on the left side of the engine theres this pulition ****..
http://i29.tinypic.com/15ea7g3.jpg

someone said you dont even need this anymore.. well how to get rid of it.. and where..

also it was making noises so my mechanic took 1 end of the plug and pluged it into the other end to stop..
he said now if u want less noise remove the front bottom left belt i guess its on the water pump he said remove that and it will stop the noise but is that even legit?
http://i27.tinypic.com/2z8xc8m.jpg

that is your smog pump. i pumps air into the exhaust manifolds to reduce polution. you do not need it to pass emisions. I do not have it on my car, I took the pump off and put allen head plugs into the holes in the exhaust manifold. You can simply remove the belt, or just as easily remove the pump as well, but it is your choice.

that is your smog pump. i pumps air into the exhaust manifolds to reduce polution. you do not need it to pass emisions. I do not have it on my car, I took the pump off and put allen head plugs into the holes in the exhaust manifold. You can simply remove the belt, or just as easily remove the pump as well, but it is your choice.

Telling cslix he can remove the smog pump could be bad advice. In some locations it could fail a visual inspection. Removal of emissions devices is against the law in most states and in fact the US. I can't really tell from the photos just what cslix is referring to anyway, he hasn't really nailed it down and does not use proper names of parts. I have no idea what a "pulition ****.." is. He actually shows a picture of the diverter valve but I'm not sure if that's what he's writing about.

Doug

Check you local emission laws. There have been several posts lately about Elky owners failing sniffer and visual inspections. If your car is required to test for emissions leave all that stuff on the car. Find a mechanic who knows what he's talking about and not rig something up to stop some noise. Do a search and you'll find all kinds of posts about the hoops these guys are having to jump through just to drive their cars.

i think come jan. you car is not going to be checked for emissions anyway.i hope i got it right. i was told 25 years & older is only a safety inspection in ny . someone please correct me if i am wrong.

mine is a 68 & only safety in NY (the vampire state) I believe 25 and older is safety only how knows with this state next year we might all be smoged just to get the extra few $$$$$$$$$ we have left in our pockets..

I'm not sure if its 25 years old or if its into its 26 year as it is with historical/vintage plates.

Do you know an easy way to remove those air pipes in the exhaust manifold??? Tried using a split 9/16 and even 14mm. Soaked with Blast. No good. Cant get at them with vise grips either.
Any suggestions:yell:????

keep soaking them. might take a few days. try removing them while it is hot. dont strip off the area where you put the wrench.

Is your split wrench a real line wrench or just a modified box wrench? Make sure you are using the correct type and size of wrench. Work the nut back and forth, tighten and loosen, tighten and loosen, not just loosen. This usually works better than just trying to loosen and will eventually break the nut loose.

EDIT: Just checked the fit of my 9/16" line wrench on the air injector line nuts and it's a good fit. Just in case you didn't know a line wrench is beefier and stronger than other wrenches,

Doug

A little HEAT from a hand held Propane torch can also assist.

NY law is 26+ year old cars are exempt from emissions testing. And I quote:

Some vehicles are exempt from the emissions inspection program: Your passenger car or light truck does not have to be inspected for emissions if it is:

Less than two model years old;
26 model years old or older;
Registered with historical plates; or,
Electric-powered only.

that sucks for me & you cslix.ill miss out by 2 months.

You guys are fortunate. In California it's all vehicles 1977 and newer have full inspection every other year. Any aftermarket changes are a red flag unless the part has a C.A.R.B. (Cal Air Resource Board) exemption number. That means no mods at all unless you plan to change it back for your smog inspection. (Not even an aftermarket air filter) We're treated like red-headed step children.

yes that does suck.i would never have a valid sticker.but i would rather have a 1970 e/c if i had to. hey did he get that thing off ?

hmm.. this blows... the guy told me both endes are shot i would need these 2 parts and someone who can fix this..
http://i31.tinypic.com/iqe8hh.jpg
http://i30.tinypic.com/11ak1sx.jpg
http://i26.tinypic.com/55i6b.jpg

look what i found.. http://www.state.nj.us/mvc/Inspections/VehiclesExempt.htm
says 25 years.. and right now i cleared my inspection so next year will make it 25 years cause i own an 85 there for im guessing? i would clear if i got historical plates.. it makes the car sound old but ha idc. someone correct me if im wrong.

