ok here is the deal, there are two 350s at work. i can probably have which ever one i want for under 200.

the firstone is out of an 89 subburban, it is torn down, needs the crank turned and 1 cylinder bored and sleeved. it has heads, dont think it has an oil pan, and i have extra valve covers, if i can i will use my 267's intake + carb until i can afford better. i have to pay the $100 core charge and it is mine, plus the repairs i mentioned(gaskets too). o it has 56000 miles on it.

the second has been sitting in the back of the parts department for 8 years. it was replaced under warranty (so it has less than 37,000 miles on it) 8 years ago. all it needs is some new main bearings (it had a cold start knock) but im not too sure if the boss will sell it to me, the manager thinks he would let it go for 150. not to sure about it sittin there for 8 years with oil in it, and maybe coolant (i will have to check)

so my question is, which one do you think would be the best for the buck. i already have my mind mostly made up, i just want to hear other people re-assure me... :D thanks alot.

If it were me, the first one wouldn't even be a consideration, if it has to have a cylinder resleeved. As far as boring a single cylinder, if your going to bore 1, you might as bore all 8 .030 over. The one out of the Suburban is probably a 4 bolt main block, which would be a better block to start with, and maybe it's a roller cam block at that, but I'm not sure of this. However if it has some serious damage to the point of having to have a cylinder re-sleeved it' not worth it. Concerning the second one, 37K and in need of new main bearings?...that's not all it's going to need, it's going to at least need the crankshaft reground also at the very least, that engine was badly abused. Sounds like both engines were badly abused! Just be aware that both engines are probably going to need a total rebuild and that is going to drive up the cost. I see no employee deal here. I can go to just about any boneyard and pick up a 350 4 bolt main complete engine that needs a rebuild for between $100-$200 out of a 3/4 or 1 ton pickup or Suburban. As far as the engine sitting there for 8 years, that didn't do any further damage to it that hasn't already been done other than maybe some minor rust, unless someone has been picking it up and dropping it. I have 350 4 bolt main blocks laying around my garage with rusted machined surfaces...they clean up when the machine shop gets ahold of them and does their thing. Either of these engines, will need rebuilding, keep that in mine, and maybe keep looking other places for a block that hasn't been damaged.

The Burb block will also need to be Magnafluxed to check it for cracks. However sleeves, although it does cost a bit, is not in its self a bad thing. Most all Aluminum Block have Cast steel sleeves. Almost all Diesels have sleeves, new. So sleeving the engine is not a big issue, if it is a desirable block. I'd say that one is not.

Go to the bone yard. Pull a block from an late model Chevy so that you get the Gen IV (I think that is what they are called) single piece main, with the OEM Roller Lifters. Way better block that the older GM Blocks and the roller cam and lifters are worth their weight in gold, speaking from a performance / economy standpoint.

My Put anyway.

As far as boring a single cylinder, if your going to bore 1, you might as bore all 8 .030 over.

it has already been bored .40 over on all cylinders. one cylinder is pitted so bore it .60 over and sleeve it so i wouldnt have to get new pistons. and the engine that was replaced under warranty wasnt abused, gm had problems with cold start knocks in thier 350's during the early 90's. no big issue there. our 94 siverado does the same thing. just picky people wanted a new engine under warranty. both a re just 2 bolt main. im leaning way towards the one that has been sitting in the back. it is way more complete. it just needs new main bearings, and a little tlc :D of course a new engine would open up a whole new can of worms... transmission, possibly drive shaft, rear end....... ahhhhhhhh...... i need a nap.

Go for the second engine that just needs new bearings. The first engine sounds like a basketcase, all of the repairs that it needs definitely put it out of consideration. If I were your boss I'd give you both engines to get rid of them.

If I were your boss I'd give you both engines to get rid of them.
:lol: :lol: you dont know my boss!! he has old computer terminals (the black and green screens) sitting back in parts b/c he wont throw them out! he pulled a little foam piece that came with a seatbelt out of the trash, b/c he said you could use it for something! he throws NOTHING AWAY! that engine has been sitting for 8 years b/c he wont sell it! hes not just my boss, he is the owner.

your boss and mine must be related :-D

Go to the bone yard. Pull a block from an late model Chevy so that you get the Gen IV (I think that is what they are called) single piece main, with the OEM Roller Lifters. Way better block that the older GM Blocks and the roller cam and lifters are worth their weight in gold, speaking from a performance / economy standpoint

. I agree, this would be the ideal block to start with, but if you can't get your hands on one go with an older 350 4 bolt main block! Stay away from either of the two your boss has. If your going to have to put your money into a block that has to be rebuilt, might as well make it something good. If you think that the one that needs new main bearings is all that it's going to need, I wouldn't bet on it. It's possibly going to need the crank main bearing journals ground too...or more! If your going to put that kind of money into it, then get a 4 bolt main block. On the other hand if your boss gives you the motor...take it, and rebuild it...completely. There are some good engine rebuild kits out there that are inexpensive, check Northern, we have a 350 in a 3/4 ton pickup that has a Nothern kit (.030 over) at it's doing just fine as a daily work truck that gets used a lot in constuction business (80+ miles per day). Also boring .060 over with a 350 doesn't mean it has to be resleeved. .060 is a standard overbore and .060 pistons are relatively inexpensive if you go with cast pistons. Boring one cylinder and then resleeving it will cost almost as much as boring 8 cylinders and buying 8 pistons. Do all 8, install new bearing and your good for another 120K miles or more (unless you abuse motors like I do)! :lol: