Just had the Elky dynoed. First off It's got a 350/300 hp gm crate motor. Elderbrock preformer intake with Rochester Q-jet 4 barrel, headers with dual flowmaster on the exhaust. Running 700r4 trans with shift kit, 373 gears in the rear end. It runs real good now but would like to beef it up just a little. So the results from the dyno says it's got 198.9 hp at the rear wheels @ about 5200 rpm max torque @ 226.5 then it starts to fall off. So my question is what would ya'll suggest as far as up grades to the engine. Looking to do some bolt on work don't want to go into the engine it's still fairly new. Willing to spend about $1000.00. Also running eletric fans for the radiator cooling and K & N air filter.

Send me some feed back

well you could change the cam but you don't want to go into the engine, so you can go with nitrous and maybe a bigger carb.

For you running a stock ignition? A Msd box will help wake it up.

Yes I agree with Tommy, beefing up your ignition will help a bit, but it's about all you can do without replacing internal parts. I don't know what your emission requirements are, if it's not a concern you can go with an Airgap intake.

Get a good set of 1.6 roller rockers. Easy install. Nice horsepower bump and it doesn't void the GM engine warranty.

Comp Cams XE280 HR Cam Pete Jackson Gear Drive.

Power Pully set, Electrical Waterpump and fan. Add about 15 to 30 Hp back. Change the gears to a 4.10:1 if you have the 700R4 Transmission. that should make your rear wheel Hp numbers go up a fair amount.

Are those power pulleys really worth it?

Comp Cams XE280 HR Cam Pete Jackson Gear Drive.


Personally I stay away from gear drives. Sure they sound cool, but have you ever seen what happens when they grenade? A true double roller would be fine and last alot longer.

where did you get your truck dynoed there im about 60 miles from the shrevport-tx line and i havent found anyplace to get a dyno in tx

No, No, No, Yall got it all wrong.
This is what you need http://www.hamptonblowers.com/bigblower.jpg
May not fit into the 1,000 dollar mark but shop around.
Also, You just might see an improvement in PERFORMANCE.
That's my 2 cents; Who do I send the Bill To?
:-) :-D :D

Looks like you did pretty much all you can do externally. The normal lost from the engine dyno to the chassis dyno is 20-30%. Two GMPP 350 crate engines that I'm familiar with are rated at 260hp and 330hp. If you have the former 198hp at the rear wheels means you're doing pretty good. If you have the 330hp engine this means you could have some lost horsepower. Have you tried playing around with the timing? Excluding the vacumn advance you want about 36-38 degrees all in by 2500-2800 rpm. The vacumn advance will give you another 10-15 degrees but only at part throttle cruise. If you have a good performance ignition gap the plugs wide at .045-.050. When you were on the dyno did you check the air/fuel ratio to make sure it's not too lean or too rich, either way you lose power? A lower rear end ratio and/or a looser torque converter will make it faster.

Comp Cams XE280 HR Cam Pete Jackson Gear Drive.


Personally I stay away from gear drives. Sure they sound cool, but have you ever seen what happens when they grenade? A true double roller would be fine and last alot longer.

Really the Pete Jackson will not add power its just a "I like it sort of thing" and I suppose everything is apt to fail at one point or another. The gear drives give a little tighter control of your timing settings than a chain does but overall there is no real big advantage of one over the other.



where did you get your truck dynoed there im about 60 miles from the shrevport-tx line and i havent found anyplace to get a dyno in tx

I live in the D/FW area and there is a place between you and me where for about 85 bucks you get two pulls. Its off of I35 I'll have to locate the place and name again. I waz thinking about using them when I get to where I fell I am making my best with this set up.

maybe im new to this but what kind of set up does chevy base its 300 hp off of...doesnt 350/300hp mean just that? or am i missing something..198 hp is way off from 300hp as advertised..or am i wrong

maybe im new to this but what kind of set up does chevy base its 300 hp off of...doesnt 350/300hp mean just that? or am i missing something..198 hp is way off from 300hp as advertised..or am i wrong

thats flywheel power im guessing

But seems that @ 300 Hp, taking in account that you'll have typically close to a 20% loss through the drive train you should still see a rear wheel figure somewhere close to or above 240 rear wheel Horse power.

They way it looks is that the engine is actually producing around 240 Flywheel Horse Power. If its a 330 crate then something is wrong in the timing or somewhere. Its not producing numbers high enough at the rear wheels.

Just an observation.

Engine horsepower is measured on an engine dyno, no car, just an engine on a test stand hooked up to a water or electric brake. On a chassis dyno the car is secured to a dyno and the rear wheels drive rollers which are connected to a brake. On a chassis dyno the power "goes thru" the transmission and rear axle there are losses, typically 20-30% but it varies depending on the vehicle being tested. Back in the 1970's I managed a shop that had a chassis dyno and we tested hundreds of brand new cars every year and even between identical cars there were significant differences.