So it looks like the starter in my '72 needs replaced. Looking at it, I see several "performance" starters. As I need to replace it anyway, I'm wondering is there much benefit to be expected from a performance starter vs. a run-of-the-mill OEM-type?

Lol, nope. I fail to see the logic in "performance" starters, because they do just that, START a motor. There is no starting an engine "better", it starts or it doesn't. Besides, it's not how you start your engine, it's what you can do AFTER it's started ;) I guess at the same time you don't want to get the cheapest either, unless you have a "starter changing fetish", lmao. Anyway, just pick somethin' up from Advanced Auto, Autozone, or whatever, and opt for something in the less than $250 range. Anything more is a waste.

get a starter for a 1993 K2500 with a Big block 454. High torqe mini starter, it is perfect if you plan on putting on headers.

Another quick question on the matter... Looking through the Haynes manual for my car, it says:

If, when the switch is actuated, the starter motor does not operate at all but the solenoid clicks, then the problem lies with either the battery, the main solenoid contacts or the starter motor itself or the engine is seized.The battery should be good... That was the first thing I checked (tried jumping my car off with no luck... and headlights and all still have plenty of juice to run on but the engine won't turn over at all when I try to start it). After turning my car off for the last time before I couldn't get it started again, I did notice a little smoke coming out from under the hood... coming from the passenger side, underneath the engine. As this is where the starter is located, I believe (or at least, hope ;)) it's not a problem with the engine being seized. Other than what the manual says, do you guys have any advice on how to go about fixing this? Does it sound like it could be a loose wire/contact problem? Or do I likely need a new starter and/or solenoid? Thanks.

ETA: I suppose I should specify that when I turn the key, I hear a single "click" sound, and that's it.

Get a large ratchet and put it onto the front crank bolt. If you can rotate the engine by hand, it's not seized. Pulling the spark plugs out will make it much easier as you won't be fighting compression when you do that, but if it turns at all, you're OK there.

The performance starters you are looking at is probably a gear reduction starter. For a stock car it is not really needed, when you start getting heat soak from headers then it is nice to have for the extra cranking power.

Try cleaning the contacts on the starter solenoid first before you run out and buy another starter. If you buy a new starter...it has to correspond with the number of teeth on your flywheel...either 153 or 168 teeth...buying a mini starter (the one Baby blue 72 mentions) for a 454 is for 168 teeth...if you have the original motor, you most likely have a 153 tooth flywheel if it's anything other than a 400 or 454...some high performance and newer 350's (truck motors) could be either...don't get ripped buying some expensive starter...it's not needed...on the other hand, one that's cheap...probably is cheaply made. Also it could just be the solenoid that's bad and not the motor itself...some auto parts stores can bench check it for you...or you can even do it yourself if you know how...try cleaning the contacts first though at the solenoid...remember to disconnect the positive battery cable at the battery first. The only real benefit to a mini starter is it's less likely to be effected by heat, especially when headers are installed, it's easier to maneuver into position and it's so light you can hold it with one hand while you start the bolts with the other hand...great if your on your back trying to do this...for me those last two are enough reasons alone. Also...if you do go with a mini starter...make sure it comes with bolts...using the stock length bolts will not work with a mini starter and can cause you to crack the block when you tighten them up...I found out the hard way.

Oh that sounds like a costly lesson!
Those are the kind you (never) forget!!!
Donny

If you buy a new starter...it has to correspond with the number of teeth on your flywheel...either 153 or 168 teeth...buying a mini starter (the one Baby blue 72 mentions) for a 454 is for 168 teeth...if you have the original motor, you most likely have a 153 tooth flywheel if it's anything other than a 400 or 454...some high performance and newer 350's (truck motors) could be either...

Any easy way to tell? It's got a 350 (and the car originally had one, too), but the engine is not the original... and it was a previous owner (that I have no way to contact) that put it in. As far as I can tell, it seems to be a pretty run-of-the-mill 350, so should it be safe to bet on the 153-tooth? Or is there an easy way to be sure?

If it's not the original motor, it could be a 153 or 168 tooth flexplate. Remove the inspection cover and count the teeth. Remove the plugs, mark a tooth with a grease pen or anything visible and have someone turn the engine at the crank with a socket and ratchet. All you need to know is how many teeth there are...I'm not going to confuse you with externally balanced or internally balanced motors, crankshaft flange diameter or one or two piece rear main seal.

There is an easier way to tell whether the starter is for 153 or 168.
If the two mounting bolts are straight across from each other it is for 153 teeth. If they are staggered it is for a 168.
The only exceptions to that rule are the older (50s - early 60s) three horizontal bolt noses (starter bolts to bell housing) but anything is possible.