Looks like you can register you EC as a "Historical" vehicle next year. Since you have already been registered for this year, you can remove anything you want now if you don't get caught between now and next time you have to register.

There is a lot of work and know how in de-smoging an engine with computer emissions and engine management systems. The carb and distributor will have to be changed to non computer controlled ones. There will be a need for different lockup torque converter switching and a mod to the wiring for cruise control. Probably not a job for non mechanical types. There is no half way to do this. Except maybe for the air injection system, one end in your photos goes to the catalytic converter and the other one goes to the exhaust manifold injection lines. You are your mechanic can remove the air pump, vacuum lines, air injection lines and associated devices such as the diverter. You will probably get a Check Engine light, but you could take out the bulb or stick on some black tape over the lens.


Doug

Looks like you can register you EC as a "Historical" vehicle next year. Since you have already been registered for this year, you can remove anything you want now if you don't get caught between now and next time you have to register.

There is a lot of work and know how in de-smoging an engine with computer emissions and engine management systems. The carb and distributor will have to be changed to non computer controlled ones. There will be a need for different lockup torque converter switching and a mod to the wiring for cruise control. Probably not a job for non mechanical types. There is no half way to do this. Except maybe for the air injection system, one end in your photos goes to the catalytic converter and the other one goes to the exhaust manifold injection lines. You are your mechanic can remove the air pump, vacuum lines, air injection lines and associated devices such as the diverter. You will probably get a Check Engine light, but you could take out the bulb or stick on some black tape over the lens.


Doug


NO OFFENSE BUT im dumb and didnt understand half of what you said.. mm my mechanic said i have an exhaust leak and took the hose form the valve on the right and pluged the rusted valve on the left with it and it stoped but the car still makes funny noises.. grr i just wanna get rid of the crap you know..

Just because you don't know about cars and engines does not make you dumb. I don't know about higher math and computer programing, but that does not make me dumb either. It's rather obvious you will need to farm out removing any or all of the emissions components. The other option as I see it is to just replace what is required to make right with what you have and don't go with trying to remove everything. Even experienced gear heads get into trouble removing emissions and computer controlled engine management devices.

Doug

↑
http://www.elcaminocentral.com/images/icons/icon4.gif
Yeah, what HE said !
:poke:

Went out and bought a good 9/16 line wrench. We will keep at it. Thanks guys:smileyb:

http://i25.tinypic.com/bgu5ow.jpg
this whole piece and the branch thats rusted as well.. i just want to get rid of both parts the rusted thing sitting on the valve cover? i want 2 remove that my self can i just pull it off?

If you're outside the NYMA (new york city metropolitan area) you only need a low enhanced emissions test. Which is just a gas cap check and a visual inspection of the emissions system. Certain inspectors might not "see" what's missing.

If you're outside the NYMA (new york city metropolitan area) you only need a low enhanced emissions test. Which is just a gas cap check and a visual inspection of the emissions system. Certain inspectors might not "see" what's missing.

well if i rip everything off.. and i get historica plates they dont need to see anything?

In regards to airline removal, I soaked w/ liquid wrench for several days. Then ground pipes off close to fittings & used asix point socket to remove them. Plugged holes w/ pressure plugs.
Dave B.

http://i25.tinypic.com/bgu5ow.jpg

This piece with the O shaped entrence sitting on the valve cover i attempted to pry off.. i severed it down the middle with a screwdriver.. hmm managed to get the end near the airfilter off but not the bottom or opposite side because the "thing" (the air pultion thing thats all rusted there that branches out connects to the bottom on the idk what its called but its in the way and the only way 2 get the scrapped metal off is to unbolt that thing and that things bolted with 4 bolts and there in all hard spots.. any ideas can i just take this branched thing off and get rid of the metal casing on the valve cover and then plug the holes? or any ideas on what i should do.. bring it to a shop? idk.

In regards to airline removal, I soaked w/ liquid wrench for several days. Then ground pipes off close to fittings & used asix point socket to remove them. Plugged holes w/ pressure plugs.
Dave B.

That's a winner. Great way to do it if you're not saving the air injection lines.

