IF I DECIDE TO GO TO A TURNKEY 350 CRATE MOTOR, FOR MY 84SS 305-4BL -AUTO WHAT PROBLEMS CAN I EXPECT ON DOING THIS SWAP ? BARRY-MARYLAND

Depends on where you get the motor. Honestly I wouldn't get a 350 turnkey when there are plenty of 383 for almost nothing more and the 383 is a much better motor but thats your choice. Get whatever motor from a reliable place (NOT Advance and Autozone) otherwise you'll just get ripped off

Would depend on what you consider problems...not having an engine hoist or tools could be a problem. As far as the motors, the 305 and 350 are identical externally so everything off your 305 will bolt to the 350 if your looking for just a simple upgrade to a newer and bigger motor. If your looking to eliminate emissions, install headers, change the carb and intake, etc etc etc, that depends on your level of experience...if your question is "do I need to whack stuff with a 10lb sledge hammer to get it to fit?" the answer is no you don't.

I was eyeballing the GM Performance Catalog and when I got to the 330HP/350CI turn-key engine that is where I stopped. . . . On the internet these engines are all over the place, moneywise, but when I checked out crate motors a couple of years ago, buying one from a local Chevy dealer the price was much lower. . . . . The cost of rebuilding the 305 is almost as much as the new complete 330/350, and as I now own a Toyota Yaris grocery getter, my Elky plans also now have changed. . . . El-C was my daily driver, and gas milage WAS a consideration, but her body wouldn't survive another round of Maryland Winter salt. . . . I can now put her in the garage where I will start a total chassis on re-do, including a H.O. engine. . . . Here in Maryland the law says: "vehicles must remain as manufactured" butt now the Elky is an "antique" and doesn't have to pass emission inspections. . . . An on the next go-round tagwise, it will be licensed as a "street-rod" and then all emission laws are off and so is the catalytic converter and on with headers, dual pipes with glass packs ! {:o) Barry-Maryland

Well I'm going to convert my engine to burn LP to offset your emissions output. :P

Doug

LP????. sounds like you got some jacked up laws in Maryland. one of the resons i went with a 4th gen over a 5th gen is b/c of the emissions here in California i'd rathere not mess with the emissions laws. i dont got to worrie about a thing now :P . geting 330 hp out of a 350 sounds decent for a brand new motor how much do expect to pay for it? my original 327 is a great running strong motor so on the side i plan to build up a 350 starting with just a seasoned block put a stroker kit in bore it .40 over. i never built a motor but i plan to do my best plus my cousin just graduated from UTI so he'll do most the building i'll be helping. i expect to dish out any where from 3,500 to 4,500 on it may be more i hear EFI is pricey we'll see. i hope to get 500+ hp out of it then throw a blower on it. my goal is to build up (in time) a one mean sob of a elky that will destroy new mustangs, chargers , corvettes, G8's, challenger, camaro's, M5's, any srt8, and forget about the rice burners i hate thos little turds. soon i will be a force to be reckoned with lol :lol: .

The catalog doesn't give prices, but buying from a GM "performance dealer" is a whole lot cheaper than the internet prices. . . I just looked at my catalog and it was a 2000 version. . . I thought I last checked with the local dealer about 5 years ago . . . The price 8 years ago was around $ 1,350.00 I'm afraid to guess what it might be now. . . . But for a complete NEW engine, it has to be better then rebuilding and cheaper. . . Barry-Maryland

LP????. sounds like you got some jacked up laws in Maryland. one of the resons i went with a 4th gen over a 5th gen is b/c of the emissions here in California i'd rathere not mess with the emissions laws. i dont got to worrie about a thing now :P . geting 330 hp out of a 350 sounds decent for a brand new motor how much do expect to pay for it? my original 327 is a great running strong motor so on the side i plan to build up a 350 starting with just a seasoned block put a stroker kit in bore it .40 over. i never built a motor but i plan to do my best plus my cousin just graduated from UTI so he'll do most the building i'll be helping. i expect to dish out any where from 3,500 to 4,500 on it may be more i hear EFI is pricey we'll see. i hope to get 500+ hp out of it then throw a blower on it. my goal is to build up (in time) a one mean sob of a elky that will destroy new mustangs, chargers , corvettes, G8's, challenger, camaro's, M5's, any srt8, and forget about the rice burners i hate thos little turds. soon i will be a force to be reckoned with lol :lol: .

