ARrr-ghhh. Just kidding. So the 75 350 wants to die at intersections and when parking. I read the archives for help… The carb is a Rochester 2 jet built in 71 (I de-coded the number). I replaced the air filter, the breather, the PCV valve shook good, although it has a very loose connection in the crankcase. The breather has oil in it, but I am thinking that is a bigger fish to fry, maybe oil blowing by shot rings. Where the breather connects to the crackcase is loose too. Sprayed carb cleaner on the vac lines, as advised by this one guy, and listened for the idle to pick up, but got nothing. Based on spraying the carb cleaner into the jets, and the small jump in idle it makes me wonder if this is a half-arsed way to check for vac leaks. Compared to Haynes saying stick a hose in your ear it sounded better. Only had the car for a year, only started doing this more recently, initially seemed affected by weather? The vacuum break assembly is all loosey goosey, the vacuum break rod is loose and can get jam up the spring action. The butterfly closes on startup and then open most of the time…This whole carb thing seems pretty damn complicated. It won’t stall when I start it up and run it parked, only when I’m driving around.

Thanks for any ideas you might have. Since I have the dual exhaust, I want to put on a 4bbl, but not this summer, too many other getting to to daily driver status items remain. :)

J

The most common cause of hesitation is a badly worn accelerator pump in the carburetor itself. The way it works: When the driver quickly presses the accelerator pedal, the accelerator pump immediately squirts a small stream of gasoline directly into the throat of the carb. This gives the engine the quick "shot in the arm" it needs to immediately respond. Then the internal workings take over. The pump has done its job until the next time the accelerator pedal is quickly pushed.

It is an easy job to replace the pump, especially in a 2 bbl. Most good parts houses sell the pump individually - you do not have to buy and install a rebuild kit. However, be forewarned that too many performance problems are blamed on the carburetor. I have seen hesitation caused by bad spark plug wires, bad plugs, retarded engine timing, vacuum leaks, etc. There are others, but these are the main culprits.

Forgot to say, it is stalling more when I slow down, the take off usually is good if that matters.

With the air cleaner off, I thought I could hear a hiss of the accelerator pump when I hit the gas/turned the throttle. Does that mean it works or maybe it works, just poorly?

Guess I'll take a look at the spark plugs too.

Thanks-
J

If the engine is dieing when idleing maybe the idle speed is too low or the air/fuel mixture is incorect and the idle speed is unstable. Has the engine had a basic tune-up recently. Have you tried adjusting the fuel/air mixture. If you have a vacumn leak you can confirm this by "blipping" the throttle at idle. The engine should return immediately to idle, if it keeps the speed up with the throttle closed and then slowly (slowly is relative--an engine with no vacumn leaks will return immediately to idle and a vacumn leak will have a very slight reluctance to return to idle) return to idle. If it has a vacumn leak check each vacumn line connection to the carb/manifold. Pull the hose off at the carb/manifold connection and temporarily plug. If you test at the other end of the hose the hose could be leaking and you won't know. You can also have vacumn leaks at the carb base and the carb baseplate/carb body. The intake manifold can leak at the heads.