Alright, new guy here from Southern Indiana. Name is Jonathan, I'm 20, turn 21 in 1 month exactly! Anyhow, been a hardcore Chevy fan all my life, my first real car was a 1992 Camaro RS, I love that thing. Unfortunately I had to sell it after a medical discharge from the Navy.

Anyhow, while looking for a new car, I came upon this El Camino. I ended up giving the guy $600 yesterday, and the plan is to give him $200 each week for two weeks, but that is neither here nor there really.

So, first off, the guy says its an 1987. Title says 84, and when I plug the VIN into a decoder, it says 84. So he already is kinda dumb. Dude even said "Title says its an 84, but don't worry, its an 87." And yes, I did check and make sure the vehicle VIN matched the title.

Secondly, the guy says it has a 350 smallblock and 350 turbo trans out of an 86 Iroc Z camaro. One problem. The 86 didn't come with either that engine or transmission.

So, I am faced with the dilemma of trying to identify what motor this is. A 350 like he says, or a 305 like the El Camino came stock with. What is the EASIEST way to do this? If possible, I don't want to have to remove the motor, and wouldn't like to unhook anything, I'm kind of a klutz when it comes to mechanical work.

Also, there is front end damage. The driver side front fender, and the fiberglass piece that goes around the grill/headlights (What is that called)?

Here is a picture of the ad though.

http://gyazo.com/5aafc199e0b61b7babb2cfaa87638330.png

there is a machined pad on the block on the front passenger side of the motor, right at the head/block mating area. The numbers stamped into that pad can be decoded on here (someone will have a link to the codes) and it will tell you what it is/where it came from. Welcome to the site. We have all the info you'll ever need, and for free beer, will share it! JK LOL You will have to get over that klutz thing on a $1000 elco, or come up with a lot more $$!!

Welcome to the site. There are some bright people on here. Unfortunately I am not one of them. Ask anyone.

welcome aboard you'll need to work through that klutz thing or you are gonna need to hit the lotto!!!:dontknow: :smileyb:

SpecialK, I have some block casting numbers but my book may be prior 84. Do a SEARCH here. That's your first friend. then, just ASK. Welcome.

For a $1000 elco, it runs QUITE well. As far as I can tell it runs perfectly well. But my plan is to work on this to get over the klutz deal lol.

Once I find the casting numbers, I can decode em, I've found the decoders here, and on other sites. Its just finding the damn numbers. :???:

So, passenger side, near where the heads mount on the block, towards the front, is a pad. Gotcha. When I go this Friday to make the first $200 payment I will check.


Also, money isn't a HUGE issue, I work 50+ hours a week, the only reason I have to make payments on this car is because my car blew its motor so I just scrapped it and had to quickly get a car.

So, what would that front piece be? Goes around the grill and headlights, appears to be fiberglass.


But thanks for everything so far guys, I am looking forward to becoming an active member of this community.

Welcome to ECC!
Was the Elco from a dealer or private owner?Either way I hope the transaction is well documented to the agreement of what was paid up front and what the other payments are and when they are due,along with the VIN of the vehicle in question and you both should have a signed copy with both of your signatures. I take it the seller is holding title and possession of the vehicle till all fees are paid,if this is the situation take a witness and a digital camera with you and be sure to view the vehicle and photograph it with your witness and the owner in the photo frame with the car.If for some reason the seller does not hold up his end of the deal, this may be the only thing you have for proof that a deal was bartered and be sure to get a reciept of money paid and what is owed ,along with it stated paid in full on the last payment with a signature.
The photos also so condition of the vehicle at time of purchase, also get photo of the VIN.
That piece on the front is the header panel that holds the lights and the grille.

I like when the ad says " you can use it as a car or a truck". Its not a really good car with only 2 seats and It's not really a good truck with small load cap. You can't choose, lol.

Welcome to ECC!
Was the Elco from a dealer or private owner?Either way I hope the transaction is well documented to the agreement of what was paid up front and what the other payments are and when they are due,along with the VIN of the vehicle in question and you both should have a signed copy with both of your signatures. I take it the seller is holding title and possession of the vehicle till all fees are paid,if this is the situation take a witness and a digital camera with you and be sure to view the vehicle and photograph it with your witness and the owner in the photo frame with the car.If for some reason the seller does not hold up his end of the deal, this may be the only thing you have for proof that a deal was bartered and be sure to get a reciept of money paid and what is owed ,along with it stated paid in full on the last payment with a signature.
The photos also so condition of the vehicle at time of purchase, also get photo of the VIN.
That piece on the front is the header panel that holds the lights and the grille.

Private seller. He is holding the car, I have possession of the title currently, though nothing is signed on it as of yet. We have a handwritten agreement, two copies, that details the downpayment, payments over next 2 weeks, VIN, etc. Both copies are signed by both parties, and by a good friend of mine as a "witness". No pictures though. Thank you for the concern, and for the part.

