Years ago (11 to be exact), I rescued a Honda motorcycle with rusty gas tank. I used POR-15's gas tank system. Here is the write up I did all many many years ago. Maybe it will help a Chevy owner. I'm considering working on my 70 Chevelle's tank with this. Read on...

(reprint original article)

Hey all,

Update on my rescued Interceptor. I just finished prepping the tank. I DID NOT
use crappy Kream. Read on.

The Interceptor I've rescued had sat outside with 1/3 a tank of gas for about
a year and a half. The internals were definitely rusty though still tight w/o
leaks. I needed to do something about the internals but didn't want to use
Kream (because it is not a permanent fix and the problems it can cause when it
decides to go are *NOT* fun.) My work with restoring my 1970 Chevelle SS had
brought me in touch with a company called Restomotive who produce a product
called POR-15. This stuff is amazing. All the resto rags rave and car related
Internet sites are a-buzz about it. When used properly, it stops rust *DEAD*.
It forms a super hard surface that is very hard to scratch or chip. Even my
Evil Twin Joey (the ToeCutter) Thorne, who works on boats, knew about POR-15
and had favorable things to say about it. If a rust repair product can work
properly in a Marine/Saltwater environment than it has GOT to be good. Awhile
ago, I found a tank prep product kit in their catalog. I have been very happy
with other products of theirs, so I have been waiting for an opportunity to
try this one. Hey, they even show a V65 Sabre's tank in the catalog. I think
that this is a sign.

The kit contains: Marine=Clean (a water based, alkaline cleaner/degreaser,
supposedly environmentally friendly but I wouldn't let it sit on your skin for
very long), Metal Ready (a mildly acidic solution which completely turns rust
into a neutral Zinc Phosphate. Much nicer to work with than the highly acidic
hydrochloric solution in the Kream kit. Also, Metal Ready can be saved and
reused.), Tank Sealer (which reminds me of POR-15 Silver), a piece of cloth
and a disposable brush (to repair pin holes and leaking seams, which I did not
need to use, so I cannot vouch for.) A heavy duty version of the kit also has
a step that will completely remove a previous tank lining like Kream.

Use of the kit is not as quick as using Kream. YOU MUST TAKE YOUR TIME! If you
follow the directions given to you by POR-15 and the suggestions I've outlined
here you should be okay.

Cleaning the tank:
Seal all openings and vent tubes on the tank. Duct tape is suggested, but it
kept coming off of the two large openings on my tank due to LOTs of water. I
improvised by slipping the gas cap into a surgical glove and installing it the
way it would normally go to seal the top hole. luckily had a large cork the
size of the fuel gauge sending unit hole to seal that as well. Using the
Marine=Clean, mix one part cleaner and one part boiling water. Pour into tank
and then seal it tight. I aggitated the solution in the tank by gently rocking
it back and forth. Rock and roll. Rock and roll. Make sure the cleaner gets
everywhere. The cleaner needs to be in the tank for at least 24 hours, more
for heavily varnished or dirty interiors. I would aggitate for about 20
minutes, and then let it sit for an hour or two. Then I'd aggitate some more
and let it sit again, but in a different position than before. After 24+ hours
I dumped the cleaner out and flushed liberally with water. I used my bathtub
as I don't have good access to an open area w/ a hose. Your wives or SO may
kill you for this as it's messy, but not damaging. Flush it well. You want to
remove as much alkaline solution as possible for the next step, which is more acidic.

Rust destruction/ "etching":
When I say etching I don't mean like the extremely harsh Kream method. Metal
Ready is techincally acidic, but pretty mild in comparison to the Kream Kit's
(Phosphoric or Hydrochloric Acid?) Metal Ready's main job is to CONVERT rust
to a neutral Zinc Phosphate. Any etching properties are pretty minor. Metal
Ready takes about 30 minutes to work for a tank in the condition of mine.
Heavy rust will take longer. Again I'd aggitate the tank/solution in a slow
rocking motion. Turning and rocking and rolling and turning. Watch a movie
that you know by heart when you do this. I watched Mad Max again. When the
tank is done, remember that you can reuse Metal Ready, so I syphoned it out of
the tank. Again, flush liberally with water. You should see black flakes of
particulate now instead of rust colored. That is the zinc phosphate coverted rust.

********THE MOST IMPORTANT STEP*********
Okay, you're pretty excited now that the rust is gone. The job is going well
and you want to keep the momentum going. Before you go pouring the sealant
into the tank STOP! The tank **MUST** be absolutely bone dry. POR-15 cures
with water. If a single drop of water (or sweat) drops into your pint can of
POR-15 while you are working THE WHOLE FREAKING CAN IS WASTED!
This tank sealant is the same.

After the flushing out from the Metal Ready step I again syphoned out as much
of the water still trapped in the tank as I possible could. Letting the tank
sit in the sun won't dry it. Letting it sit for 10 weeks won't dry it. You
need to introduce warm moving air to dry the internals. I removed all the tape
and stuff sealing the various holes on the tank. I set the tank up with a hair
dryer set on low w/ heat blowing into the main hole. I left it blowing warm
air into the tank for around 4 hours. The next day I let it blow warm air in
half hour intervals about 3 or 4 times. Then, when I was ready to seal the
tank, I let it blow cool air for an additional 2 hours. I may have overdone
the air thing, but I wanted to take no chances. I wanted this done right.

