I probably know the answer, but I thought I'd put this out there...

When sanding the primer coat I got lazy in some spots and used 320 then 400. I thought I pretty well had the scratches sanded out with the 400. I skipped shooting a sealer coat thinking this was all new 2k primer with no bare spots.

Yesterday I shot 2 coats of Black Cherry basecoat and I'm seeing some scatches still. The paint store recommending that I scuff the basecoat, then shoot 2 coats sealer, then reshoot the base coat again.

I'll probably start that later today. Man I wish I shot sealer earlier!!

Any other suggestions from you paint pros!

Sorry to hear about the scratches. You hit it on the head - there is nothing you can do once painted other than block out the basecoat until the scratches are gone and reshoot. If you can see scratches in the primer when sanding for the color coat - they will be magnified once painted.

You are smart to stop and ask - I have seen too many poaint jobs where three coats of clear are put on top before asking that question - by then, the paint job is shot . . .

In the future - when you think your bodywork is near perfect, spray 2 coats of good "fill-n-sand" type primer - let it dry. using a spray-can of black spray paint, mist a coat on the car (or body panel) and block it out one more time. Any imperfections will immediately show as dark areas while the rest sands off . . . way old paint and body trick that works - low tech and cheap.

Good luck with the paint job . . .

Dan

Unfortunately it was in the blocking stage that I scratched the suface.. I was just using too coarse paper at times getting lazy...

Well the saga continues...

I scuffed the paint yesterday. Then shot sealer (paint shops recommendation). I was told I could then shoot the base coat over that.

Well we know painting over scratches doesn't do much in elf. So I let it dry a few hours and was able to sand the sratches out perfectly. I started to shoot some color again and started seeing it crackle the sealer on the thin edges! I stopped being pissed that I was probably rushing, I felt like I was ruining weeks of work. I've painted 5 cars before and never had this much frustration and I knew I put more work in this one knowing it was going to be black.

I see today that the product says it can be topcoated in 15 minutes at 70, which it was more like 60 to 62 yesterday but I had heat on in the garage and waited at least 4 hours?? It says scuff and reseal after 72 hours!! I'm going to take a needed break for a couple days at least.

My thinking now is wait until at least Wednesday night. sand down the 3 or 4 spots that I'm seeing some crackle happening. Then go from there. I'll probably shoot a really light couple coats along the edges of the panels. That seems to be where my problems where. Again I'm glad I stopped and waited, I was very frustrated and beer seemed to help me get to sleep!!!

I think I would have had less frustrations simply blocking out the scratches in the basecoat like I had planned then shooting that again.

Caulk this one up as something I will always remember. I know in time it will look very good and probably no one will know it other than us. I'm sure you all can relate.

Hey Heap64,

I'm confused as to why a paint shop would tell you to seal over fresh paint. Usually, this is used for spot repair or under paint to seal in the primer / body work. If you have not sanded through the paint into the primer / body work, there should be no need.

I would recommend wetsanding the entire car at this point with 400-600 grit paper. Restoration shops sand between coats of paint, even when using enamels. Any imperfections will show with wetsanding quite well as the surface becomes sanded (matte) while the low spots and scratches stay shiny. If you see imperfections in the paint, they must be sanded out or they will show through the final product.

Let us know how it turns out

i would block the car with 600 and use a good sealer like dp40 or k38 and then shoot your base coat, shoot 2 coats let it dry good and come back with and block with 1000 and shoot a good 3 coats and then clear. you should have a good paint job.

-86

Are you suggesting a 3rd coat after the blocking with 1000 or 3 more coats (I'm guessing just a 3rd).

I'm part way there now. I gave that sealer a good 2 1/2 days to cure before messing with it anymore. Then yesterday I sanded out the crackled areas (3 or 4 smaller areas). Then I shot a light coat on those first to test everything. Thank goodness it all looks fine.

Gradually I finished up with two good coats giving the car decent coverage. I'm planning to wait a few days then block out with 1000-1200 and shoot once more...

Another question.. I've been using medium reducer and yesterday it was pretty warm here. I'm having some problems with the base drying probably too fast for me to get it all painted keeping wet edges all the time. The result is causing the flake to look hazy, is that oversray?? I have a good compressor, but I'm having to wait some 2 or 3 times while painting each coat so I can't seem to help having some dry edges.

Should I go to a slower reducer for this last coat, or can I shoot it with maybe more reducer to get the last coat layed down a little better. It may be fine with the clear, but I don't want to do that and find the color and flake screwed up!!!