The mirrors are correct for an 84. The fiberglass piece you are talking about is called the header panel. They come early and late style. Yours has four headlights, so it is a late style.

Thanks for that.


Also, for anyone. What should this thing idle at?

Because I believe there is a carb issue. Every now and then the throttle seems to get stuck partially open, where it will idle really high, enough to where if I let off the break the car will travel easily on its own, without my pressing the accelerator. To fix this, you have to quickly pump the pedal a few times. Then it idles down. But overall, it still seems to be high, if I recall correctly, close to 2k.

It was pretty chilly though during this test drive, below freezing I'd say. Don't know if it has any bearing or not, that is the excuse the guy used to explain it.

Sounds like the choke is either set too rich, and/or the choke linkage is not operating freely. Idle speed should be around 600-650 RPM in gear.

Bill

Sounds like the choke is either set too rich, and/or the choke linkage is not operating freely. Idle speed should be around 600-650 RPM in gear.

Bill

I took note of the idle while in Park. I will take note while in gear when I go down Friday to pay the first $200.

I was considering just getting a new Holley Carb, I know I should get around 600CFM, and a vaccum secondary, but I have no clue what model, electronic or manual choke, etc.

Thanks for the help.


Another thing. Is there any possible way to tell if it really is a 350 turbo tranny with it hooked up and in the car?

Here's a link to help id the trans.
http://www.maliburacing.com/auto_tranny_id.htm

Here's a link to help id the trans.
http://www.maliburacing.com/auto_tranny_id.htm


Thanks so much. So it'd be easiest to check out the oil pan looks like.

Yep quickest and easiest.:beer:

Welcome to the site. There are some bright people on here. Unfortunately I am not one of them. Ask anyone.
I'm in Bob's club. I can wash and wax it and shine the crome and I'm still learning to spell on here. But WELCOME to a great site, the two old guys, Michael and Bob from somewhere in another state.

I'm in Bob's club. I can wash and wax it and shine the crome and I'm still learning to spell on here. But WELCOME to a great site, the two old guys, Michael and Bob from somewhere in another state.

Well, thanks for the welcome guys!

Welcome to the site. There are some bright people on here. Unfortunately I am not one of them. Ask anyone.


It's true! In this projects box, bob is our round-nosed scissors.
But he IS awful cute.

:inlove:

It's true! In this projects box, bob is our round-nosed scissors.
But he IS awful cute.

:inlove:

Then I'm a box cutter that someone forget to put a blade into, lol.


So, does it look like I got a decent deal on this?

Welcome to ECC. With the high revving check that the choke is set properly, no linkage is binding. Also old Elkies are notorious for having vacuum leaks (likely not your problem as the rpm come down when you rev the throttle) but just beware when working on the carb it is very easy to "break" 25 year old vacuum lines. Just my 2 cents.

Welcome to the site. There are some bright people on here. Unfortunately I am not one of them. Ask anyone.
thats make two of us.:poke::beer:

Jonathon -- Nice to meet you earlier in the Chat Room to discuss your plans. Here is a link to another thread which has a direct connection to some of the things you need to check/fix on your new Elky:

http://www.elcaminocentral.com/showthread.php?p=280784#post280784

Jonathon -- Nice to meet you earlier in the Chat Room to discuss your plans. Here is a link to another thread which has a direct connection to some of the things you need to check/fix on your new Elky:

http://www.elcaminocentral.com/showthread.php?p=280784#post280784


It was nice meeting you as well. Thanks for all the help in the chat, and for the link.

welcome sounds like a choke adjustment or like mine the cruise control shaft at the diaphram (big black balloon by firewall) had to be flattened cause itwould lodge itself and shoot my idle up big time.
as for the carb check the idle its possible the owner raised it so it wont die.

if its equipped with a computer controlled carb and the comp. works keep thatand clean it up
2 years ago i never wouldve said that but its just like throwing the comp away.
if i wasnt goin to street it id toss it

Thanks eze. Don't follow everything you're saying, but check the choke adjustment and carb idle, and the cruise control diaphragm.


For identifying the engine, I was told this on another forum, does it make sense?

Well, it's not like you're alone. It's a very common question in these parts.

The last three digits of the casting number is often cast into the side of the block, and can be viewed from under the car. These 3 digits are sufficient to identify the block, which often identifies the engine. And, it's typically easier to see those numbers (they are much bigger, and you don't have to be Elastigirl to get to them).

that will tell you 305 or 350,,
the vin and engine code on the front pad will tell you everything..
also look down on the left side of the block,,above the oil filter,, see if there is a 5.0 or 5.7 cast in.:texas:

The casting number is on the upper left bellhousing flange, may take some cleaning. Looks like this:
http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/cc84/filde69/DSC08000.jpg
The stamped number in front of the right cylinder head looks like this:
http://i856.photobucket.com/albums/ab129/canted/stampednumber.jpg

:Welcome!: ask all the questions you want , Good luck with your project !!! :texas:

Alright, was talking to John H. about this in the chat, but I don't remember. The distributor does have a vacuum can, does this mean it is or isn't CC, and is or isn't stock?


