not, WHAT can i swap from it?(the 267 to 350)
Whats a good quality HEI distributor?
And if i can use the pulleys from it? or do you suggest getting new pulleys?

Any advice would be appreciated..

-Eric

Eric,

The 267 and the 350 both measure the same externally, so you will have no problems at all swapping brackets, pulleys, etc. to the new engine. The water pump can also be used. As for a good quality distributor, I would suggest a stock item, or MSD. Stay as far away from Proform as you can, I have one of their distributors in our '76 Chevy 1/2-ton, and it's pure junk (had to replace the control module 4-5 times in a 1 year time period. Hope this helps you out.

Charles

Did the HEI swap on my 283 with a rebuilt Autozone unit, turned out to be a piece of junk. Went out and bought an Accel billet HEI from O'reilly's for $114.00 and tax. This unit came without the coil, swapped out the stock coil to the Accel and haven't had a problem since the install. The new Accel has adjustable vacuum advance and comes with the recurve springs.

Kevin

The brackets should bolt up. The waterpump should also but unless it's almost new, I would get a new one. The fuel pump, distributor, motor mounts and all kinds of small stuff will bolt up. The distributor is computer controlled(no vacuum advance can) so if you want to keep that crap you'll have to reuse or get a new computer controlled dist. Same with the carb and intake. All those vacuum hoses and electric gizmos will have to hook up somewhere too. OR trash all that stuff, get an Accel blueprint dist. with vacuum advance. A holley or edelbrock carb (650 cfm or so) and an aftermarket dual plane aluminum intake. The next problem is your transmission, if it's a metric it won't last long behind a 350. Get a TH350 or 700r4. After you beef up your motor and trans the rear end will blow up next. Just log on to elco central and look around or ask and you will get lots of help :)

I thought my car was computer controlled :mad: , What will i all have to get rid of to undue this , I am getting a new dist, carb, intake, tranny
I might run the TH200 for about a couple weeks, while i'm getting/building up the TH350..about the rearend is their anything you can do to strengthen the 7.5 weak rearend? I know direct swaps are from GN's and A body 12 bolts with a SSM kit, but..i mean i really don't want to spend money on another rearend,

Sure your 7.5 will last forever if you roll out of a stop light/track then punch it so it doesn't hook, but what fun is that?

I plan on getting a 600-650 edelbrock carb vacuum seconderies,electric choke most likely

What will i all need(vacuum wise?)

-Eric

Anybody :cry:
I just need to know what i all need to rid of to get rid of smog crap and computer controlled crap EVERYTHING, i dont' want anything computer controlled, and what would i all need to keep for a vacuum carb?

Thank you for your time

-Eric

the smog crap just take off. im guessing you will not be using the stock exhaust manifold once the 350 is in. what i did on mine (i still have the stock manifold) was i put plugs in the holes where the AIR lines go into the manifold. i pulled off the pump and everything with it. any vacum lines you pull of put a cap on. as for the computer stuff. i have no idea. but im sure with all of these smart guys one of them can help you. mine runs loads better without the pollution pump(mostly b/c exhaust was leaking into the cab, it was very sleepy but very fun)

the two main things you will need will be a new carb and a new dist. to get rid of the computer oh and if you don't switch trannies the your old one if its a lock up will not lock up without the computer i think thats pretty much it then just remove all the wiring from the computer that goes into the engine compartment and remove the computer.

Before you change the tranny, check with your local trans shop. I am running a lock up trans (700R4) in my car that is not (the tranny that is) computer controlled. Most of the speed shops (including Summit) sell a wire harness that allows you to have a lock up trans in a non-computer car.

I would just work like I was putting the engine in a 77 or older Elky. I'd remove the computer and any trace of it. Any wiring you can't remove, label it so later if you work on it you'll know what they went to then cut it back as short as possible.

You should be able to go to a Junk Yard and get a Serpentine set up off a newer SBC and use that. New vehicles have no Smog Pumps that I know of. My 93 doesn't. The Alternator off new vehicles put out more amps my 93 puts out 105 Amps. If you don't do that then you can use a Alternator from an 86 Caviler V6 with only the pulley to change to v-belt. It puts out 95 Amps. I use one for my 76. Lots of extra power there for the newer electronics.