Doug

That sheet metal with the 2" hole is a heat stove that is bolted to the exhaust manifold and is connected to the air cleaner with a flex pipe to heat the carburetor on cold days. The air cleaner has a flap in the snorkel that is vacuum controlled to shut off the flex pipe when the carb is warm enough. It is not setting on the valve cover. The four steel lines are 1/2 of the air injection to the exhaust manifolds, there are four more on the driver's side. After removing the steel lines the holes in the manifolds will need to be plugged. The air injection lines are getting air from the smog pump thru the diverter. All of these items can be removed without effecting the performance of the engine. Those parts look real rusty to me, I think you will have a heck of a time getting them off. I recommend leaving them alone or have a mechanic remove all of the air injection items. Dave B replied with a real good way to remove the air lines today in this thread.

Doug

well if i rip everything off.. and i get historica plates they dont need to see anything?

That's right in the 26th year you can register it as "Historical" and use either a set of current Empire Plates that DMV issues with HX followed by or preceeded by some numbers and the Historical wording along the bottom or you can use a set of year of manufacture plates with a Vintage registration. Either way your insurance card needs to state "Historical" on it. To get historical insurance you need to be 25 + years old. Either set of plates will limit your use. Supposed to be only driven to/from shows and in parades and exhibitions.
For your 85 you would need a set of yellow plates like the ones in my avatar. You can get a set on ebay. But before buying them, go to nysdmv website and check that the # is available. Look up the # as an empire plate in the link that lets you pick a personalized plate.

That's right in the 26th year you can register it as "Historical" and use either a set of current Empire Plates that DMV issues with HX followed by or preceeded by some numbers and the Historical wording along the bottom or you can use a set of year of manufacture plates with a Vintage registration. Either way your insurance card needs to state "Historical" on it. To get historical insurance you need to be 25 + years old. Either set of plates will limit your use. Supposed to be only driven to/from shows and in parades and exhibitions.
For your 85 you would need a set of yellow plates like the ones in my avatar. You can get a set on ebay. But before buying them, go to nysdmv website and check that the # is available. Look up the # as an empire plate in the link that lets you pick a personalized plate.


um.. like i posted the link.. it says for historical plates.
General inspections are not required for historic or collector vehicles. To be classified as a "historic vehicle" it must be:

At least 25 years old
Specially registered and display QQ plates (1945 and earlier models are required to display one plate on the rear of the vehicle. 1946 and newer models will be issued two plates and both plates must be displayed, one on the front and one on the back of the vehicle).

nothing about only using it to drive to shows and back? im pretty sure thats collectors.. and in NJ its 25 years.

In NY you don't need HX plates once the car is 26 years old, you can use regular plates. Historical insurance allows you to use HX or year of manufacture plates, the insurance governs vehicle usage, i.e. mileage, shows, etc.

I had the same problem getting my EGR lines off the manifolds. I tried every tool I could Find, buy, or barrow and none worked. the owner before me must have tried also because when I got to them they were rounded off. after hours off tinkering I finally got pissed and pulled out the SawsAll, and cut it about 1/8 of an inch before the rounded off nuts, took sheet metal screws and filled the holes. Very happy with the sawsall method. But for me this is just a temp repair I will be ordering headers soon. :nanawrench:

mine is a 68 & only safety in NY (the vampire state) I believe 25 and older is safety only how knows with this state next year we might all be smoged just to get the extra few $$$$$$$$$ we have left in our pockets..

I do not know if NY is different then Pennsylvania, but I did an Engine swap and thewy told me that I did not need any emmission stuff on my car if I drive it less then 5000 miles a year or I classify it as an antique. If I register it as an antique then it has to be show quality and can only be driven 1000 miles a year. So my 86 not being 25 years old did not matter.

I had the same problem getting my EGR lines off the manifolds. I tried every tool I could Find, buy, or barrow and none worked. the owner before me must have tried also because when I got to them they were rounded off. after hours off tinkering I finally got pissed and pulled out the SawsAll, and cut it about 1/8 of an inch before the rounded off nuts, took sheet metal screws and filled the holes. Very happy with the sawsall method. But for me this is just a temp repair I will be ordering headers soon. :nanawrench:

where about do the headers connect on that part of the engine?