Didn't get a chance to check the casting numbers, was a rushed day today.



Also, this thing idles HIGH when in neutral or park. What is up with that? If I mash the pedal a few times it will go down a little, but its still high.

Alright, got to tinkering more with the carb, looked at some online diagrams, etc. Going to set the idle lower tomorrow and see if that helps. Though the guy at the auto parts store, when I started to explain my problem, asked if it was an edlebrock carb. Said yeah, he asked if it was this model, showed me the box. Said I believed so. He said they were junk, that some suction deal was probably sticking, and that its a common issue. According to him, I'd be better off getting a Holley. If I buy a new carb, he'll install it and tune it and all for $40.

Noticed that the carb has an electric choke, but it isn't hooked up. There is a mess of wires off to the side, but none of them are hooked up, one that looks like it could go to the choke appears burnt up.


On other news, whoever did the engine swap was a retarded. There is no mechanical fuel pump, just an empty 4 bolt plate where it should be, and across from that on what I believe is the wheel well is a little rinky dink electric fuel pump.

Whoever did this just dropped an older motor in and didn't really hook any of the extra amenities up. It runs and drives, but thats it. Guess I'll be getting over that klutz thing pretty damn soon.

if you have a vac.dist. and a edlebrock?your not running the computer..

if the choke is not hooked up?? the choke wont turn off.. that could be most of the fast idle problem.
the idle screw probly wont make much differance..
id turn the choke down a little or adjust the fast idle screw,,its cold up there so youll have to play with it,,
see what works best till you fix it or get a carb,,id get a q-jet,,if u have the spread bore intake.
is there a spacer under the carb?? if so sometimes they leak and cause idle problems..
also the edelbrock dosnt like a lot of fuel pressure,,which also causes idle problems..
check it out and let us know..:texas:

[quote=SpecialK47150;280845]Then I'm a box cutter that someone forget to put a blade into, lol.quote]
yes very bright,but not sharp.:poke::beer:

dont get ahead of yourself unless you like wasting money you dont have.
first get possession of the car then start tinkerin you may just need to clean the carb and lube the linkage. 84 or 87 has a comp control carb with less settings to fart with(idle mix screw) and is suppossedly the optimum carb. if you look at the secondaries they are 2 and 1/4 ibelieve and wide open should almost pour gas in compared to edlebrock witch has the same size ports both being small. dont get me wrong iv had huge power coming from an old lt1 in my 78 z28 with a nice edlebrock but had i had a quad i probly wouldn't have lost the race that lost my car, about 2.5 feet.
yes i pinked it and not on pinks, god i hate that bald guy on that show.
did you see the one where he dumped his buddys bike tryin to be cool like me.lol

if you have a vac.dist. and a edlebrock?your not running the computer..

if the choke is not hooked up?? the choke wont turn off.. that could be most of the fast idle problem.
the idle screw probly wont make much differance..
id turn the choke down a little or adjust the fast idle screw,,its cold up there so youll have to play with it,,
see what works best till you fix it or get a carb,,id get a q-jet,,if u have the spread bore intake.
is there a spacer under the carb?? if so sometimes they leak and cause idle problems..
also the edelbrock dosnt like a lot of fuel pressure,,which also causes idle problems..
check it out and let us know..:texas:

I haven't noticed a spacer, I'll take a look and see.

Where can I get a Qjet carb? Can you still buy em new?

And can I adjust the electric joke when it isn't hooked up? If so, how? Like I said, I have no idea about carbs.

For a quick fix run a wire from the YELLOW wire at the wiper motor over to the choke. That will give it power when the ignition is turned on and let it heat up and open.

loosen the three little screws and turn it clockwise that should open the flap a little sooner but clean your carb and lube the linkage.lower your idle screw on drivers side front of carb buy some carb cleaner and start your car, spray cleaner down primaries until your car dies, let sit 20 min start it and do it again, then you know your ready to adjust things.
high idle on startup is set by a screw on passenger lower front part of carb (not %100 bout edlebrock)

Alright, I started looking around to buy a QJet Carb.

Electric choke or no? I don't know if the wiring is set up for it on this car. What are the benefits of an E-Choke anyhow?

