Need to change the studs that connect the cross over pipe to the exhaust manifolds. Any idea how to get the old ones out?

Need to change the studs that connect the cross over pipe to the exhaust manifolds. Any idea how to get the old ones out?

Depends how bad the originals are. If they're rusted to half the original diameter, it'll be tuff without breaking them. Even so, try this: instead of WD-40, there's something called PB Blaster that you can use similarly to WD-40. But PB Blaster works really well to get rusted bolts/studs out of things that you can heat with a torch whereas WD-40 just bursts into flame and leaves a burnt residue. You need to remove the manifold from the heads so you can flash the torch around without burning up the engine. Flame around the stud for a minute or so then hit the stud with PB Blaster, You'll notice the stuff bubbling around the stud's threads where it screws into the manifold; it's being sucked in between the threads. Keep doing that a few times. Grasp the stud with yer trusty visegrips and very gently, wriggle it back and forth. It won't "suddenly pop loose" but sooner or later, it outta loosen one way or the other and yer almost home free at that point. Keep flaming it and PB Blasting it while wriggling it loose.

That also works with exhaust manifold bolts stuck in the head but it's more difficult since you can't easily get the stuff right up into the threads; so instead, liberally spray it in between the manifold and the head surface so it'll drip onto the bolt. Heat up the head where the bolt goes in, not the manifold. I've gotten a few frozen bolts out like that but usually, when they're that bad, the heads were also rotted and I had to drill the heads off then slip the manifolds off, leaving the headless bolt stuck in the head. Then without the manifold in the way, it was simple to get the thing out as described for studs.

WD-40 still seems to work better than PB Blaster for stuff that you can't heat up but if you CAN use a torch, PB Blaster works VERY well.

SteveH

Thanks. You won't believe this, I brought the manifolds to my Father In-Laws and that's what we're doing. Little heat, blast of PB. Still haven't budged yet, so, since he's retired he's keeping them there and gonna let soak in a couple days. Worse cas we'll cut them down and drill them out.

" that's what we're doing. Little heat, blast of PB"

Rember: they're exhaust manifolds so they can take a LOTTA heat; don't be afraid to keep the propane torch on em fer awhile. When the PB hits really hot things, though, it DOES flare up so watch out the flame doesn't squirt back up into the car ========8-O Whack the ends of the studs with a hammer which'll help break the rust joint; but DON'T hit the manifold.

I've hadda have a cupla drilled out and retapped cause they snapped off too short to grab.

SteveH

Forget the WD-40 or PB Blaster. There's no substitute for the blue-flame stud remover. If there's still enough of the stud left that I can grip with a vise-grip I use lots of heat. Get the stud and the surrounding manifold cherry red with an acetylene torch and then grip the stud with the vise-grips. Work it back and forth. It'll turn a few degrees. Don't force it and be patient. Heat it cherry red again and repeat it until the stud is out. Never fails. It's a lot easier to do this with the manifold in a vise rather than in the vehicle.

Forget the WD-40 or PB Blaster. There's no substitute for the blue-flame stud remover. If there's still enough of the stud left that I can grip with a vise-grip I use lots of heat. Get the stud and the surrounding manifold cherry red with an acetylene torch and then grip the stud with the vise-grips. Work it back and forth. It'll turn a few degrees. Don't force it and be patient. Heat it cherry red again and repeat it until the stud is out. Never fails. It's a lot easier to do this with the manifold in a vise rather than in the vehicle.
Ditto that.

Thanks all. Will notify how everything works out.