OK, I think I've found the el camino I want. There are several things that need repairing, most of which are minor.

There are a few things I'm not feeling that great about and so I wanted to run them by you guys and you tell me if these are red flags or tolerable flaws.

1. While I saw no rust under the car or around the fenders, I was able to contact the car's mechanic who indicated to me that during it's restoration there was some rust in the wheel well under the front fender. This was grinded out and the entire frame was coated with this black rust preventing substance (I forget the word he used - firewall??)

2. I couldn't detect any rear window leaks per se but there were spots in that general area that did leak (it was raining that day).
They were:
a. There was no chrome lining the rim of the bed (one of the cosmetic things it needs) instead, the guy put little snap buttons in around the bed for a vinyl bed cover. These buttons were held in place by small screws which could be seen behind the seats in the back beneath the window. These leaked.
b. In addition, to the left and right and top aspect of the rear window, there are little holes, presumably for a piece of chrome trim to be placed. when a hose was sprayed at these holes, I could see water streaming down along the back wall of the cab behind the seats, also below the rear window.

please tell me if these are reasonably fixable or if I should forget about this car altogether

please tell me if these are reasonably fixable or if I should forget about this car altogether

First of all...WELCOME!!! You've come to the right place for your Elky questions!!!

ANY problem is "fixable"!!! Some more economicaly than others. You didn't say what year the elky is, or what the askin' price is..so it's kinna hard to advise ya on whether it'd be "worth fixing"...but none of those problems are really major ones...ESPECIALLY if you'd be giving it a paint job!

It sounds as though you've looked really carefully around and inside the car. What you've described doesn't sound serious and can be repaired...but it should be repaired correctly. I would weld the holes closed. Now since you put all that effort in and around the car, put as much effort underneath the car. Jack the car up, put it on jackstands, get your butt on a creeper, and check down one side of the car and then the other paying close attention to the frame and the bodymounts for any damage or corrosion. Even better would be to have it put on a rack so you can really concentrate on your inspection. Replacing rusted body to frame mounts is not easy and can be expensive, also closely check where the coil springs sit up against the frame in the rear.

It's hard to tell where you are describing the water running in around the rear window. If the Elky is a 78 - 87, the metal around the rear window has a tendency to rust due to dirt and leaves getting trapped under the aluminum window trim (I live on the East Coast where this is a real issue). It wouldn't hurt to take off the window molding and see if there has been repair work done. You can usually tell if this is an issue (before removing moldings) by concentrating a hose into the molding around the window and see how much dirt runs out.

Regardless, these problems can be overcome with proper rust repair - cut out rust and weld new metal in. Grinding and adding Bondo over rust will NOT stop it from rusting again - it merely slows and hides the process a little, so check for Bondo in any areas that are rusty / leaking (sometimes people do "quickie" repairs to mask problems - just to unlaod a car).

A couple more places to look for rust under the car is the floor behind the driver's seat and the "channels" in the body where the frame rails run behind the rocker panels.

If the car has come from out west (Texas / Arizona), where there is little or no rust on the car, it is a great thing for the body, but due to the sun being so strong, weatherstripping and window sealing has a tendency to dry up and split which could also be a cause of water leaks. This includes the body, especially in the bed right over the floor compartment where the spare tire is stored.

oh yeah, sorry.

it's a 67 and the asking price is 8000. Is there a way to post pictures?

the leaks aren't from the window but from holes in metal around the window - from the screws holding the buttons (for the bed cover) in place along the bottom and from holes around the tops and sides of window (i'm assuming for the placement of some kind of chrome trim).

Sounds like it needs alittle work. :-) Welcome to a great site.

thanks for all the great info. you were all very helpful.

one more qustion (I hope it's not too broad):

this rust issue is kind of freaking me out because i'm getting the impression that it is very serious and can be hidden by the seller. So assuming that everything else is in good working order, how tolerant should I be of rust? According to the car's sole mechanic (who participated in it's restoration), the only rust he encountered was under the front fender and was treated in the manner described in my previous post ( i think bondo was the word he used). The mechanic was honest in describing the rust problem in general; he said it's kinda like cancer in the sense that it can be treated but will never go away. In this regard I'd probably compare it to HIV or Hepatitis C.
Suppose the rust was limited in location and extent as previously mentioned, is this amount tolerable?
Now when I take a closer look under the car, How much rust is tolerable? Is there a zero tolerance policy with rust? Is this even realistic with an old car?
What do you do if the frame is coated with that bondo stuff? how do you know if it's there for prevention of future rust or concealment of existing rust?
I know ultimately I'll have to go with my gut, but anything you all can do to make my gut decesion more educated is much appreciated.