Well SORRY but you still gotta smog your 4'th gen unless its a 75! LP I belive hes refering to Liquid Propane. Good luck trying to mess with the newer vehicles..Mustangs arent a problem i beat a GT 5spd before...Bad driver most likely! Hey I'll run ya in my Subie you gotta watch out for us too. Cause I DARE you to run a 4'th gen Supra with the 2JZGTE engine with light mods. GOOD LUCK 8) BTW thats a tiwn turbo'ed inline 6 cylinder engine too.

BACK TO THE TOPIC I say just CALL your dealer and ask for prices whats the point of guessing what it is now than it was 5 year ago? MOST likely prices have changed. And installing new engines is always a problem cause you MIGHT think you've done everything but theres always that last electrical connection, vacuum, or battery cable you forget to put back on. The GM crates are good engines no lie about that! Rebuilding is for an enthusiast now a days that want to learn more about the engine and just to have the simple factor "I built that engine with ym BARE HANDS SUCKER!" That kinda deal! Its usually CHEAPER to buy a engine thats already built.

Barry, I don't know a lot about engines with a blower, however I saw a chevelle with one, at the 2009 All GM autofest
,and the guy driving was having a rough time. It ran very poor at low speed. I'm sure there are a lot of things besides a blower that will give youn all the power you can stand. Back in the sixties , the state of Rhode Island had a law that limited the height of a hood scoop. I made one that was adjustable, I never had the opening height measured , but I sure got a lot of hard looks, by the state troopers. High HP and Torque can destroy a lot of things. Take it easy for now and when you are as old as some of the rest of us, build a destroyer. I'm 67 and am just getting started on mine.
Ted Dubree

Yeah, first ya get an engine with mucho HP and torque, then replace the transmission you tore up, then the drive shaft, 'cause you snapped a U -joint, and then a tough rear end, 'cause you stripped the ring gear....:nanawrench::smileyb::smileyb:

Yeah, first ya get an engine with mucho HP and torque, then replace the transmission you tore up, then the drive shaft, 'cause you snapped a U -joint, and then a tough rear end, 'cause you stripped the ring gear....:nanawrench::smileyb::smileyb:
Isnt that how it is done?:poke:

I wonder how these guys know about all these broken parts. :dontknow:

LMAO!

:nanawrench::nanawrench:

I was thinking about rebuilding and went to the PAW site, they used to have a lot of good rebuild kits, used them when I rebilt my GTO, but know they are mopar only. anybody know of a comparable company.

The catalog doesn't give prices, but buying from a GM "performance dealer" is a whole lot cheaper than the internet prices. . . I just looked at my catalog and it was a 2000 version. . . I thought I last checked with the local dealer about 5 years ago . . . The price 8 years ago was around $ 1,350.00 I'm afraid to guess what it might be now. . . . But for a complete NEW engine, it has to be better then rebuilding and cheaper. . . Barry-Maryland
Not too much higher now, comparable with building one that needs pistons and machine work. http://sdparts.com/category/gm-goodwrench-350-crate-engine-and-engine-kits

snaggle tooth...i've got to politely disagree with you on your cheaper comment. you can build an engine considerably cheaper and get more power....the key is doing the work yourself and buying the parts at reasonable prices, shop around. with that being said, not everyone has that kind of mechanical ability or all of the tools required. the engine in my wife's hobby stock race car cost less than $600 to build, she runs less cubes than a lot of the competition and can outrun the majority of them.

barry, i recommend doing what you are most comfortable with. take your time when choosing and installing. check and recheck and you'll come out just fine! good luck!

Barry, I just last week got the GM crate long block from our local Chevy dealer for $1787.00. 350/260hp. That's delivered on the loading dock and the local SC sales tax; 3yr/100,000 warranty serviced by the local dealer. I'm now adding intake, carb, bal, flexplate etc. Total new cost , running, less than $2500. I'm doing my own work. just a thought// Dale

JUST ORDERED A 350/330HP TURNKEY, GM IS BEHIND IN PRODUCTION AND IT WILL PROBABLY BE MID MARCH BEFORE I RECEIVE THE ENGINE. About $4650.00 with serpentine belt system. I'm 67 and this will probably be my last. Oh yes Currie rear 3.25:1 Detroit locker, everything new, but I've worked and saved for years for the final speeding ticket. Take your time and do it right. Good luck
Ted Dubree

Isnt that how it is done?:poke:



Lol, no stall converter!

