I finally got my 1980 El Camino back on the road after a long 8 months of it being torn apart completely to rid it of ants, rust and old interior. I finally took it on it's first test drive last night with almost NO problems minus a few electrical problems which I took care of today. I took it on one more short drive (luckily) and pulled it back into the garage and noticed a HUGE oil leak all the way down the driveway and into the garage. It's coming from behind the intake manifold somewhere and running all the way down to the transmission. It's either the new distributor I put in leaking at the base or the intake manifold gasket is my guess...
If I find it to be the intake manifold, I am thinking about using a 500 cfm Edelbrock carb with an aftermarket aluminum intake manifold (I have a few to choose from). The engine is a 4.4L 267 V8 which is only temporary until I am done building my 355 in the garage. I was thinking about dropping this carb and manifold on temporarily and get rid of some vacuum lines and hopefully have it run a bit better. I rebuilt the 2 barrel carb on it now and it's much better but not exactly right still. I know the 500 cfm carb is a little big for this tiny 267 but figured it's better than the 2 barrel.
My question to you guys is if I do this swap then will I be able to use the stock throttle bracket and kick-down bracket or will I need an aftermarket unit?

Any info, suggestions or opinions would be greatly appreciated!

also check the oil pressure sender/switch,, left/driver side of the distributor,,if its on top??
if not there should be a 1/8" pipe plug there or something...:texas:

Typically any aftermarket carb will need a different bracket and Throttle attachment point to make the kickdown/TV cables work properly. You might be lucky- just depends on what you have specifically. Check out tvmadeez.com http://www.tvmadeez.com/article/index.php They might list your carb there.

Thanks for the info guys. JJLT1, again you are right on the money I think. I looked at it and it seems this switch is the area that the oil is pouring out of. Do I replace it with a whole new switch?

the sender/switch is a sealed unit,,parts store should be able to get u 1..
let them know if u have a gauge (sender) or a light (switch) in the dash...:texas:

Shawn:
just completed an Edelbrock intake and 500cfm carb on a 229 V-6 .( runs great)
You can use the original cable bracket that bolt to the back of the engine,but you will have to devise a bracket for the carb,kick down.I attempted to make the original one work, but it did'nt fit right, so I opted to fabricate my own design, all it has to do is operate the trans cable by pulling it forward.
As i understand it, when carb if wide open, kick down cable is fully extended forward.

JJLT1, I went to Auto Zone and they didn't have what I needed. They said the Oil Pressure switch is for 80 or 60 psi gauge. I told them it's not a sender and that it's a switch for a Oil Press light. One of them became a smart a$$ and said, if it doesn't have a gauge then there is to switch. I told him to forget it and that I will get it online or from someone else.

bonos40, do you have any pictures of your home made trans kickdown bracket? I am not sure about doing the whole swap since I do not really want to spend money on this crappy engine and would rather use the money into the 355 to get it finished, but if I have to pull the intake and valve covers, etc I will go ahead and do the swap while it's all off.
Any pictures of your bracket and engine compartment would be greatly appreciated!

JJLT1, do you know what size socket I will need to take this Oil Pressure Switch off? I tried a 15/16 socket but it's too small and it's the biggest socket I have including open end wrench as well...

Shawn it actually takes a socket made just to fit the sending units. Grab a cheap one at the parts house. Channel locks or vise grips are NOT the answer.

What 464elky said..........:smileyb:

Ok I did not know this. Thanks for the heads up. I will grab this tool tomorrow and purchase the switch as well to hopefully fix this problem. I also found another cab leak below the rear glass which was the seam in the bed. I fixed that today as well I believe. Whew almost there. I have a handful of problems to go through and fix still so hopefully tomorrow I will cut that list down in half again like I did today. :)

Any idea if this is the correct size socket I need? http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_1%22-&-1-1-16-Oil-Pressure-Sending-Unit-Socket-Autocraft_9040455-P_N3412_T|GRP2083____#fragment-3
The review on the site says no but the guy that did the review never stated what vehicle his did not work on...

That is it. Grab you one of those and you are good to go.

