I went to start my '87 the other morning and the battery was completely dead. I had the battery checked once it was charged and it tested good, it is only 7 months old. I tried using a test light between the negative terminal and the cable. When I first make the connection the light comes on but then goes out after a few seconds and does not come back on. It will do this every time I make the connection but will stay on a shorter amount of time. I pulled fuses until I found one that the light would stay off, it is the clock courtesy fuse. My radio,interior lights, and remote keyless is all on the same circuit. I did nothing else and the battery is staying charged with no issues at all. What I need to know is why the light comes on at all. I have no computer, all ecm & emissions items are removed. I have no interior light delay either they are just on & off when the door opens/closes. Whatever drained the battery a few days ago is no longer there. Any ideas would be appreciated.

My car has had a lot of messing with the wires in the past, alarm, stereo system, etc. I had a lot of problems with the battery discharging, I've been getting rid of all the extras and have found some ? wires that I've eliminated.
The car stays parked for a couple of weeks sometimes so recently I purchased a battery maintainer from Harbor Freight for $20, it keeps it charged and ready to be used.

remote keyless,,,clock,,,radio memory??? are on all the time...:texas:

remote keyless,,,clock,,,radio memory??? are on all the time...:texas:

Yes they are but the draw is so minimal it would not kill a good battery overnight.

:cali:http://elcaminocentral.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=239&stc=1&d=1258159952

check the alt. for bad Diodes,it only takes one to go bad.and you have at least 10 of them...:huh::cali:

OK here I go again, the battery is the most unreliable part on your car. Always suspect the battery first, it works off magic and some times the magic runs out. A momentary light of the test light is nothing to concern you when looking for a draw. The fact that it went dead and now is OK fits the whole unreliable thing. I worked in the car business for years and can't tell you how many times I heard from the customer "It can't be the battery", guess what, it can.

I had one of those dead-battery syndromes last month that bugged me a bit. Seemed like my rear brake lights were staying on intermittantly. After I cleaned and tightened all the battery connections, then changed the cables, it still didn't solve the problem. Then I got under the dash and saw that the brake switch was not fully releasing after stopping the car. I took the switch out and it tested OK, but noticed that it was not popping out fully after I got off the brake pedal. Took it out again and added a little dielectric grease to the plastic piston. Presto! Problem gone...at least until the next one. Which no doubt, will be the windshield wiper wiring.

:cali:http://elcaminocentral.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=239&stc=1&d=1258159952

check the alt. for bad Diodes,it only takes one to go bad.and you have at least 10 of them...:huh::cali:
Thanks, I can give that a look, but wouldn't that show on the gauge as low or no charge rate? I checked my dash gauge with a digital voltmeter and they were almost identical readings.

OK here I go again, the battery is the most unreliable part on your car. Always suspect the battery first, it works off magic and some times the magic runs out. A momentary light of the test light is nothing to concern you when looking for a draw. The fact that it went dead and now is OK fits the whole unreliable thing. I worked in the car business for years and can't tell you how many times I heard from the customer "It can't be the battery", guess what, it can.

Thanks for the response, I have also worked on or around cars all my life and you are so right. But, the battery was the first suspect and it was checked and passed with flying colors. Actually, you answered my main concern which was the test light coming on then going out, I was led to believe this was not right.

I had one of those dead-battery syndromes last month that bugged me a bit. Seemed like my rear brake lights were staying on intermittantly. After I cleaned and tightened all the battery connections, then changed the cables, it still didn't solve the problem. Then I got under the dash and saw that the brake switch was not fully releasing after stopping the car. I took the switch out and it tested OK, but noticed that it was not popping out fully after I got off the brake pedal. Took it out again and added a little dielectric grease to the plastic piston. Presto! Problem gone...at least until the next one. Which no doubt, will be the windshield wiper wiring.

Thanks to you also, I have a habit of checking things around my house in the middle of the night (pee call) and I would have spotted any lights on, inside or outside of the car.

OK here I go again, the battery is the most unreliable part on your car. Always suspect the battery first, it works off magic and some times the magic runs out. A momentary light of the test light is nothing to concern you when looking for a draw. The fact that it went dead and now is OK fits the whole unreliable thing. I worked in the car business for years and can't tell you how many times I heard from the customer "It can't be the battery", guess what, it can.
you know,your'e right..in my time ,I have run across some batterys where the "poles"were backwards,and some with internal short,stright from the factory..

so,yes,a battery could give you some problems..:beer::cali:

you know,your'e right..in my time ,I have run across some batterys where the "poles"were backwards,and some with internal short,stright from the factory..

so,yes,a battery could give you some problems..:beer::cali:

YA THINK ? (Couldn't resist ~~lol ) :dontknow:

I better check with Doug on that ! he-he how bout it Doug?

having a leaky gen 3, I know things just corrode all the time. The interior dome light came on, I just pull the bulb. Figure it out later..... Anyway, get a battery disconnect . It keeps the battery fresh and also serves as a theft deterrent.

My car has had a lot of messing with the wires in the past, alarm, stereo system, etc. I had a lot of problems with the battery discharging, I've been getting rid of all the extras and have found some ? wires that I've eliminated.
The car stays parked for a couple of weeks sometimes so recently I purchased a battery maintainer from Harbor Freight for $20, it keeps it charged and ready to be used.

having a leaky gen 3, I know things just corrode all the time. The interior dome light came on, I just pull the bulb. Figure it out later..... Anyway, get a battery disconnect . It keeps the battery fresh and also serves as a theft deterrent.

Thanks to you both for trying to help but my EC is my daily driver and I don't want to mess with a tender or a switch every time I get in it. I want to fix the problem not cover it up. This is not meant to offend, it's just my way of doing things.

Some of my friends with new cars tell me that they can't leave the car for a couple weeks while they are out of town, without the battery going dead. Strange. My old '85 Caddy beater will kill it's battery in about five days if it isn't driven. Too much electronic crap on cars, to please a fickle public.