I took my elky into a mechanic too turn down my idle because it was running way too high. like 25 to 30 with my foot off the gas, and he says I need a new carb and it will cost 280 bucks. now, I don't know anything about cars, but I wan't too, so do ya'll think this mechanic is for real and how can i check if he is lying or not besides a second opinoin cause im going to get one anyway.

My choke on my car sucks pretty bad, takes a little while to get the rpms down after i start. When you start it, after a little bit, you have to put the gas down quick to get the choke to come out, you ever do that?

ps. when i mean quick, just put it to the floor real fast and put it down, don't know if thats right with other carburated cars(my only one i have driven), but since my choke sucks, it usually takes a few tries at it, then the idle lowers a lot

Don't know what carbs you guys are talking about but all carbs have a choke to enrich the cold mixture and a fast idle cam to make the engine idle higher with the choke on. Both the choke duration and fast idle speed are adjustable. Take your Elkys to a better mechanic or get a factory manual and learn how to do it yourself.

If you are talking about a Quad, It sometimes takes some trial & error to get it right.

My choke has a problem with sticking, and i'm pretty sure my carb needs a rebuilt(its some little 2 barrel the previous owner put on, losing hp!)

These days, it is difficult to find a mechanic who knows how to set/adjust an electronic Quadrajet. Most of the "old heads" have retired or moved on to other things because fuel injection put them out of business. However, there is one good way to tell if a mechanic is capable of working on an e-carb. Ask him he has access to one of those special Rochester e-carb tool and gauge kit. Rochester manufactured and sold them for $300 - $600 each. They are necessary to set both the lean and rich authority, float level, TPS voltage adjustment, etc. I know a guy who can rebuild an e-carb with the best of them, even re-bush the throttle shaft, but he cannot adjust and set the aforementioned items because he does not have one of those tool kits. If you find an old timer who has one of those tool kits, you are on the right track.

I once asked a so-called professional carb re-builder if he had such a tool kit and he said "no, but I set it to factory specs". I can't imagine how he could do that without the gauges and tools. Be careful to avoid being ripped off. In the end, you may be forced to buy a carb from a local parts house. If I were you, I would not buy the carb you mentioned without a solid, money back for any reason, guarantee. Good luck.

Rebuilding a modern carb, esp. a feedback carb requires a fairly high skill level which is beyond the abilities of many people. Unless I had previous experience I would not attempt it.

Ask him he has access to one of those special Rochester e-carb tool and gauge kit. Rochester manufactured and sold them for $300 - $600 each. They are necessary to set both the lean and rich authority, float level, TPS voltage adjustment, etc.

Guess what: YOU, TOO can be a "big-shot" CCC carb rebuilder/adjuster... and the proper tools to become one will cost you no more than about $40! Both the adjustment drivers and a gage set are available from Thexton: see the 2nd picture here:
http://members.dandy.net/~k0xp/Oldsmobile/ElectronicQjetPix.htm

The drivers set is Thexton 380, at $17.95, and the gage kit is Thexton 370, at $9.95, both available from ToolSource:
http://www.toolsource.com/ost/product.asp?sourceid=NO+SOURCE&dept%5Fid=500&pf%5Fid=54377&mscssid=CJ2K3BT80QTF8GE9WAB07FWV3CFMAX6F
http://www.toolsource.com/ost/product.asp?sourceid=NO+SOURCE&dept%5Fid=500&pf%5Fid=54367&mscssid=CJ2K3BT80QTF8GE9WAB07FWV3CFMAX6F

(sorry, I don't know how to make loooonngg links look real short ;o(

In response to this man's question. Is there an aftermarket carb by Holley or Edelbrock that is a direct replacement fot the Rodchester feedback carb? I would like to know, because I am having trouble with my four barrel on my 85' 305. Mine warms up okay, but hesitates badly when I step down on the gas. I'm thinking about replacing it.
Don Strautz

get a road demon..I have heard nothing but posotive things about them..the jrs cost just about as much as a holley or edelbrock...When i get my elk straightened out im gonna make the switch..

mine was idling real high too, it is the choke thermostat... runs round $70... it is warm though now, and you could just take it off and run with out a choke for the summer

......I am having trouble with my four barrel on my 85' 305. Mine warms up okay, but hesitates badly when I step down on the gas. I'm thinking about replacing it.
Don Strautz

There's LOTS of other things that can cause hesitation like that. One of the more common is the EGR valve. Try disconnecting and plugging the vacuum hose on the EGR valve and see if it goes away. You can even test this without driving the Elky: simply leave it in Park/Neutral, then bring the rpm up with the throttle. If it starts running rough and misfiring at around 1500 and smooths out somewhat above maybe 2000, the EGR is opening too far or the restrictor washer is missing. Or possibly a bad EGR gasket but that's unlikely.

Other causes include:
- dirty air cleaner element
- vacuum leaks (bad vacuum hoses)
- bad accelerator pump

If the hesitation occurs when you open the throttle pretty wide but is OK during normal stop & go driving, look at the secondary flapper operation. If the spring is set too loosely, the flapper will open too quickly, leaning the engine and causing bog/hesitation.

SteveH

mine was idling real high too, it is the choke thermostat... runs round $70... it is warm though now, and you could just take it off and run with out a choke for the summer

Dunno where you've been finding the chokes for $70 but even
http://www.discountautoparts.com has them for half that.
http://www.carbsunlimited.com has them for even less.

Better yet, just snatch one from a Yarde car.

