Has anybody put in a 305 Stroker Kit similiar to this: http://www.speedomotive.com/sbc_305_to_340_cid_stroker_crank.htm

I still have the original 305 in my 84 and I'm still trying to decide whether to build up the 305, or go with a 350. I'll probably go with the 350, because of the availability of parts and performance, but just wanted to see what type of performance came from these strokers. :evil:

I would go 350. By the time you buy that kit & extra stuff & work for your motor, you would have paid for a 350.

I have 2 Trans Ams, both 305s, 1 carbed the other (actually my daughters)a 305 factory roller cam block with TPI, both of which I had considered stroking. One thing thats not mentioned here is that also like stroking a 350 to 383, it requires machining the block for the rods and crank so they'll clear. This is an added expense. The end result is that you have 340 cubic inches, 347 if you bore it .060 over I believe...which is still shy of 350 and cost quite a bit more due to the required machine shop work. Also, the stroke of a 340 would be the same as the 383, so it's still not going to rev as high as a 283, 302, or 327. There's really no benefit to doing this if your going to invest this kind of money into a 305 (unless you want the benefit of a factory roller cam and can't get your hands on a 350 factory roller cam block). I would recommend rebuilding a 350 4 bolt main block (which are readily available at local boneyards very cheap) and if you have the money and want a stroker motor, put it into the 350 instead of the 305, you'll wind up with way more cubes (same stroke as a 340) for the same price. You can still make a 350 roller cam motor using aftermarket roller cam and lifters which can be a bit expensive if you use quality roller lifters. For my Elky, I have chosen to rebuild and stroke a 350 4 bolt main 2pc rear main seal block, increase compession ratio to 10 to 1 and add an aftermarket roller cam and lifters. For my 85 Trans Am I will replace the 305 with a 350 4 bolt main engine increase the compression ratio to 10 to 1 and add an aftermarket hyd lifter cam. For the 87 Trans Am, I am rebuilding the 305 roller cam motor (bored not stroked) increase the compression ratio to 10 to 1 and add a bigger cam. All will have aftermarket cylinder heads (Edelbrock), run on pump gas, be able to pass emissions testing, and be very streetable. When they all reach the age where I don't need to worry about emissions testing...then that will be a different matter, at least for my Elky. 8)

increase compession ratio What's a compession ratio? :lol:

I've seen a "De-stroked" 350 before and man it was balz-to-the-walz fast. But I don't recall ever seeing a "Stroked" 305.

I was told the advantage to "De-stroking" a 350 was faster windup (Quicker higher RPM). That little Nova it was in was really showing up some of what I thought were really hot rides with 350's and 383's.

Mike (theelcaminofactory) gives real good advice. Dump the 305, it ain't worth the effort. All Chevrolet modern efforts at at a high performance small block is based on a 350; do you think the Chevy engineers might know something we don't? Yes I know about the 305HO but I don't consider this a serious performance effort and neither did Chevy. Stick with what works.

The only "Stroker" type engine (GM Type) that I know of that doesn't require clearancing and small base circle Cams is the 383 that GM Performance parts sells as an HT383.

As far as machine shops use them for boring and saddle bore etc... For adding clearances to the engine you can do that yourself with a small hand grinder. The spots are already there you just have to add to them and they only need to have .030 clearance between the journal and the block. I went a little more and while I had the grinder out I removed the slag and seams from the block inside and out it was about two, or just over, hours in total I worked with it.

I think, my opinion, the most critical piece of the Stroker is to find a set of rods that is built with the Stroker in mind. This keep you from having to also add a clearance between the rod cap bolt and the Cam lobs. That clearance should also be .030 this is where things get scary! You have to remove material from the shoulder of the connecting rod and its cap bolt. This severely limits the maximum RPM you can safely operate the engine at.

http://www.holley.com/HiOctn/ProdLine/Products/IEC/IECCR/Billet.html
Lunati Pro Billet Series Connecting Rod, these Rods are manufactured to Stroker specs and can deal with up to 8000 RPM safely.

http://www.holley.com/HiOctn/ProdLine/Products/IEC/IEC_pics/fLMT2.jpg

When you think about it the way GM casts their blocks creates a necessity to add clearances at the foundry or during the initial machining processes for just a stock set up so in all adding to what they already did is no step. A 383 will get a flatter tq curve than a 350 but both can produce about the same amount of horse power at about the same price.