Pick any "Pre-computerized" year the schematics for all years are now on this web site so devising a better harness shouldn't be a problem. As far as that 7.5", well about all you can do is replace the gears and maybe kit it with new bearings and seals. A good set of Richmond Gears will give it a little bit more strength but not a whole bunch. It should be able to put up with at least 350 to 375 Hp and close to a constant 375 Lb./Ft. of torque.

The Camaro with the LS1 has that same size rear end, I am pretty sure, but it’s a light vehicle. So depending on just how much Hp you end up with you could be in ok shape. Look at it this way if you do end up with 350 to 375 Hp that rear end will absorb less and give more at the pavement.

I rebuilt mine with 4.10:1 behind a 700R4 with a power plant producing in the range of 420 Hp and over 400 Lb/ft. of tq. I even put a Power Trax locking differential in it. I figure if and when it goes I'll put a better one in, until then I'll pound it just like it doesn't matter. Its just the way I look at things.

If everything is right the 700R4 will absorb about 15% of the torque just to make it turn so the actual torque at the rear tires will be at least that much less. But I'll see how it goes. I don't think I'll tear it up (Rear End) but it is very possible.

Just some thoughts.

Where exactly is the computer located at? :cry:
I will be running a non-computerized TH350 with possible shiftkit+floor shifter with about 2500-2800 give or take. I will be driving this every day in high school.
I know i have to notch the crossmember for true duals. I will be running full length headers.
So i can trace any vacuum line, yank, rip, unbolt all the vacuum stuff.
I have some questions to.
What about crank balancer?
Flywheel?
Pulleys?
I will be using the stock radiator as of now. I will upgrade to a junkyard one probably if i can find a decent one from something?

Thanks for the suggestions/advice guys i appreciate it.

-Eric

ERK sounds like your undertaking a rather large project. First you will be needing vacuum to operate some of the controls like the vacuum advance on the distributor especially if you want to make this drivable on the street. Also I beleive your heating and AC controls are vacumm controlled. For the computer look on the passenger side behind the kick panel below the glove box. It should be there. The kick panel on that side should be two pieces. As far as pulleys and such, I recommend you find a single donor car to take all the mounting brackets off of as well as the pulley. It will make it much easier when you go to bolt everything together and when you buy drive belts. Buy the balancer for the type engine you are putting in the vehicle. A stock balancer can be bought for about $75 last I looked.

Thats about the only thing i really dont' understand is ALL the vacuum lines, I'm running a mechanical carb so that doensn't need any vacuum lines. I am deleting A/C which means heat goes too. So that leaves me with the distributo. I won't be able to get a donor car but i do have access to a couple junkyards that i can scrounge around in..any specific vechicles to look for
Or could i just find any older style car/truck with a 350 and start taking stuff off of that.

-Eric

Exactly. Find one vehicle at the junk yard with the right size motor to pull all the brackets and pulleys from. That way everything will line up when you go put the belts on. Also a good idea to make sure the water pump is the same (ie.long or short nose). Disconnecting the AC is ok but I would leave the heater alone. If your car ever starts to overheat, you can always turn the heater on high to get rid of some of the excessive engine heat. If you ever have cruised the Woodward Dream Cruise you will know what I mean by overheating. Does get warm in the car, but it saves the motor. I can appreciate you running a mechanical carb, but the distributor still needs vacuum for the advance. For a street machine I highly recommend vacuum advance.

Forgot to mention. If you already have a 350 trans, look in the back of the trans where the extension housing bolts on. There is a small circular can on the pass side. This is a vacuum modulator. The trans uses this in conjunction with engine vacuum for the transmission shift points. Again, you will be needing engine vacuum to operate this.

As you start to remove parts from your engine compartment, you are going to find a round black canister (looks kinda like a coffe can) at the drivers side front in the same location as the battery which is on the passenger side. This is a evaporative fuel canister for the fuel tank. While this is an emissions item Iwould recommend you leave this in place. Its purpose is to allow the fuel tank to vent. The vapors in the fuel tank will cause the fuel tank to over pressurize if they are not vented. Go back through some of the old forums on fuel tanks and read about some of the problems others have experienced with over pressurazation of the fuel tank after they had performed an engine swap. The lines for this canister should all go back to the fuel tank. So it is not costing you any horse power to leave them in place. As you build this vehicle/engine it would be wise for you to build it smart. Some emissions / vacuum things should be left in place to prevent troubles down the road. While we all like to think our cars are fast remember there is always someone out there with a car that is faster.