But the choke thermostats rarely go bad; more likely, the problem's gummed-up linkage or even just misadjustment. When you rebuild a carb, you really don't need to disassemble the choke itself; simply unbolt it from the carb body and wipe it off using kerosene or 91% iso alky then put it back on while reassembling the carb. You almost NEVER need to remove the rivets holding the cover but if you do, make sure you scratch a mark into the cover and body so you can reset the cover to the exact same place where the factory had it.

SteveH

The Best Guy In NC Is Larry Sutton, Reliable Automotive , Carburetor & Ignition Specialist, 252-637-4770 , He Is Doing It For Over 35 Years, Great Guy
If He Can't Fix It It An't Broke

I took my elky into a mechanic too turn down my idle because it was running way too high. like 25 to 30 with my foot off the gas, and he says I need a new carb and it will cost 280 bucks. now, I don't know anything about cars, but I wan't too, so do ya'll think this mechanic is for real and how can i check if he is lying or not besides a second opinoin cause im going to get one anyway.
Find yourself another mechanic or get a manual for your Elky.First check for vacuum leaks if there are no leaks put a tach on her and remove the air cleaner top to make sure the choke opens as it warms up ,if it opens raise the air cleaner base and look on the passenger side of the carb just in front of the choke pod you will see linkage watch that and just tap the throttle a weighted piece of linkage should drop down a little and the idle should slow down if it does not drop the choke pulloff vacuum pot isn't working and it's at the back of the carb same side as the choke it releases the choke fast idle.
With Rochester carbs another problem is wear in the baseplate around the throttle shaft and to check this, with the engine off open the throttle and see if there is play by wiggling the throttle back and forth and up and down.If there is too much play it can cause a fast idle or rough idle and would necessitate a carb change or rebuild with the baseplate rebushed.
If all that checks out your timing may not be set correctly according to the manual and the emissions label on the vehicle.

In response to this man's question. Is there an aftermarket carb by Holley or Edelbrock that is a direct replacement fot the Rodchester feedback carb? I would like to know, because I am having trouble with my four barrel on my 85' 305. Mine warms up okay, but hesitates badly when I step down on the gas. I'm thinking about replacing it.
Don Strautz
That I know of there isn't a replacement other than Q-Jet computer controlled carburetor but your problem is most likely the accelerator pump in the carb.
Check this site www.florida4x4.com (http://www.florida4x4.com) it has a lot of info on rochchester and what you read about 4 barrel is the same for 2 barrel less the secondaries.The info will be under TECH Quadrajet
The biggest difference is in the E4 or E2 carbs ,once you remove the carb top inside the bowl you will see a solenoid that controls the metering rods gently screw the stud in while counting the number of turns and write that number down and when you put it back together gently screw it all the way in then back it out the correct number of turns(be careful because the stud is made of zinc and will easily).

Don,
Remove the air cleaner, and look down the primary (smaller) barrels while you stroke the throttle with the engine off. You should see two nice streams of fuel being squirted into the primaries. If not, you likely need an accelerator pump, which is under the air horn on the left front side of the carb, with linkage that connects it to the throttle. Goodcruiser's advice is right on if you're doing a complete rebuild, but if you are just replacing the pump, you won't need to mess with the primary metering rods. If yours warms up OK, it's unlikely you have any serious vacuum leaks, which can be another cause of hesitation, but considering the age of our vehicles, it wouldn't hurt to check all the vacuum lines and replace any that are cracked, brittle or leaking. Actually it wouldn't hurt to replace them all period.

Bill

Notice that his thread started back in March, 2004. Hopefully, he's got it fixed by now:let_it_all_out:

:poke:yep,,but you just never know for sure....:texas:
:You_Rock:

sometimes when you see something you may have that same problem and need some help. Does anyone know where I can get the linkage parts to connect my kickdown to the Edlebrock carb? It needs some bracket. There is not a hole to put the pin into. I am running with it disconnected now. Wish I was in Texas:texas:

sometimes when you see something you may have that same problem and need some help. Does anyone know where I can get the linkage parts to connect my kickdown to the Edlebrock carb? It needs some bracket. There is not a hole to put the pin into. I am running with it disconnected now. Wish I was in Texas:texas:
Just installed mine this afternoon. I used summit part# hly-20-45 for my kickdown on a th350. Try www.summitracing.com (http://www.summitracing.com) The bracket is listed for Holley but worked just fine on my Edel carb and Preformer manifold. Hope this helps

Vacuum leaks are one of the most common problems, making folks fix all types of other things to fix the problem. Replacing ALL the vacuum hoses (these cars are all old) is the first step to eliminate any question about leaks, and continue on from there.
It would be interesting to know how many carbs, EGR valves etc have been replaced because of leaky/cracked hoses.

Vacuum leaks are one of the most common problems, making folks fix all types of other things to fix the problem. Replacing ALL the vacuum hoses (these cars are all old) is the first step to eliminate any question about leaks, and continue on from there.
It would be interesting to know how many carbs, EGR valves etc have been replaced because of leaky/cracked hoses.

x2 on that one. I changed air filter, fuel filter, spark plugs and wires; distro cap and rotor, pcv valve, o2 sensor and carb just to find out that my TVS or TPS had a crack and was causing a vaccum leak.

Changed all of the above and the hoses and have had no real issues other than the carb I bought from Guareenteed Carb is running way rich. Other than that....runs pretty good. No hesitation, just running rich.