It seems to me that all i can do is ask for advice on here but here it goes.

so I have a hand pump vacuum bleeding tool and no real helpers til sunday. i asked the mom's boyfriend and he pumped the pedal for a while but it wasnt any real change.

I crank it up to about 20 in hg crack the screw and get no real fluid.

its a new Master cylinder, had to get some new brake lines in. pretty sure i bench bled it appropriately.

been pumping at the passenger back wheel, thinking about switching to the driver rear for a change of pace. could use a little inspiration or possibly a few pointers.

I greased the bleeder screw to help prevent air leakage, I tightened down all the line nuts for good measure. Have not noticed any brake fluid under the car except that which I have accidentally spilled.

Just a guess here, but I have already had defective reman's right out of the box.

The only other thing I would say is try to bench bleed it again.

well i am getting completely new fluid judging by the color but i am getting like 1/10th fluid and 9/10ths air. I am guessing there is a leak.

not a happy camper.

Sorry, didnt see the New part !!! lol

bench bleeding produces fluid and no air. still cannot find an fluid dripping around the rear. :let_it_all_out:

First, do not mix grease and brake fluid. If you have grease on bleeder screws then remove the bleeder screws and clean with brake clean, alcohol, ether etc. and then blow dry with compressed air.

Second, you need to get the bleeding started. My suggestion is for you to loosen the brake lines coming out of the master cylinder then wait for it to start dripping (commonly known as gravity bleeding). After 5 to 15 minutes the master cylinder should start dripping from the lines at the master cylinder. Each line should drip about once every 4 to 10 seconds (adjust the lines or out to adjust the frequency of each line's drip). Let the master cylinder drip for at least 1/2 hour. Make sure the master cylinder does not run out of brake fluid and keep the master cylinder cap on in order to keep out moisture. After 1/2 hour of gravity bleeding then close lines and move to step three.

Third, open bleeders for front brakes and gravity bleed for half hour. Close bleeders when done.

Fourth, open bleeders for rear brakes and gravity bleed for half hour. Close bleeders when done.

Fifth, do pump bleeding if necessary (make sure that any drum brakes are properly adjusted as this adjustment affects peddle height).

my question to you is how would gravity bleeding solve my issue over any other sort of bleeding?

I am currently thinking that my wheel cylinders are where the air is coming from.

yup found the leak. wish i didn't have to take everything apart. double damn

Okay...For the sake of us who have followed this thread:


Where was the leak that you found?

Best Regards,

Tony :beer:

The mistake that many folks make when bleeding, is pumping the brake pedal. Most service manuals say to make single-positive strokes on the pedal, for each time a brake cylinder is bled, and that the pumping on the pedal possibly induces air into the system.

Leak was found in the wheel cylinders, nothing major but more then enough to suck air with a vacuum bleeder.

took her around the block, the brakes are in no way good but they def stop. once i get a little longer line i will install the power booster. the 3/16 line is just too short to reach the master cylinder. this means more bleeding in the near future.

also found my tranny was three qts dry after sitting for 5 years hope its just the pan gasket, will update more soon.