is there a lot to be changed to remove emission controls from a 1984 El Camino w/ a 305 v/8 ? Not really looking for performance gain, would just like to clean up engine appearance. Any publications out there on how to do it ?

As you probably know, there are a ton of vaccum lines used for emissions on your engine. If you pull all of these out, just make sure you aren't pulling out anything you need (vaccum advance to distributor, AC line to vacuum cannister ect.). Also make sure you cap any unused vacuum ports to prevent vacuum leaks that could hurt your performance. Your 84' probably has a computer controlled Quadrajet carb. If you unplug the ECM connecter (blue plug on top passenger side of carb), your engine will run very rich and gas mileage will suffer. Either leave it plugged up, or replace it with a non-computer controlled carb.

You will also need a vacuum advance HEI distributor. You will loose torque convertor lock up as well as cruise control. But, you can fix this with some wiring fixes and an aftermarket lock up kit. Do a search, lots of info covering this on this site.

Dave B if your not going to do like they said ,make those changes you might as well just tidy it up. maybe some new hoses ,vac. lines,ect. on the other hand you dont have to worry about emissions so now is the time to upgrade the carb.and dist. my car dont have any emissions or computer stuff any more and it is almost a pleasure to work on. and alot of less crap to breakdown on you. enjoy carl

Can I change out the distrbutor & leave the carb. alone @ this time? Thanks for the help to all that replied.

Can I change out the distrbutor & leave the carb. alone @ this time? Thanks for the help to all that replied.

You would be gaining nothing by changing the distributor. The distributor advance and the carb mixture are controlled by the computer. A non-computer HEI distributor would need a vacuum line added. Also the check engine light would always be on. The only good way to de-smog the engine is to remove everything.

Remove or unplug computer, replace carb and distributor with non-computer controlled ones, remove air pump and it's vacuum lines, hoses and steel distribution manifold. plug the exhaust manifold holes, remove the EGR valve and plate the hole. Buy a torque convertor lockup kit. Don't know how to make the cruise control work. Probably missed a few things. Other members will chime in.

Doug

Last summer I needed to do an A/C recharge on my '87 305. Since I was replacing the accumulator and flushing all the lines (conversion to R134) I decided to do a bit of underhood cleanup at the same time. In addition to repainting the A/C compressor and polishing all the aluminim in all the A/C lines, I removed a bunch of emission stuff also. Here's the list:
-Remove A.I.R. pump & brackets
-Replace exhaust manifolds with 90's Roadmaster/ Caprice parts-fewer air pipe holes. I tapped the remaining holes for short setscrews, sealed with POR 15 sealer, and coated them with POR 15 manifold grey. Headers would have been nicer, but funds weren't available to do a complete system.
-Remove EFE actuator, and wire EFE butterfly valve open.
-Cap any open vacuum ports.
-Tuck the diverter valve wiring back into the conduit.
-Cap and seal the stainless pipe at the catalytic converter ( I used a copper pipe cap)
-Replace battery ground cable with a heavier gauge cable, and anchor it to the block in one of the A.I.R. pump bracket holes, rather than the alternator bracket.
-Fab a small d-shaped plate to plug the hole in the air cleaner left when removing the air intake hose.
-Remove the "T" fitting in the heater hose, and plug the port in the intake.

Everything else is as-is. No trouble codes have appeared, and it passed emissions inspection. Driveability is fine, even in cold weather. Removing the 1/2" coolant line to the intake did mean it takes longer to make heat in cold weather, but I can live with that.

Appearance and access under the hood has improved tremendously. Next job is replacement of that ugly ball-shaped vacuum tank on the LF inner fender. I'm going to replace it with a smaller cylindrical tank tucked under the RF fender.

Hope this helps.
Bill

I don't know about the cruise control, on my 84 it still functions after I got rid of the smog stuff, just make sure all the vacume lines for taht are still properly connected. I didn't see anyone mention removal of the catilitic converter .....no sense carrying the extra weight and restriction.

Converter lockup is simple to wire I placed mine in the lower right hand coner of the of the dash, when you have the face off, just pull the check engine light bulb out.

The carb enrichment circuit is electrically controlled and should be replaced along wit the distributor as mentioned.

http://i450.photobucket.com/albums/qq228/fecustom/elceng4.jpg

http://i450.photobucket.com/albums/qq228/fecustom/El350.jpg

http://i450.photobucket.com/albums/qq228/fecustom/ConverterLockup1.jpg

I assume from looking at your schematic that the "engage switch" is a momentary contact switch ???

Ye, just an ordinary spring loaded push button.

Dave, I was aking the same questions you are a year ago:
http://elcaminocentral.com/showthread.php?t=23776

Since then, I've learned a bit more. :nanawrench:

If you want to truly clean things up and do away with all emissions stuff, plan on replacing the carb, intake, distributor, and exhaust manifolds. The result will be an engine bay that is much cleaner and easier to work on. About the TC Lock-up, you may want to install one of these: http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=TCI%2D376600&N=700+4294844569+4294851526+4294904007+115&autoview=sku (http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=TCI%2D376600&N=700+4294844569+4294851526+4294904007+115&autoview=sku)
I can't vouch for how it works, or how easily it installs, but I am ordering one this week to put on my '86. Maybe someone else has some experience with the TCI lockup kit?