There is an easier way to tell whether the starter is for 153 or 168.
If the two mounting bolts are straight across from each other it is for 153 teeth. If they are staggered it is for a 168.
The only exceptions to that rule are the older (50s - early 60s) three horizontal bolt noses (starter bolts to bell housing) but anything is possible.Not sure if this is the case with newer 350s. My 94 350 truck motor (the one I cracked and is now junk) had an OEM starter with the bolts straight across from each other, 168tooth flexplate. The mini starter (the one Baby blue 72 mentions) I installed on a crate motor is staggered though.

Couple more questions... First, would a 160-ft-lb. starter do the job? Or would I be wise to look at one with a bit more torque (180 ft-lbs... I highly doubt I'd need anything more than that, if even...)? Second...

There is an easier way to tell whether the starter is for 153 or 168.
If the two mounting bolts are straight across from each other it is for 153 teeth. If they are staggered it is for a 168.Not sure if this is the case with newer 350s. My 94 350 truck motor (the one I cracked and is now junk) had an OEM starter with the bolts straight across from each other, 168tooth flexplate. The mini starter (the one Baby blue 72 mentions) I installed on a crate motor is staggered though.So we've got a case of a 168-tooth with straight bolts... Anyone know for sure if staggered bolts is a safe bet that it's a 168-tooth, though?

ETA: And... Anyone here have any luck/experience (good or bad) with Summit's own parts and equipment?

Well, I took the starter down to Auto Zone, and they said it checked out fine... So it looks like it's time to check out the solenoid contacts and make sure the engine hasn't seized... :unhappy:

So I got the starter and the solenoid checked, and both are good. I cleaned up the battery terminals and the contacts on the solenoid. I got underneath the car, about to try reinstalling to see if it would work, and I saw the problem... One of the wires going to the solenoid is bad... broken clean in half. The problem is that I'm not sure exactly where it goes to and wanted to see if anyone here knew. There are three wires going to two contacts on the solenoid. Looking at the picture, the point boxed in blue has one small wire going to it. The point in red has the other two... one large wire that goes directly to the positive battery terminal and the wire in question. Does anyone know where that runs to? It (along with the smaller wire) runs up toward the distributor, but without taking it off, I can't quite tell exactly where it goes. Any advice?

http://lh5.ggpht.com/_8uI0zdtJo_0/St-DoaaAYaI/AAAAAAAAAPA/rj8t8ENukKM/s512/8.jpg

The "blue box" wire is the wire from the ignition switch that activates the solenoid. The small "red box" wire is a 12 volt feed to other circuits. This diagram may help.
http://elcaminocentral.com/articles/wiring/722.gif

Thanks. I've got a diagram of the starting/ignition components in my Haynes manual, too, but just couldn't make out which wire went to where, as the colors don't match up (I don't have black, purple, and yellow coming off the solenoid). Thanks again, though.

Did you get the starter working OK ??

Well, it looks like we should just have to replace that wire to get it all working again... Does anyone know what temperatures it's subjected to down by the exhaust manifold? I've found some wire that's supposed to be good up to about 250 degrees, but if I need anything more than that I'll have to find it online and order it...

You will be fine with that, running it in its proper place.
I always use a heat sleeve such as this one ↓
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/THE-14010/
or this one, just to be on the safe side ↓
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/THE-17062/

I ran a gear reduction starter for a few years but the thing kept working itself loose even with loctite on the threads of the bolts. I just went back to my OEM starter and did a remote solenoid setup using a kit from Jegs. Heat soak problems solved and it fit my flexplate cover better too.

:yell:

Problem solved! Though we cheated a bit... The bad wire ran through some corrugated tubing conduit along with several other wires... Instead of trying to pull it out through all that, we were able to find the other end and just disconnected/taped over both ends, then ran our own new wire through it's own conduit (away safe from the manifold, block, and other hot engine parts) and made the connections.

The second (small) connection on Chevy starters is for cars with a point distributer and a ballast resistor. It bypasses the resistor while you crank your engine over so the full 12 volts goes to the coil. Once it's running the contact opens and your coil operates on a lower voltage. Full 12 Volts on one of these coils will burn it out quite quickly. HEI distributers and newer use the full 12 V. all the time.

One of the reasons I went to the geared starter was the weight. I had trouble lifting that OEM iron up in there. It's been working great, with no problems in three years.

Good to hear you have the thing working now.:smileyb:

I had starter problem and I know how it feels when the thing goes. Not fun stuff when your at a restaurant eating and want to leave. Then you wait for triple A to come.

I i

Not fun stuff when your at a restaurant eating and want to leave.

Luckily, I was able to squeeze one last start out of it before it went, so I could make it home from CVS... :)

I changed the starter on my niece's '87 Elco while laying in the snow in a parking lot. Bad part was, when I looked up at the ring gear, a few teeth were wiped out. We did get it running and then I had to move it into a garage and pull the trans to change the flex plate.
Fixing cars is sooooooo much fun!