I need specs on normal operating pressures, tempatures, and other capacities such as oil & refrigerant volumes. Im finding it hard to come across any info on this system.

Capacity depends on which refrigerant you plan on using. Pressures depend on which refrigerant and ambient temperature among other things, but for a good start, supply at least that info. Also, assuming you already have a set off gauges, is the system working and if so, what is the vent temp and system pressures?

Im using 134A. Here is the situation:

I evacuated the system and started to charge the suction side(low side) with 134A. I started the A/C before opening up any refrigerant through the hoses. It took two 12oz bottles. I checked the pressures and im getting a constant 60 psi on the high side and the suction side varies between 30 and 50 psi...i should mention that the compressor is cycling on and off (thus varying pressure). I bled the system and there was some air in the system. The air in the cabin is noticeably colder but not by much.

I would take the vehicle to a shop which does A/C work. They can recover your present refrigerent (and filter it etc..). When your vehicle was changed over to 134, they should have changed the orfice tube and the Accumulator as a minimum. Have the new shop flush everything, replace the orfice tube, and vacuum the system down to remove the air and moisture. They can then add the oil that is deemed necessary (Ester or PAG....each has its own requirements....Ester is more tolerent of any left over mineral oil in the system....PAG is probably a better lubricant in a fully clean system). You may find that your compressor is not functioning well either. The nice thing about a shop with A/C equipment is that they can keep vacuuming the system and recovering your "gas" while troubleshooting the problem. Have them check your accumulator (receiver/dryer) switch to make sure it is functioning correctly also as it controls your compressor cycling.
Craig

Why not just use R12E (pretty sure that's the correct designation) refrigerant? It's EPA legal and cools better than R12 or 134.

Jack

Why not just use R12E (pretty sure that's the correct designation) refrigerant? It's EPA legal and cools better than R12 or 134.

Jack

There's not a refrigerant called R12E, but there is an R12A (Red Tek, Duracool, etc.).
R12a or HC-12a is a blend of flammable hydrocarbons and is not legal for use in motor vehicle AC systems in the US. It IS accepted for use in stationary systems.
http://www.epa.gov/ozone/snap/refrigerants/macssubs.html

There's one thing about the EPA and alternative refrigerants to keep in mind. The EPA only cares about the potential to damage the environment. They couldn't care less, and make no claims about, the suitability of a refrigerant for use in a particular system. Notice that R-744 is an "acceptable" substitute for R12 in mobile systems. R-744 is carbon dioxide, which cannot work at the pressures available in automotive systems.

There's no true "drop in" substitute for R12. ALL subs have disadvantages or "gotchas" to varying degrees. The only one that really comes close is R134a.