Well guys I bought the tool and the correct part finally... I pull the distributor and got the old one out and the new one in but only have one problem or question I should say... First off, do I tighten it all the way until it stop or until it's pretty snug? The one in there was cranked in very tight and the new one I have turned a LOT and it still is not bottomed out but I stopped so I do not over tighten it.
Also, there is a plastic clip that was around the whole switch and the plug area that seemed to hold it together but my question on this is which end is up and which is down? I think the thicker part that says RED on it is down but not 100%. The plug doesn't seem to snap into the housing of the switch, I tried pushing on it and it barely seats itself so I am guessing this plastic clip is what holds it into place?
The old one was not clipped on fully and all messed up so I did not have a reference to base the new one off of.
Sorry for all the stupid questions and again I greatly appreciate all the help you are providing me! :nanawrench:

Shawn, It is a pipe thread so it won't stop until it is too late. snug should do it. If it is not leaking you are in good shape.
the prongs and the connector won't let you plug it on wrong so if it will stay you should be OK there too. Not sure which way the little plastic snap thingy goes.

http://partimages.genpt.com/thumbs/50915.jpg (http://www.elcaminocentral.com/Detail.aspx?A=MPEOP6616SB_0168261132&An=599001+101980+50014+2014016)
x2..as long as the oil light comes on when u turn on the key,,and goes off when u start it,,,
no leaks...your good to go...wtg :texas:

Shawn it actually takes a socket made just to fit the sending units. Grab a cheap one at the parts house. Channel locks or vise grips are NOT the answer.
Channel locks or vice grips not the answer? Well there goes half my toolbox. lol
Be sure and put some thread sealent on the threads. As stated above just snug
tighten and the plug should only go on oneway.

Thanks for the info guys. The plug goes on either way but doesn't snap down, just sits on top and is held on with the plastic holster/clip. I got it all on with thread tape, etc and dropped the distributor in but now it's running horrible. I got a new Skip White Performance distributor. The car was running fine until I pulled it out and put it back in the exact same spot (I marked the housing and engine and the cap and rotor). It's running very badly. I started all over with TDC on piston #1 and try to time it but when I reach the 12 or 10 degree mark or anywhere where it's supposed to be the car runs VERY bad, wont idle and just burning fuel out the exhaust.
Any idea's here? I have restarted over 2 times now with the whole TDC on number one cylinder and dropping the distributor in so I know that it's right. I am getting so frustrated with this thing and gotta have it done and on the road tomorrow since it's my only car to drive at the moment and need it for work for the following day.

Double check all plug wires from what you describe either plug wires crossed or distributor
out of time. The dist. could be one tooth off when you droped it back in. I know you said
you marked everything but it sure sounds like a timing issue.Did you spin the motor while
the dist. was out ? If so you need to bring #1 back up to TDC on compression stroke
both valves closed. If not on #1 compression stroke you have the dist. 180 out.
Hope this helps. Also doubble check all vac. lines for leaks. If it ran fine to start it's
something simple now.

JJLT1, I went to Auto Zone and they didn't have what I needed. They said the Oil Pressure switch is for 80 or 60 psi gauge. I told them it's not a sender and that it's a switch for a Oil Press light. One of them became a smart a$$ and said, if it doesn't have a gauge then there is to switch. I told him to forget it and that I will get it online or from someone else.

!

Yeah, Your best bet with AutoZone is to know what you want, look up their part number online and just order there and pick it up at the store.

They are the same guys that tried to tell me I didn't have a 400 Small Block in my 74 because it wasn't in their computer. Guess that's what happens when you base your parts database on a Chilton manual.

I actually had to bring the vin and a shop manual and show them the original emissions sticker to prove it to them once.

BTW, it's in their system now..:nanawrench:

I did not turn the engine over while it was out. I checked all the plug wires twice... I am going to get back to it tomorrow since I am too frustrated with it. I thought maybe it was 180 out so turned it 180 again and it is worse now so I had it correctly. I am going to take the whole distributor out tomorrow and start all over including plug wires.

Also I noticed the oil shaft in where the dist goes is lose side to side. Any idea if there is supposed to be play in it? I had to turn it the second time when I restarted with the timing to get it to line up perfectly.

Shawn I know you are mad and I can't blame you. Did you try your old dist? Sometimes
it's good to take a break. You might pull the cap and rotor off and check the connections
also you could take the module out of your old dist. and swap in your new one. Just some
ideas to help out.

