Ok, here's the deal...I'm a soon-to-be college kid that can't afford a 3500 dollar paintjob along with the body work i need. I was wondering if any of you guys have experience with places like earl sheib or something like that. The estimates on the body work for the car have been pretty consistant around $2500, I have a dent in the passenger quarter panel, and surface rust on most of the bed and roof, along with a spot where it has gone through the metal above the rear window on the drivers side. That hole isn't even big enough to put a pen through tho. I'm mainly just asking if these places do good bodywork jobs...any help what-so-ever would be appreciated. Thanks. :D

These types of places usually cut corners on prep work and bodywork. They spray paint decently because they do it all day long every day. Also, materials make a big difference too.

If you really like your Elky don't even say EARL SCHIEB within hearing distance of it.. Elky's have feelings also!

Better call Maaco instead of Earl......

Your best bet is to get a part time job at a custom bodyshop

let all the proceeds go to the elky

Actually you can get a decent paint job at a high volumn paint shop like Earl Sheibs. A good freind of mine who managed an Earl Sheibs clued me in. The painter at his his shop does 5-10 complete sprays everyday and has done done it for years. He has painted 1000s of cars--you think he didn't learn anything about painting a car! The secret is to find a painter like him and not a guy that started painting cars last week. If you prep and tape your car and ask for the highest quality paint they have (or provide your own paint) you can get a real good job.

If you're like me , your a high school senior. With little money in pocket and not really wanting a show room body resto. Ask around, family, friends, other restored car owners in public (they loved to be asked these types of questions), even random people at school. I found my paint guy after mentioning it at school. A friend of a friend found out and told me of an independent guy in town. After being quoted 1800 and 2300 he quoted me 800 with extensive bondo work (hint: many guys want to replace the metal, this means extra $$$). The rear window was similar, possibly worse and some spots of rust much like you described. Also he completed the job in 8 days not 8 weeks like other guys. What i forgot to mention is that this didn't include the bed. About the bed: rent or barrow a grinder and sander; spend about $75 on a ROLL-on bed liner and materials and it looks killer

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Check out the gallery link below and tell me what you think of the before and after!

I have seen some of the cars that our local Maaco has painted & they do a great job. One of their painters painted mine on the side & he did a great job. I wish I had done better body work prior to!

After being quoted 1800 and 2300 he quoted me 800 with extensive bondo work (hint: many guys want to replace the metal, this means extra $$$).

They replace the metal because anything other than a very thin layer of "Bondo" is not only added weight and time (Cost) but is not as good as having a good base surface. You can spend 200 on bondo work or replace the front fender for 129.00. Which would you choose? Cover a hole with a filler compound that absorbs moisture or weld it closed permanently sealing the surface, which would you choose?

Its a matter of quality. Both work but one will last the other will not. "Show quality and Bono" are Oxymoron's. You can pick up fenders in a Junk yard for about 40 bucks. Bondo is great for its intended use but that is clearing up minor imperfections not covering big dents or holes and I personally don't believe you should ever use bondo in an applications where it is not completely sealed in-between two layers of sealer. It absorbs moisture. It can swell over time and crack and even let go once rust sets in.

Sorry I am off the Bondo soap box. :-( :oops: :lol:

Bondo is a huge no, simply because of the things stated above and I have friends that used bondo...its not too good a few years later. I don't mind paying for bodywork, cause thats all I really care about. Paint isn't that big of a deal..so long as it shines its fine with me. As for the bed, I'm just gonna go with the rhino lining since I use it a lot for picking up random parts from a junkyard very few people know about and then selling them for more. 8-) I'm gonna check with some local small groups that have been in business for over 20 years down here, got the list from the bbb so hopefully they don't suck. Thanks for all the advice guys :)

Bondo (which is a brand name--the generic term is plastic body filler) is present on almost any car that has had body repair or custom modifications. Even top customizers like Foose and Coddington use it. It depends on how it's used. Only a very few use lead, and I've seen lead fall off also.

Thank you Mrapii for the defense. I'm not saying that bondo fixes everything. It just sounded like bondo would do what he needed.

You should get the metal as close as you can then use body filler to finish it.

There is pretty much no way anyone can hammer out a dent to look like freshly pressed steel panels. Bondo is for covering over those small imperfections. Skid marks from grinding wheels some body waves stuff like that. If it is applied well it works fine. If its globed over a dent that needed pulling and some hammer and dolly time then that just lazy and poor work. My opinion anyway.

Body filler and stuff like Ultra Smooth is for finishing work. I know that if you don't really know how to work led you can end up with a mess and frustrated. I don't use the stuff and never have. Heating panels is something else that sometimes is scary and working with led you need the heat. Too much and you end up with a buckle or warp you didn't need.

I am not against using body filler and if that is your thing hey go for it. I just think body filler is for small fixes. I saw a hood from a 68 Pickup, custom job really nice. I would guess it was one of the smoothest surfaces I've seen. It was painted in Black Emron with Purple pearl pin stripping painted in. Was beautiful work, hand buffed great looking. Problem was the bondo that was used to cover, I think the entire hood, was cracking from vibration stress and the stress of opening and closing the hood.

That was just too much bondo! Sure it was smooth but at what cost later. We ended up replacing the entire hood it had rusted under the paint. I would estimate the paint job on that truck to have ran that guy into 5 to 6000. I would guess the whole job he paid was well above 20,000.00 for the work. And less than five years later we replaced the hood. I can imagine what the metal under the body paint was starting to look like. It was done by some Custom Place in Ca and the truck was from Oklahoma.

Its just a pet peeve with me. I am not trying to criticize you or your truck or bang you over the head. I guess its the word "Bondo" that unnerves me, like someone dragging their finger nails across a chalk board or squeaky bed springs. :D Sorry no offence intended really.

Heh, I'm well aware that a bit of bondo won't hurt, and will probably be needed. However, I'd much rather have metal if its possible and then some filler to make it all smooth and such. And the people I know have used bondo for every single thing on their cars...its quite sad really.