Just changed most of my interior BLUE plastic pieces to Dupli-Colors Desert Sand. Looks great, but it seems to scratch too easily.

1. Cleaned the part with a mild solution of TSP and scrub brush.
2. Cleaned with paint thinner
3. Built up paint with several thin laysers of the Duplicolor about 5 -10 min apart as it says on the can.
4. Let dry several days.

Took one small pieced and sprayed with BULLDOG enhancer first, but don't see much difference.

Took another piece when dry and sprayed with a clear MATTE finish. Looks OK but don't know how it will hold up.

Need some advice about how to make it more durable. Start over? Spray with a Clear cote?

I use a heavy grade primer on all my parts I paint, weather it's inside or out side. Seems to hold up well.
Donny

No offense, but IMO your prep work wasn't sufficient. The scratches are likely due to an inadequate bond of the paint to the base material. I've done a number of interior pieces, including steering wheels and my routine is always the same: 1) Clean with a strong detergent to remove any dirt, silicone dressing or contaminants. 2) Scuff with a purple Scotch-brite pad until you are absolutely certain every single millimeter of the surface has a good 'tooth" for the paint. 3) Wash, rise and dry one more time to remove any sanding dust and contaminants from handling. 4) Shoot the paint according to mfr's recommendations. I've used Plasti-kote, SEM and Lucite with good results, but as I said, it's all about the prep work. Sorry, but you need to start over again if you want it really right.

Bill

No offense, but IMO your prep work wasn't sufficient. The scratches are likely due to an inadequate bond of the paint to the base material. I've done a number of interior pieces, including steering wheels and my routine is always the same: 1) Clean with a strong detergent to remove any dirt, silicone dressing or contaminants. 2) Scuff with a purple Scotch-brite pad until you are absolutely certain every single millimeter of the surface has a good 'tooth" for the paint. 3) Wash, rise and dry one more time to remove any sanding dust and contaminants from handling. 4) Shoot the paint according to mfr's recommendations. I've used Plasti-kote, SEM and Lucite with good results, but as I said, it's all about the prep work. Sorry, but you need to start over again if you want it really right.

Bill
Are extreme color changes reasonable? Say going from Tan to Red or a Blue? Provided the proper prep work is done should one expect minimal scratching and good durable color change? Or is it really best to stay with similar color? But, I see many of the new reproduction panels are black, and you color those.

I went from burgandy to black after cleaning I used a paint adhesion promoter for painting over plastic and vinyl both dupli color products has held up good with only 2 light coats of black you dont need to build up the paint like when you are painting the exterior of your vehicle.

What is lucite if I may ask? And what does it do? As I had the same problem.

Thanks

Lucite is a paint brand.

thanks

Don't use paint thinner as a final cleaner/prep. It leaves an oily residue that paint won't adhere to. Go to a paint supply store and get wax & grease remover. Wipe it down with a clean cloth and follow up with a tack rag, also found at the paint store.

Everyone will give you different advice based on their own experiences, so here's mine. I used SEM dye, and they have a system they use that consists of several steps using their products. I followed their program and I'm quite happy with my own results. Never tried any other brand, but the key seems to be prep. It can't be too clean prior to paint/dye.

I have had lots of troubled in getting the parts clean enough to paint. I was told to us alcohol, but I have not always had it work for me.