:patriot:Plug starter; I worked for years as an aircraft mechanic on the old Recp. engines, plugs on the larger engines like the R2800s we had on the PB4Ys, were hard to start esp. on the rear row. I used a foot long piece of plastic tubing that fit over the top of the plug. You can get the clear plastic tubing at any HD or Lowes or auto supply. Take a plug with you and make sure it fits tight on the ceramic.and does not let the plug turn when twisted. Get a good thick wall, so when you hold the end the plug will not bend down. This will allow you to start the plugs real easy and also prevent any cross threading since you can screw the plug in several threads before removing the tube and final torque. We always used an Anti-Sieze compound on the threads, prevents all kinds of problems later on removal, a good grafite lube works good.
DON BLACK ACLREDCABOOSE1@TAMPABAY.RR.COM

An old straight spark plug boot works well too.:texas:

I've always used a piece of vacuum tubing on the top only. Even on easy to reach ones. Prevents cross threading and pulls off easy after the plug is turned in. I can see where a hose to cover the plug body would work well on ones where you have to reach far to get them in. Thanks for the tip!

:beer: Randy

I cut a hole in the inner liner of the passenger side for a straight shot with the wheel off to the #8 plug. Now easy as pie to change that plug.

Any other tips on the 8 plug without cutting? Will a swivel socket work? :dontknow:

I use a plug socket that is made for an open end wrench on #8 plug and a few choice words.

I've jacked up the car to go through the wheel well for better access

I didn't try the plug socket and wrench. Did use the jack and reach in over the tire. I probably should remove the tire to get in there better. I think the next time I do it I am going to get extra wires with straight boots on the plug end for some of them. Mine were not even very old but the #6 had a hole burned in it from being against the heat shield.