When there is a question of Bondo repairs, take a magnet [one of those stick on ones] from your refrigerator door with you and check the body panels all over. It isn't very strong and it will fall off when you place it on bondo repairs.

It sounds like you are being optimistically cautious and I believe it is a good thing. The mechanic was correct in some ways about rust. If it was cut out and replaced with a welded in panel, painted properly and undercoated from behind, chances are it will last a long time, maybe indefinitely. Unfortunately, he is mostly correct in saying that it would probably come back. The vehicle itself is the problem in that it has a poor water drainage area (like the bottom of the fender you described). This factory design defect causes dirt and leaves to stick in this area and rust follows.

If this car is really nice, chances are it will not see road-salt or a lot of bad weather while you own it. You will probably keep it clean including all the tough to reach spots (maybe even covered or garaged) in which case rust will be slowed or stopped.

Definitely use the magnet as described previously for Bondo areas. Even in repaired areas like dents, the Bondo should not exceed 1/8" thick, although some will say 1/4". The magnet will tell . . .

Also - get as much information about the car's previous life. Where did it come from? How long was it there? Are there any photos of the restoration? 64-67 Elkys on the East Coast have a tendency to rust in the cab and body mount areas badly. If it came from the west, it could be a clean machine.

If you are still doubting, bring the car to a good reputable body shop (that the owner does not know) and pay them to inspect the car for all the repairs that have been made. I would rather pay 50-100 bucks for an inspection than thousands later in repairs that I could not see.

Good Luck on the car . . .

All problems can be fixed but cost can be an issue in some cases.

When I got my 76 it had holes drilled in the cab where big nuts and large washers were used to hold up some "Astroturf" that was draped over the rear cab wall and back floorboard. Really crappy stiff. I had a patch that the "Bondo" was cracking on the driver side cab in the rear where it come up to the roof. At one time I think someone, no I know, someone replaced the rear quarter panel. Most of the work was good enough but the place where the top met the new panel was brazed together sort of. The replacement piece had been bent down because it was too long and instead of the guy cutting it and welding it correctly he bent it in and then brazed it part of the way and slathered on a gob of Bondo to cover it up. It was exposed from the back to surface air from inside the cab and over time it rusted the metal under the bondo and the bondo started cracking and was beginning to come off.

I had to repair all that and re-do a bunch of the work. It has some rust on the driver side rear wheel well and the lip around the wheel well had to be re-fabricated and welded back in place. The floorboards behind the seat was cancerous rust from the bed / body seams leaking under the chrome. I had to go in a use some seam sealer in the panel joints to keep out the water and replace the floor pan behind the passenger seat. Someone had cut and spliced wires under the dash to the point that you almost couldn't tell what was what. That is a big problem in any old car watch out for that.

Mine came through it fine and is back to a point where those are no longer a problem nor will they be in the future. The engine and transmission were both needing to be replaced. The engine was froze up. It had a intake bolt in #3 cylinder. The pan on the transmission was smashed flat on the front to about 1/4 of the way back. Most of the bolts holding the tranny to the engine were mission but the two at the bottom were well over torque, I guess to compensate for the missing ones.

All this was done by a Mechanic, the crap and damage that is. His stickers were all over the truck. He later threw me out of his shop when I went by to speak with him about some of the "repairs".

So any problem can be fixed it boils down to how much work do you feel like doing to have the vehicle you want.

Howdy folks- First time poster here..

I got my 79 El Cam in September for $750. And it made it back about 250 miles from where I found it with no problems. I've had to replace the water pump, thermostat and I'm replacing the alternator tomorrow; but it runs well. It's got the 267 in it.

However it's got about four or five spots of pretty bad rust on it. Scares me, but for $750 couldn't pass it up. The previous owner had installed a moon roof on it, and I think that has caused some drainage problems which have led to rust in some unusual spots.

On the left and right side, where the fornt windshield post meets the hood and door joint (don't know the term) there is rust that has eaten about half-way thru the post. On both the driver and passenger doors, there are spots of rust on the bottom which are about 2" by 1" that are eaten thru on the outside. The hood is currently primer and is one of the scoop hoods and it has a couple of rust spots starting on it. The tailgate is primer as well, but shows no visible signs of rust.

The front grill is gone also from the last guy hitting a wild turkey (probably after drinking some Wild Turkey at that). And I have noticed that the passenger side carpet gets wet every time it rains (i've read many posts about that.) Also, the A/C isn't hooked up at all. And there are the snaps along the trim that go all the way up the trim above the back window.

I really love the ride, and can't seem to get the chicks out of it, but I really don't have too much money/time/expertise/tooling/know-how to do it up right (yet). I know I need to get the rust problem fixed before anything else, but how much am I looking to spend on that? I could probably get a small loan to invest some $$ into it, but where do I start and is it worth it, or should I try to find another one with that money and keep this one for a donor?