Isnt that how it is done?:poke:

JUST ORDERED A 350/330HP TURNKEY, GM IS BEHIND IN PRODUCTION AND IT WILL PROBABLY BE MID MARCH BEFORE I RECEIVE THE ENGINE. About $4650.00 with serpentine belt system. I'm 67 and this will probably be my last. Oh yes Currie rear 3.25:1 Detroit locker, everything new, but I've worked and saved for years for the final speeding ticket. Take your time and do it right. Good luck
Ted Dubree


Lol, I must be hittin the ground running. I'm in my mid 20's and droppin in a blown 383 with powereglide, stall converter, rear axle, drive, pro suspension. Who knows, I might concoct my dream motor, a demonic 572 or 632 bb. *has orgasm* in another decade.

The engine is just the beginning as others have said...
First the engine..
Then the 700R4...
Then the 3:73 Posi..
Springs, control arms, performance shocks,Air bags, rear sway bar.....
new exhaust system..
Bigger radiator to handle the BTU's and likely dual " electric fans..
Much bigger tires to get all that new found torque to the ground and of course a new set of wheels to mount those trick tires on...........
And another 2-3 grand for all those miscellaneous parts
Hang on!!! It will be a wild ride!

The engine is just the beginning as others have said...
First the engine..
Then the 700R4...
Then the 3:73 Posi..
Springs, control arms, performance shocks,Air bags, rear sway bar.....
new exhaust system..
Bigger radiator to handle the BTU's and likely dual " electric fans..
Much bigger tires to get all that new found torque to the ground and of course a new set of wheels to mount those trick tires on...........
And another 2-3 grand for all those miscellaneous parts
Hang on!!! It will be a wild ride!

Lol, you just summarized the last 3 summers of my life, and the next 3! Lmao

The engine is just the beginning as others have said...
First the engine..
Then the 700R4...
Then the 3:73 Posi..
Springs, control arms, performance shocks,Air bags, rear sway bar.....
new exhaust system..
Bigger radiator to handle the BTU's and likely dual " electric fans..
Much bigger tires to get all that new found torque to the ground and of course a new set of wheels to mount those trick tires on...........
And another 2-3 grand for all those miscellaneous parts
Hang on!!! It will be a wild ride!

I built my 83 like this.
Bought a 350/290hp crate engine, Chevy aluminum high-rise, Edelbrock 600cfm Performer Series, TRUE dual exhaust/w-headers, along with the 700R-4 installed a lock-up converter, bigger tires, F/R sway bars, Jounce bars, cross-over bar, fender braces, radiator X-braces and re-did some S-10 wheels.
Turned out pretty nice !!
Run's very well.

I just bought a 330/350 turn key, got everything all acessories w/serp. set up 4600.00

get the 350/330hp. I jerked the 305 and replaced with brand new, as well as a 700r4 tranny. I got the complete one, just keep the brackets off the 305, and good to go. Forget rebuilding a 305, good boat anchor if nothing else.

now now now, stop beating on the 305. i've got one put together and going back in my 78'. it's a daily driver so i don't need gobs of hp, and the saginaw won't stand up to a stump puller. i've got roughly $600 in a good combo; the heads are rebuilt 305 H.O. heads, decent cam, new seals, new oil pump, 9.3:1 CR, etc. when i pulled the block apart the cylinder walls still had the cross hatch in them. its got a 525cfm road demon jr on top. desktop dyno calls it a 320hp combo with a bigger carb, i'll be satisfied with the 285hp that it probably has. $4600 vs. $600...you do the math, and i don't need to hear about warranty and all that jazz, i've got plenty of parts to take care of that.

G-Man are they laughing at us. You don't tell all the goodies you have. Once had a pair of 202 chevy heads that I ground the humpsd off and punched the heads and painted them, they looked like a set of small valve heads. One heck of a 23T roadster. Oh well don't give out all your secrets.
Ted Dubree.