I am curious, tonight on the way home from work, i stopped at my high school's peking lot and went to do burnouts. well I was getting goot slippage but then i got tire hop. Now is the tire hop just caused because I have no source of lubrication such as water or bleach? My tires are also really old. is that a problem too? or does it mean i have the PSI in the air shocks set for goot traction? thanks guys:nanawrench:

I really don't know what the heck tire hop is. I am only 22 yrs old, and I have gone through more tires myself than over half the members on here cumulatively have. Can someone explain it to me?

I have roasted tires in my 96 T-bird with 4.6 V8, both of my rangers, and my El Camino... Sometimes in my dads FWD Buick Regal GS it would be a little bumpy during a hard launch... thats the only thing I can think of? but again, that was FWD

Tire hop could be caused by out of balance or out of round tires, particularly if the rear end isn't positraction. I'd check for/correct that first.

If it still occurs under similar situations even when balanced, it's likely caused by the axle "wrapping". That's when the pinion rides up on the ring gear because the hot sticky tires start to get a little more traction. Source of axle wrapping could be varied, but most likely it's loose or worn out control arm bushings. If this is the cause, a few hours under the car plus a trip to the machine shop to press in new bushings should do the trick for you.

Tire hop could be caused by out of balance or out of round tires, particularly if the rear end isn't positraction. I'd check for/correct that first.

If it still occurs under similar situations even when balanced, it's likely caused by the axle "wrapping". That's when the pinion rides up on the ring gear because the hot sticky tires start to get a little more traction. Source of axle wrapping could be varied, but most likely it's loose or worn out control arm bushings. If this is the cause, a few hours under the car plus a trip to the machine shop to press in new bushings should do the trick for you.

thats probably it because i know my tires are balanced and i have a posi. thank you i will look into some new bushings, maybe polyurithane

thats probably it because i know my tires are balanced and i have a posi. thank you i will look into some new bushings, maybe polyurithane
You need the Poly bushings, and box the control arms, at least the lowers, or after market arms to stop that wheel hop

Agree with all of the above. Sometimes it gets involved.... worn bushings allowing axle wrap, changed pinion angle, control arm flex, etc. I developed some severe wheel hop on my 3rd gen too and decided to replace it all. Springs, UCA's, LCA's, bushings etc. etc. I enjoy doing a big smokey burnout now and then, so it's worth it to me. But if burnouts aren't that important to you, you may be able to ride on what you have for quite some time yet. I'd get the bushings checked out either way. This is what I went with....http://lh6.ggpht.com/_UnSZVGvsnu8/SdvWHGg-0xI/AAAAAAAAAZc/YOtih-9Snok/s640/Control%20Arms-2.jpg

This is what I went with....http://lh6.ggpht.com/_UnSZVGvsnu8/SdvWHGg-0xI/AAAAAAAAAZc/YOtih-9Snok/s640/Control%20Arms-2.jpg


:nanawrench:
NICE Setup Mark ↑, I've always said, " If your going to do something, do it RIGHT the first time, I really hate to do things twice times, or more. Not to mention that if not done right the first time, it more than not costs you more in the long run". But what do I know? Sounds good though, don't it? :poke:

The third gen rear suspension is called a "converging four link" . If you were to draw a line connecting the control arm mount points and continue them forward, where the upper and lower arm lines intersect is called the "instant center". Ideally this would somewhere around the door area. The problem with our cars is that the instant center is way the heck out in front of the car. The result is that when torque is applied to the rear axle, the suspension pulls the rear end up into the body. When this happens, the tires or tire, looses traction. This removes torque from the axle and the rear end drops back down. As you can see the cycle will repeat. This is wheel hop. With the correct change in instant center, the rear end will be pushed down when torque is applied. The benefit is obvious. A change to one of the control arm mount points will get you there.

Aside from the poor suspension geoometry, if your still running the air shocks, you can expect it to NEVER get better. The air shocks acts like a bouncing ball and once the slightest wheel hop starts, there is no recovery.

Wheel hop can be deadly to a differential. Ask me how I know. lol So be careful out there and use some of the good advice given.

Doug

Thanks Larry.

I hyave the same issue with my 68, I have brand new 50s in the rear.won't a set of traction bars take care of it? Cause i'm thinking of buying a set. Won't that take care of it? 12 bolt 411 gears posi
Thanks
Donny

I hyave the same issue with my 68, I have brand new 50s in the rear.won't a set of traction bars take care of it? Cause i'm thinking of buying a set. Won't that take care of it? 12 bolt 411 gears posi
Thanks
Donny
It might, but it is just a crutch, fix the problem with the bushings and control arm flex and you won't need the traction bars and the suspension will work better without the bars too.

I'll check into the bushings and control arms but I do have to say i've always liked the crutch look (traction bars) And by crutch are you saying they won't stop it or are you saying my stuff needs replacing and is going to break? I really don't want that.
thanks
Donny

Fix the problem FIRST. If not, the T Bars will only compound your issue. If you want to spend the money for LOOKS, that's fine, I've done it. Just don't set them up tight for the street, Adjust them up when and if you run at the track. On the street you'll get tired of them real fast, They will begin to anoy you.

no hop traction bars are a cheap fix to wheel hop. i have them on my chevelle. my elky hops like crazy!!