Sealing the tank:
After the hairdryer this step seems anti-climatic. I resealed the openings,
this time merely with duct tape. I poured the contents of the sealant can into
the tank. It is the consitency of paint with a heavy fumes. DO NOT GET THIS
STUFF ON ANYTHING ELSE. If you do wipe it off IMMEDIATELY. It won't
come off once dry. I'm serious. Wear gloves, because you'll be wearing a for
weeks if you don't. Ordinary paint thinners do not work with it. It can be thinned
with the POR-15 specific thinner (not availible in this kit as there is no need for
it.) Aggitate the tank again in slow motions allowing time for the POR-15 to
coat the interior. I took about 45 minutes to be sure. On my tank there was no
easy way to get the excess POR-15 out due to a collar around the interior of
the main fillng hole. I used a turkey baister to remove the excess. I also
blew compressed air into any small diameter tubes/holes to be sure that I
don't develop a restriction or clog due to a cured POR-15 blockage. I set the
tank aside to dry/cure. A well ventilated area is a must for this. I installed
an exhaust fan in my bathroom window and let the tank sit in there for the
night while the most fumes were present. I also let the tank sit upside down
so that any excess POR-15 that I couldn't remove would puddle in the air
pocket that is always present, even in a full tank of gas so my fuel capacity
wouldn't be effected. If you have leaks at the seams of your tank, you might
want to consider letting the POR-15 cure so that it puddles into these areas,
sealing them forever. The tank is fully cured and ready for gas after 4 days.
Mine is completed now with a ROCKING coating ready to go.

So that is how it went. It is a time consuming process. It is not *DOWN AND
DIRTY* quick and easy. but guaranteed, if you do it right you'll never have to
do it again. While not being difficult it is also not "simple". You do need to
take your time and be careful, especially to fully dry the tank with warm
moving air. You *CANNOT* be in a rush. Leave about a week of off and on work
to complete the task. But the results are worth it. If this coating/finish is
anything like the other POR-15 products I've used that nothing short of an
A-Bomb will effect it. This is the only permanent fix I know of short of
buying a new tank. At the price of $29.95 and a week's worth of time I'd say
it is worth it.

here's the info: (full online catalog.)

http://www.por15.com

RestoMotive Laboratories
Division of Por-15, Incorporated
P.O. Box 1235
Morristown, New Jersey 07962-1235

TOLL-FREE: 1-800-457-6715
In NJ: 973-887-1999
Fax: 973-887-8007

One very NICE WRITE UP !!! I APPROVE !!! :nanawrench:

This POR 15 is great stuff! I coated my entire floor, including the smugglers' area and rear wall with it when I had the areas stripped for new dynamat and carpet. It is easy to use, and a Quart can is plenty to cover all areas of an El Camino, with about 1/2 pint left. This stuff is self leveling, which means simply that you cannot mess up when applying it with a brush. Just be sure to have a throw-a-way brush, cause you're not going to clean the brush after use! Cleanup of your hands CAN be accomplished with mineral spirits............Ken

I used the POR-15 tank kit on my Elky's tank and it worked great. They must have inproved the Marine-Clean as I don't remember having to leave it sit over night. It's been awhile but I do beleive I did my tank over the coures of an entire day. And I do mean the whole day. Another good trick to do during the 1st (cleaning) step is to put a piece of chain in the tank with the cleaner. This will help knock loose an scale or loose rust while you are agitating it.

I would highly recommend all the POR products. But like has been said.....do not get it on anything you don't want it on. It took over a month for it to wear of my skin were it had got betwen my gloves and shirt sleeve.

The products made by POR15 and they have many are great and are on my cars and boats. THE ONLY THING YOU NEED TO DO IS FOLLOW THE INSTRUCTIONS AND DO WHAT THEY SAY OR DO IT EACH STEP TWICE ON THE PREP. If you do not do each step then just pour it out of the can into the trash as it is not going to work as it is supposed to. Prep prep prep

Hey 67Elkybryan,

Good to see an old VF fan on this board. The 700 Magnas are excellent bikes. I've had a v30 AND v65 Magna in addition to my current VF700F Interceptor. Love the Honda V four. The V65 is the original muscle bike!

Back to Elky stuff!

I, too, use POR-15 and a few of their other products... these are products you can trust !

As you can tell from the previous posts - FOLLOW THE DIRECTIONS - and I don't mean the directions on the can which are abreviated at best - they have a very nice brochure which goes a bit further into proper prep and use. But please GO TO THEIR WEBSITE -- http://www.por15.com/ -- and click until you find the spec sheet and the directions for the product you are using...

You will get the results you want.

And Michael - thank you for starting this thread - this is the type of valuable info that is most certainly worth sharing.

Thanks for the tips. Don't need the product now, but who knows? I have owned motorcycles for 39 years but never had a rusty fuel tank. Always stored them for the winter with a full tank and since Stabil came out or I became aware of it use that also.

Doug

Hey 67Elkybryan,

Good to see an old VF fan on this board. The 700 Magnas are excellent bikes. I've had a v30 AND v65 Magna in addition to my current VF700F Interceptor. Love the Honda V four. The V65 is the original muscle bike!

Back to Elky stuff!

The VF line is in my opinon one of the best Honda as ever made. And you are correct the V65 was the original muscle bike. The V45's were pretty quick as well. My current 700C even with 45k on the clock will still hold it's own against many of the newer, bigger bikes out there.