Any suggestions would be helpful. Thanks

Ethan

Ethan - God has smiled upon you! If you got a drivable Elky for $750 and can't keep the chicks out of it, don't change a thing! Don't tamper with success. Just make sure the engine keeps running so you can continue to make more new friends.


But seriously, with the sound of those rust spots you mentioned, they appear to be very expensive repairs. You might consider saving your extra money as you get it, keep having fun in the old Elky and wait til you find another one without major rust, and then restore the second at your leisure. Having the best of both worlds. If someone sold it to you for $750 and you have found these major items without digging into it, chances are that there are more problems with the frame and underbody that might prevent any serious restoration. Get a knowledgeable friend to put it up on a lift for a few hours and poke around and get a better handle on the magnitude of the work ahead. Then make a careful decision on whether this car is worth being anything more than a "chick magnet." Best of luck.

Thanks John. Sounds like good advice to me.

I kind of figured I wouldn't be able to get it back to ideal shape when I bought it. I just want a clean machine- grandpa style, and I guess it sucks now that I have one and can't really make it so... or can't make it that clean w/o spending way too much money...

Having made the choice not to try to restore- How much you reckon it would be to sand her down and do an el cheapo paint job myself on her?

I just got my first baby 85 conquista and my wife said i'm in heaven. I spend more time with it than her, even though she bought it for me for christmas. It is a clean rust free ride but the interior needs a little help. Most people would have put in new floor mats and drove it forever. Not me, MR make it look like it's brand new.
The paint job is the most important part of your car's look and you get what you pay for. The $299 Earl Shaib or Macco never looks good and I have tied to paint my own for the past 20 years with the best equipment and it never seems to turn out. I usually stripem down with paint remover and have a local on the side body guy do it at his house for a real good price. He'll sprayem in the booth at his bosses shop. It turns out better and you know what's under your car's paint and that it was stripped all the way down. But I do have to agree...if the chicks like it don't you dare touch it. I'm the oppsite from you. I have more money than time and I love to play with my new toy but can't seem to get near it. But then I'm an old guy. 8)

Congrats on the Conquista. Sounds like it's gonna be soemthing special.

I wish we could meet somewhere in the middle on the money issue. You know I'd be happy to take some of that off your hands...

I don't know what I'll do about the paint job. What type of stripper do you use when you're prepping for the paint job?

I'm telling you, she don't look that hot right now, and I think the only reason that the chicks dig it so much right now is cuz what I'm haulin around all over town- ass. So I think I'm gonna strip it, and primer it all myself, then I'll try for either a Maaco crap job, or a do it myself type job- maybe I'll even get a little creative with it...

Anyway, something's got to be done on the hood/tailgate, cuz the rust is beginning to form all over the primer and I can't just let it grow. I appreciate your comments though, and I'm serious about the money thing :-D But then again I'm just a young Buck.

First congratulations to you both on the acquisitions.

If you know some about paint then you probably know that most primer doesn't protect the metal from moisture if that is all you have on the truck. Sealing Primer does but most average Joe's figure "Paint is Paint" and spray it and then drive it that way wile the body slowly rusts under the primer. Just a terrible thing to happen to an Elky.

I've fixed some pretty nasty rust problems on cars before. If you really like the Camino then maybe you should get a few estimates from some places on just what it will cost to have the rust spots repaired. It could surprise you on how cheap some of that type of work will run you. Find a guy with a welder and time, not necessarily a body shop, see what he'll do it for. Then a little elbow grease and a small 4" offset dia grinder and some good primer and start at it. Hey what do you have to loose anyway? It can only get better, you sound like you know a little bit about painting.

The key to most really great paint jobs is prep work and lots of elbow grease. The 267 I'd dump. Good luck to you both on your projects.

Thanks Pete.

I need all of the optimism I can get. If it's not a body shop, who should I look around for, i.e. how can I find the wleder with some time on his hands? I realize that you don't live anywhere near, but any suggestions as to what to look for would be appreciated.

If I am going to keep it and fix the rust, I'll dump the 267, but if I can't get the rust fixed, won't be worth it to swap.

I did realize the primer allows moisture, but I got it with the primer hood and tailgate and I want to get this rust problem mitigated before I spend any time money on the rest. I do appreciate your post though, and hopefully will be able to find someone that can fix teh rust problems for cheap. I hope to post some pictures of what I'm talkin about very shortly.

Pete is right on the money...you'll have to metal etch the bare metal first. That's why it's good to find a professional paint supply store (not house paint), look in the phone book or on line or go to a couple of body shops and ask who they get their supplies from. Rust is a bad dog and Pete is right about getting it fixed correctly. I'm lucky in sunny CA we aint got no rust. 8)
They need spell check in this message board.