I plan on installing true dual exhaust w/ headers on my 5th gen elk.

I was wondering about installation difficulty. I want it to be as easy as possible.

Any header suggestions?

Chris, It is not that difficult to install headers. I used Hooker Competition Part # 2451. There are others cheaper. The Hookers fit tight but fine. Can't vouch for any others. I had to remove a small bracket from the drivers side inner fenderwell. The bracket was holding the return line from the charcoal canister. That was the only fit problem that I had ( other than clutch linkage). I'm assuming you have an auto trans. The starter wiring is really close so I purchased a 3 foot length of a product called "Thermo Flex Insulation" from Jegs. It was pricey at $14. I ran the wires thru the insulation& have not had a problem with melted wires or starter "heat soak". I had to purchase one of those cup style oil filter wrenches. The headers make it impossible to use the metal band type. The sparkplug on #6 cylinder (third one back on passenger side) is directly under one of the header tubes. I have to change this plug with a standard open end wrench (PIA). Using the stock AC plug in that hole I quickly melted the plug boot. I bought one Bosch Super, part #7575 plug for that hole as it is about 3/8" shorter than stock. I then took some of the left over insulation & wrapped the boot in it & it has held up fine. Accel makes an even shorter plug but no one locally will sell just one & they want 25 dollars for a set. I have A/C so the last header bolt on the passenger side is very difficult to get a wrench on. I took a 7/16 open end wrench & cut off what I needed to make it easier to fit . (It is easier to get to from the bottom side). After you first install them you'll have to tighten the bolts every week or so for a month or so. Tighten the bolts with the engine cold because the metals will be contracted. The metals will expand with heat, giving a tighter seal. Tighten ALL the bolts, even the PIA ones. The crossmember will have to be modified or an aftermarket one purchased to be able to run duals without road clearance problems. Jon

My Headmans fit great, and slid in easily!

Blackelk:

My first install was on my 67 Nova SS back in 1967. These were fender well headers and a ton of work. For some reason, I've always used Hooker. But, they have always presented the problem of getting to the plugs. They also present a problem of being too close to the plug wires and the get fryed due to the heat.

The next time I install headers on "the next car", I'll shop around for more clearance and extension of the tubes away from the plugs and wires.

Take your time and check it out.

Good luck and let us know how it turns out.

Elky77

I've tried all kinds of headers on all kinds of cars over the years and all of them have clearance issues. I think that generally speaking Hooker and Hedman are the best. You always end up tweaking the fit, plug wires have to be carefully routed and protected, and after years of removing difficult to reach sparkplugs you develope tools and strategies.
In the end a good set of headers is definitely the best performance choice you can make.

I used DynoMax headers on my 80. They fit nice and are great headers. I can't vouch for their ease of installation. We had the engine out and the body was off. The engine. tranny and driveshaft all go in before the body went back on. I used the same brand on my 76 and have no clearence issues, they are shorty headers originally purchashed for the 80 but I ended up putting them on my 383 when I finished it and put that in the 76. They were installed on the engine before we put it back in the engine compartment. I didn't have a problem with doing it that way, no adjusting or what ever.

Well I don't believe I have used Dynomax hraders and I'll certainly consider them the next time. When you use shorty headers this is a compromise over the full lenght headers and I know shorty headers do give up some horsepower and torque. You are giving up some torque and horsepower for ease of installation and fitment. On the street with an exhaust system it probably doesn't amount to much but with an open exhaust sytem it could make a real difference.

hey bros., im going to be putting some summit headers on my 79. will i need to buy or fabricate a dif cross member? also will be putting tru duals on ...maybe some glasspacks, or cherry bombs off of a 73 plymouth...<sound great>

You can do it simply or get complicated. In my estimation the easiest way is to modify the original crossmember. Notch the crossmember and box it in. This will mean removing the cross member, cutting a notch (cutting wheel, torch, or plasma cutter), 3 small pieces of 16 or 14 guage steel plate, and a little welding. Good luck.

Well I don't believe I have used Dynomax hraders and I'll certainly consider them the next time. When you use shorty headers this is a compromise over the full lenght headers and I know shorty headers do give up some horsepower and torque. You are giving up some torque and horsepower for ease of installation and fitment. On the street with an exhaust system it probably doesn't amount to much but with an open exhaust sytem it could make a real difference.

On the 80 I have I went with the Full Length headers so I have short one on the 76 and Full Length on the 80 but both are DynoMax silver Cerma Coated. Just FYI.

The header were a little more expensive than some other but I figure that was the Coatings.

hey again,
i just ordered some hooker comp headers from Jegs, should be here on thursday... has anyone used these on their 5th gen. if so what mods to the crossmember did you have to do? what about for dual exhaust...?
thanx for the info
bud

Chris,
Please read the posts in this topic. Jon

Heres a question for all of you .. why are header gaskets soo dang expensive.. they gotta take the heat but i mean comeon!!.. i'm looking at 60 dollars worth of gaskets.. just seems overpriced to me

You're right--the copper gaskets are expensive but to old timers who remember all the grief with asbestos/paper gaskets and poorly designed header flanges they're worth every penny. The manufacturers know we'll pay and not complain too much because they are so much better than what we had. Also they are reusable so you just have to buy them once.