Thanks for all the help out there. It is really good to see the car coming together. I figured I'd wait for more pictures until the clear is on it and we get it outside to buff out in a week or two.

alright after you block with 1000 you put 3 coats not a third coat. and how long are you waiting before you put each coat on and is your shop tempature controlled? these things make a difference when painting. if you can try and keep you shop that you are spraying in around 78 and wait in between 10 to 15 minutes between coats.

64,

If I am reading you correctly, you are having to wait 2-3 times for your compressor to catch up to finish a coat, correct? This could very well be the reason you are getting "dry" areas. My suggestion would be to get a hold of a larger compressor that will handle a whole coat without falling below the desired (50 lbs or so) of pressure. It might be worth it for the sake of your paint job to rent one for the weekend to finish the project.

As for the dry metallic areas, I believe you may also be correct in that the reducer you are using is drying too quickly in combination with the compressor issue. The reducer cans are clearly labeled as to temperature ranges - make sure you have the right one.

If you have dry areas in the base coat and you are goiing to spray more coats, you should wet sand these out with 600 grit paper before continuing on with your final base / clear coats. Unless you cut through the paint / primer, do not seal any more than you have to. The best paint jobs in the world are paint, let dry, wetsand, paint, let dry, wetsand, repeat.

For a high metallic / light color (metallic) paint job, the last two to three coats should not be sanded between as the sanding marks (even super fine) sometimes show through. 86 is right, your final should be two medium wet coats and a third mist coat, sprayed while the second coat is still "sticky", but not too wet. Always spray wet into wet if possible as this will reduce the amount of dry areas.

Best case scenario is finish the car with two good coats of clear, let set up for a day or two, wetsand with 1000 grit paper and shoot two more final coats of clear. This will give you the best gloss, less final shrinkage and the least amount of buffing later.

Post pics!!

Dan

Thanks for the replies... I think I'm back on track.

I was gone most of the weekend, but I did start to wet sand the basecoat last night and it looks like it won't take too much this time to have it nice and flat and smooth.

I got some slow reducer to have on hand this time and I will wait for a good temp night to shoot this time, it's been pretty warm here in the midwest. I'm sure it was too warm last week for the medium reducer. Looks like I better pick up more paint! I have a pretty decent sized compressor, I'm disipointed it isn't keeping up enough to shoot the whole car. Last one I did was a '77 Thunderbird (large car) with a siphon gun no problems?, now I'm using a gravity feed gun (regular) and I seem to be using more air or the compressor isn't making air like it was?? I think the reducer should help.

Anyway thanks guys. I'll be sure to post pictures soon.

What pressure are you shooting for both guns? That question is just for me lol. I'm attemtping my second paint paint job on my '80 El Camino. First was silver metalic. Not an easy paint to spray I am told. Is that the process that is required for base/clear paint jobs? Light coat, 2 coats of color, wetsand next day, add 2-3 more color coats, wetsand next day clear coat, wait 2-3 days then buff with medium then fine compound? What is the safest time frame for taping? I guess if you can wait to wet sand the next day, you could do it after that huh? lol I'm about 2 weeks from paint and have many questions. Might even have to get my own websaite!

I found my problem with the air compressor. I realized it was taking way too long to even fill the tank in the beginning. I don't have a spray booth and the air compressor is in the corner of the shop. Well I should have replaced the air filter after the last paint job!! I took it off and the compressor could breath again. I took out the filter and it was full of paint and clear coat! Man I learned something I won't forget. So to get by last night I took some tee shirt and made some temporary filter material. Today I'll get a real one.

I usually run about 50psi, tad higher on clear. Depends how it is all flowing?? Now the compressor had no problems keeping up.

Last night we got the 3 extra coats of base on, gave our lungs and feet a rest then shot 2 coats of clear on it. Some stuff in it, but not too bad. I'll give it until Saturday then we will wet sand and if it is decent try shooting the last clear.

Well it sounds like you got it licked, about the paint job. Can't wait to see the pics dude.
I still need more info in the paint process. Hopefully from what you've been doing, and some replies by others, I can get the job done.
thanx

I finially have uploaded a few more pictures!

Album (http://www.elcaminocentral.com/modules.php?set_albumName=album135&id=S2010081&op=modload&name=Gallery&file=index&include=view_photo.php)

We are going to wait to buff it out until the motor is back in it later this year. I still need to do the stripes on the hood and paint the bumper and trim. Interior all is getting painted as well, but it is getting there.

I picked up a project for myself finally. A '68 Mustang that has been setting 18 years in a barn waiting to get the Cowls fixed (what a mouse haven!).



I hope an ElCamino and a Mustang can play nice together in the same garage!