Greetings! The 1986 El Camino that I just purchased has a true dual exhaust system done by the previous owner and in the process, the converter was removed. The AIR tube to the converter is just laying against one of the new exhaust pipes. I am on the verge of removing the AIR system from the car. It would be marked and photographed to aid in installation if I ever had to reinstall it. Only Albuquerque/Bernallio county have smog checks and I am in a very rural county with no checks so that part is not a forseeable problem. My only real concern is whether removing the AIR pump and its associated wiring/vacuum lines will cause a Check Engine Light and code. The removal is to clean up the compartment and to allow a future change to headers. For those who have removed the system, did you experience diagnostic codes? Thanks for any useful hints/tips!
Craig

No codes on my '87 305. I removed all A.I.R. related parts, including the pump, tubes to the exhaust manifolds, vacuum lines, temp sensor and wiring, as well as the EFE valve actuator. Prior to acquiring an emission-exempt classic plate, it actually passed PA emissions test with the A.I.R. system deleted.

Bill

EFE is that the same as EGR. I am thinking about getting rid of all of this as well, my 72 mach 1, (yes I know it is a ford, if it helps I really miss my 67 GTO too) did not have all this stuff and ran much better.

EFE stands for Early Fuel Evaporation. It's a temperature-controlled butterfly valve in the right side exhaust that restricts the exit of exhaust gas from the cylinders in order to build heat in the cylinders of a cold engine, thereby assisting in the evaporation of the incoming fuel mixture. Another Band-Aid for cold driveability and emissions in the 70's and 80's. EGR stands for Exhaust Gas Recirculation. The EGR valve meters exhaust gas into the intake to lower combustion temperatures, reducing NO2 emissions.

Bill

Let the "creeping oil" begin!! Good Lord.........I could barely find the RH side manifold air fittings. I had my can of oil turned every which way trying to hit those fittings. I will probably end up snapping things off knowing how these projects tend to go.
Craig

Cut or break the tubes at the fittings. You can then get a box end or socket wrench on the fittings. Work them back and forth, tighten and loosen, tighten and loosen, not just loosen. They will break free. Also hope you are using penetrating oil on the fittings, not motor oil.

Doug

Some of the things that help warm a cold engine work good in cold climates, even though they do rob a bit of power.
I had headers on my '73 Chevelle, so the manifold heat that went to the air cleaner snout was no longer there and in winter, the carb would ice up until the engine quit. I finally made a heat muff to go around the header pipe, and used the stock air cleaner in winter.

I removed the cats and the AIR system. No diagnostic codes on my 305 cid '86. I have also removed the electronic feedback Q-Jet and replaced with an edelbrock performer, and I have removed the original distributor and replaced it with a non-computer controlled HEI version. As far as the AIR tubes going into the exhaust mani, I have tried, unsuccessfully, to remove them. For now, I have plugged the opening, and I intend to replace the factory manifolds with a set of headers.

Thanks for all the great experience notes and tips! I will continue to use the Seafoam Creeping Oil on them. In fact, I just like the sound of "creeping oil". It sort of sounds like a late 50's horror film shot on the California coast. The end result of all this meddling around should be a GM L39 Vortec engine with a TBI setup. However, until the magic beans I planted grow money trees, I will do small steps of foolishness and keep annoying all of you with questions.
Craig

rushgator
I have an 87 305 and would like to remove all the computerised stuff the same as you have on your 86. Im in London UK, we dont have access to as much knowledge as you do in the US. Can you forsee me having any problems ?

I'm not sure what type of regulations, inspections, etc. you have to deal with on your side of the pond. Mechanically, you should have no problem removing the AIR system as described above. Can you register your El Camino as a classic and be emissions exempt?

I am thinking of removing the smog stuff of my 85 305 cabby, I have a few questions. Starting by removeing the pump and removing everything it feeds and disconnecting any wires to it and pluging the manifold holes, is there anything else Iam missing. Iam just trying to clean up the engine compartment, and no emmisions test in FL. Thanks Doc

No AIR system for me, and no codes. The metal tubing running to the manifolds I cut off with a saws-all, and used a ratchet to take them off, mine were kinda rough so I didn't want to put them back on anyway. Also, remember to use iron plugs for the manifold plugs, as another member said on here awhile back the iron manifolds expand and shrink at a different rate then a brass plug will, which could result in cracking the manifolds or having the plugs shoot out while youre driving. I found the plugs il needed at home depot, they sold them as "black metal plugs" or something like that, but they were clearly iron plugs, that were threaded with a square head at the top. I also made it so my efe valve would stay permenently open, because without the system I believe it could stay closed.

The EFE system, like Billy Jack described, has actually been around for decades, but not not operated by a vacuum actuator. The early types just had a climatic spring on the butterfly shaft, to close it when the engine was cold. The valve in either system forces exhaust flow through the passage under the carb base, to the other side exhaust manifold, to heat the carb base and intake plenum.

When looking at after market performance heads, they have no cross-over passage like the stock type. Cold mixture is more dense, so cold = more power etc.

EFE Could you tell me were it is? Thanks For the help, I will cut them off also and home depot the holes with iron.

welcome Doc
the efe valve is at the end of the passenger exhaust manifold where the pipe bolts up..:texas:

Thank You, Doc

The EFE actuator is likely on the passenger-side exhaust manifold, where the exhaust pipe is bolted to the manifold, and has a vacuum canister, with a link on it, to the EFE butterfly valve.

What about the o2 sensors? can those be removed as well?

Mike you cant remove the o2 sensor without disableing the computer control system,,
and replacing the carb. and distributer..:texas:

Hmmm, the EFE sounds like a later model of the heat riser system on older GM vehicles.

If Sea Foam doesn't work, try Kroil-Oil. It isn't cheap, but works great!!

rushgator
I have an 87 305 and would like to remove all the computerised stuff the same as you have on your 86. Im in London UK, we dont have access to as much knowledge as you do in the US. Can you forsee me having any problems ?

Having friends in UK, they describe having all kinds of emission regulations, and on much older cars. Check before you leap into doing something that just might have to be redone to get it to conform to the emission standards there. AND, that doubly applies if you're near London-Town. Have a couple of friends there, and it's downright terrible for the car enthusiastic.

Iam trying to post so pics of the EFE valve and a few things that I would like to remove I have the vacume line of the EFE valve, but I do not know if it is opened or closed and would like to remove it but how do I keep it open? Second are some what I think is smog stuff I would also like to remove this stuff. Any Help ? Iam new I can take it lol. Thanks Doc first three pics I hope!

http://s1189.photobucket.com/albums/z434/hddocfl/?action=organize