Eric - I just found this thread on your engine swap and if you go through with eliminating your Smog/Emission pieces would you be interested in selling them?

Emission testing has started in my area of PA :mad: and my 267 engine had it all removed and I need to put the stuff back on or my EC will be sitting in the garage for the rest of its life as it will not pass state inspection. Gotta do what ya gotta do.... My inspection comes due in May.

I need everything - AIR tubes, AIR pump, EGR, hoses, etc.

Jim - Central PA

The intake manifold has a vacuum port just behind the carb. This is used for the power brakes, tranny modulator and to run the heater controls. The carb has vacuum ports on it to run the distributor. A vacuum secondary carb is self contained and needs no separate vac. lines.

I need to know first where and what i need to remove for emmisions stuff.
THe only motors i've worked on is basically drag motors which don't have vacuum anything basically. And it's all mechanical stuff so to say.
About a/c heat, i can delete A/C but not heat, i need to know how/where to do this?
What about vacuum lines? Anybody have a diagram/ a place to show me all the stuff i mentioned above to show me where and what they all go to. So i can delete some stuff but not the important stuff as in powerbrakes/distributor.

Thanks for all the advice/suggestions, anything else would be appreciated.

-Eric

I need to know first where and what i need to remove for emmisions stuff.
THe only motors i've worked on is basically drag motors which don't have vacuum anything basically. And it's all mechanical stuff so to say.
About a/c heat, i can delete A/C but not heat, i need to know how/where to do this?
What about vacuum lines? Anybody have a diagram/ a place to show me all the stuff i mentioned above to show me where and what they all go to. So i can delete some stuff but not the important stuff as in powerbrakes/distributor.

Basically i need to know where/what i need to do to delete A/C and delete a Vacuum carb but keep all the other vacuum lines.

Thanks for all the advice/suggestions, anything else would be appreciated.

-Eric

:-(

-Eric

Erik- your best bet at this stage of the game is to get a shop manual for the car. You should be able to get one at the public library. I would recommend you become familar with the various systems in the car before you tear into it. For example- the AC system is under very high pressure. You do not want to open it up until you evacuate the system. Bear it mind it is illegal to vent the AC to the atmosphere. You must use the proper equipment (evac pump that reclaims the old freon) to do this. This is about the only real danger in what you are doing.

You state somewhere that you are in high school. Have you taken a auto shop class? Most of these classes will allow you to work on your own vehicle in class. Another alternative is to take some auto shop classes through the local junior college. Having an understanding of how things work before tackling a project like you are attempting will make things go much smoother. Just my .02 cents worth on this. Good luck to you.

Autoshop is to easy here..I konw transmission/engine/rearend info but not accesory type stuff really :(.
I am offered autoshop/welding for a 3 hour class next year.
I am not taking auto i am going to take welding.

-Eric

Lets see is we can make this easy. As far as the AC is concerned. What you see under the hood is what you will be removing. The compressor, lines, dryer, etc. Just remember to evacuate the line first because they are under hi pressure. Generally speaking the emissions items that you will be removing will be belt driven, ie air pump. These will all be coming out when you pull the motor. As for the vacuum items they to will be coming out when you pull the motor. If you look at the radiator support there should be a sticker with the vacuum routing. Aslo is a sticker with the drive belt routing. When you install the new motor the only vacuum lines you will be hooking up is for the power brakes, pcv valve, and vacuum advance. The pcv and vacumm advance hook up to the carb and the power brakes directly to the intake manifod. I assume you will be running headers so these (headers) will take care of any emission tubes that may have been part of the exhaust manifold. For the fuel evap. system just follow the plastic lines that go from the fuel tank forward. Leave these things alone. They are to keep your fuel tank from overpressurizing. I think your car has two main wiring harnesses, 1 for the computer, the other for the engine. The engine wire harness will be reused. This has the wires for the instrument guages, electric choke, oil pressure sender, alternator, and engine temp sender. I think that is all of them. When you get to that point in the project and need help post your question on the forum and i am sure someone will help. Also my advice is not to use 2nd hand parts when builing the motor. This means specifically the cam and lifters. The lifters and cam lobes wear together as a pair. Unless you know exactly what cam lobe the lifter can from you are looking for trouble. That is from 8 years experience as a failure analysis engineer doing nothing but internal engione parts. Good luck on your project.