Getting the distributor to drop down into where it was according to a mark is not always the easy way. And some times you have to bump the starter to get the pump slot to line up etc. So it's likely that it's just a bit out of time, if it's running bad. Just a matter of getting the gear in the right position before it turns, to drop in where you want it.
Don't give up. We have all been there.
BILL

to set the timing,,did u disconnect the vacuum advance hose at the distributor,, and plug it ???
(just stick the hose on the air cleaner stud)..
if not,,that will throw your initial timing marks way off...
it still wont run just right,, untill you put the advance hose back on...
yea a little wiggle in the oil pump shaft is normal..:texas:

Shawn,
Check the balancer to see what shape it is in, it might have slipped and is why you are having such a tough time timing it. if the rubber looks blown out i bet it has slipped some. (been there)

Easiest way to make sure you are on #1 is to pull #1 plug. Put your thumb over the spark plug hole and have someone bump the starter, when you feel compression start turn the crank by hand with rotation till the timing mark is centered.

Now that it is on #1 go back to the oil pump drive shaft and turn it with a screwdriver till the slot points between #1 and #3 plugs you shold be able drop the distributor in with the rotor ending up pointing right at #1 cylinder. Remember the turn as it meshes with the gear....start the gear mesh with the rotor pointing at about #5 plug. might be more or less.
I have never had to bump the starter using this method to get the distributor to line up.

Thanks for the tips and help guys. I am going to give it another shot today. I am hoping it's not my distributor since it's a brand new one from Skip White Performance (which I know it doesn't mean it can't be defective). The old distributor is toast, the housing was cracked and messed up badly but the module inside may still be ok and I may swap it out. I have started over twice and here is what I did... Set piston #1 to TDC and lined up the marks until balancer pointed to 0. Dropped the distributor in until rotor pointed to about #1 piston. I then set the cap a little off to #1 as to get the car started enough to time it (done this before and worked every time). I unplugged the vacuum advance and plugged the line (not the distributor though). I set the timing to 12 degrees and it just wont run.
I literally have to set it way off timing mark past 16 degree's somewhere in the 20's I would guess (pointer doesn't even go that high).
Anyways I've had a break from this thing all night and most of the day today so I will be going out soon to give it another shot.
I'll report back soon with results. :beer:

Good news. I pulled the distributor, plug wires, etc and went through all the procedures again. Set to TDC on Piston #1, etc etc. Put the distributor back in, all the plug wires back in and double checked everything. Started up and timed it and it runs OK now. It doesn't run as good as before but I have it to about 12 degree's. The carb doesn't seem to be tuned up correctly but I will mess with it later. Either way it isn't leaking anymore oil from the oil pressure switch! :)
I greatly appreciate everyones help on this!

if the balancer did slip,ofcourse you need to replace it..
for now just put a new tdc mark on it,,
pull the #1plug out,,(driver side/left front)
roll the piston up to tdc,,(on the compression stroke)
and put a new mark on the balancer,, at the 0 on the pointer...
.
or at least its a check for the balancer...:texas:
if you look real close in the bottom of the plug hole,you can see the piston,
you can see when it stops,and starts back down...

wtg

John and JJLT1 have a good point about the balance ring slipping on the rubber damping material. Some go as far as 30 degrees, but usually wobble a bit then, which is the easy indication that it's NFG.

:You_Rock:

Thanks for the help guys. I do not think the balancer is bad, I didn't feel or see any problems with it. The engine has around 125,000 miles on it and it's the junk 267 4.4 Liter V8. As soon as I find a good set of aluminum heads or Vortecs and a nice cam setup (roller possibly), then I will be finishing up this 355 shortblock sitting in the garage and TH350 and swapping that in. Once that is done I will have a new drivetrain, new interior, new brakes and upgraded suspension, and next will be body work and all new weatherstripping. Car will be like new! :nanawrench:
I have a long ways to go on all of that but I am hoping by the end of this winter I will be ready and have all the parts gathered for the paint job and the new engine and trans dropped in already.

great job post pics plz:beer:

I will try to post pictures sometime this weekend when I get the camera back from my girlfriend. I have a lot of before, during and after pics of the interior and such already.
I am going to take the car out for another test drive today and see how it does. I did notice that I can hear a vacuum leak under the dash now that I hooked up the black hose to the round vacuum canister under the hood and also the TVS or one of them on the thermostat housing with two hoses coming off is leaking very badly.
Hopefully I can find the parts locally for the TVS and fix that today but so far no luck.