Here is a site I've been looking at. Which one of these seems like a good deal to go with?

http://www.jegs.com/p/JEGS-Performance-Products/JEGS-4-bbl-Remanufactured-Quadrajet-Carburetors/752437/10002/-1

thats quick thinkin 464..good advice.
and cleaning allmost never hurts..

before you spend money,,there may not be any thing wrong with the carb,,just out of adjustment,,
check out there website,,do some readin,,then you'll know what we are talkin about,,it'll help alot..
maybe you can keep it,,put some miles on it,,see how it acts..

i havent worked on the edelbrock/carter in a long time,,but they all basicly do the same thing..

if u do need a carb,, rebuilt would be a lot cheeper..

yes u can adjust it,, write down what u change,,and how many turns,,
so u can go back and see if its better or worse..:texas:

i was going to say,,ask the previous owner if he has the parts/motor/carb off the elky..

yes your elky had a elec. choke..
elec. choke is one you set it and forget it,, its automatic..it turns on/off by temp..
manual needs a push/pull cable ran inside,,you turn it off/on by hand,,when you need it..:texas:

i was going to say,,ask the previous owner if he has the parts/motor/carb off the elky..

elec. choke is one you set it and forget it,, its automatic..it turns on/off by temp..
manual needs a push/pull cable ran inside,,you turn it off/on by hand,,when you need it..:texas:


The previous owner didn't do any of the work, the guy he bought it off of did. The guy I bought if off of didn't know anything about cars tbh, he was worse than I am.

find your carb number,,usually like 1400 or so,, and see if the choke info is in here..
theres vids and pdf instructions..at the top there is carb faq's also..
http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive_new/misc/tech_center/install/index.shtml

find your carb number,,usually like 1400 or so,, and see if the choke info is in here..
theres vids and pdf instructions..at the top there is carb faq's also..
http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive_new/misc/tech_center/install/index.shtml


Thanks man, that should help a lot.


Also, there is a hole in the valve cover where I believe the PCV valve should be. I believe it probably hosed into the stock air cleaner. Now there is an aftermarket air cleaner on it, some little cheapy one, and no PCV valve. Should I put one (PCV Valve) back on? If so, should I run a hose into somewhere, or just have the valve?

watch all them vids and read all them instructions and youll know way more than me about edelbrocks:texas: let us know.

download the owners manual here http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive_new/mc/carbs_acc/pdf/carb_owners_manual.pdf


Q: I can’t get my idle below 1,000 RPM with your Edelbrock carburetor, what should I do?
A: Check for correct choke operation and adjustment. Make sure that the fast idle cam is not causing this. Verify the throttle arm rests on the idle speed screw. It is important to verify throttle linkage, and or throttle blades are not binding and have a free range of operation. Throttle return spring should be correctly located and adjusted. In most cases, the return spring should be positioned on the top of the throttle arm forward. This should have been confirmed when the Wide Open Throttle test was performed during the initial installation of the carburetor. Make sure all of the vacuum ports on the carburetor are being utilized or blocked off.

Q: How do I hook up my electric choke (voltage)?
A: The Electric choke on our Performer Series and AVS carburetors needs to be hooked to a “keyed” (while the key is in the on position) 12-volt power source, with a good ground. Verify there is no voltage when the key is in the off position. Do not connect the positive wire to the Ignition Coil, ballast resistor or Alternator.



Q: I see fuel dripping from the carburetor boosters at idle, what causes this?
A: Too much fuel pressure usually causes this and often times dirt in the float bowls can do the same. Make sure your fuel pressure does not exceed 6.0 psi, optimum pressure is 5.5 psi.

Q: Can I run my PCV line to the rear of the carburetor?
A: We do not recommend routing the PCV line to the rear of the carburetor. We recommend that the PCV line go to the front, if you have power brakes, they go to the rear.

yes dont plug it you could blow a seal it should go into a splitter(not sure its name) and one to the big port in the front of the carb, the other to a port on the intake front passenger side behind the alt.

yea u do need a pcv,,it sucks out all the gas fumes..
you have to have some kinda vent or the pressure will blow out the gaskets/seals..
should be a hole in both valve covers,,one for pcv and one for vent..
run the pcv to the big 3/8 port on the bottom/front of the carb..that may also lower the idle,,
depending on weather the carb is rich or lean,,its like a big semi-controlled vacuum leak..
you can get a, "push in breather" for the vent side..

can you do some pics?? :texas: any way to contact the previous,previous owner??
maybe look at the title for a name..

a "T" :texas:
and some vacuum lines should be tied to the gas tank vent canister also..another semi-controlled vacuum leak..:poke:

I'll get some pics.

Title only has the name of the guy I bought it off of.

Alright, I'm losing my laptop for awhile, so I may be without internet access.


I did mess with the idle screw and the choke screw, got it down to a good idle and it doesn't stick near as much. The little bar that comes across from the electric choke was sticking. Opened it up with the screw, doesn't stick near as much, I think it'll work itself out, and I got the idle down.