My turn to ask for help. computer diagnostics is a weak point of mine I haven,t worked on enough. My 99 ls1 has been sometimes stumbling or possibly loading up on acceleration once warmed up. Many times clears up pushing in clutch & revving. Had auto parts store pull codes. 0332 knock sensor, bank 2 low signal , 1153 oxy sensor insufficient switching bank2 sensor 1 , 0650 mal control indicator circuit. Running a professionally modified harness since 03' ,never got indicator bulb to light. Had someone work on for me before -ouch- , with similar running problem. He changed one oxygen sensor to a Nd type, other still original bosch. Not sure which side. Running 2 front sensors only. Which brand mostly preferred if either? Should I try changing A sensor before paying someone again? Is bank 2 the pass side? Can,t just drop off a vehicle so custom nobody else even knows how to open the hood. Eventually I will go to a dyno equipped tuner south of here for a inspection & a custom tune to my internally stock setup. Technical help appreciated. :???:

prob one of best in florida is formato. have dealt with jeremy is the LS world for other cars he knows his stuff. but what is getting me is the knock. wonder if you are getting a fake knock and will retard timing. look to see if your exhaust is hitting anything or anything loose for that matter. tail pipe hitting rear end? anything that can send a false knock signal.

It's possible that you have a faulty knock sensor or wiring from the main harness to the sensors is bad. I had that happen on my truck. It would misfire on accelleration badly. The location under the intake can collect water and cause the sensors to corrode. The

The O2 sensors are cheap enough and should probably be changed out anyway. Yes, bank 1 = left, bank 2= right. Bosch, Denso, Delphi, AC Delco.. all would be OK.

I had the same problem with the LS-7 in my '90 Camaro RS. I changed the knock sensor and the problem went away... Are you using "Sims" on the rear sensors?

Knock sensors under intake wet& corroded sounds pretty Likely. Parked more often than not on unsealed concrete that sweats sometimes. On the oxygen sensor showing bad, I think it is the newerNd. Less than 40k on engine. Modified harness. rear o2's & all unneeded items removed from computer by TPIS-mail order. guess I may Just get 2 knock sensors & 2each o2 sensors,needed or not. Also if my malfunction indicator lamp never worked, should I check it directly at the pin out connector brown/wht wire? Also code showing for cooling fans, which not run through computer. Shouldn,t affect performance,right? Any tips a gen1 mechanic might not know are appreciated, as I have yet to crack open an Ls yet. THANKS:secret:

Doubtful you'll need to actually crack open the engine. The intake is "dry" in that there's no coolant or oil in contact with it. Just get a new set of gaskets (the old ones are probably heat hardended and will crack) to be safe. Once the intake is off, the knock sensors will be right there.

If you have the EGR set up, it would also be a good time to clean the throttle body too. They get pretty some nasty carbon buildup in them from the EGR. I'm overdue for mine again.

By crack the engine, I mean,t I,ve never even had the intake off yet. I did however remove the egr & all unneeded items before running this engine. throttle body probably pretty clean, expect to see some oil in intake though. I studied up on this LS stuff back in 2002' when I got this motor & 6speed with accessories delivered to my house for $4,200 . Thought I,d have modified It internally by now like I do everything else. Now I,ve forgotten some of what I did know. Planning on building my own design intake one day, fabbed valve covers, fender mounted coils & a air intake system to make most red blooded hot rodders jealous.

I love the LS motors, they're so easy to "Find" extra horsepower. A quick thought: Are you using a factory ecm? If so, have you thought of getting a hand-held programmer/diagnostic tool? I use the predator for my LS-7 car. Tried to go through emissions and failed (Using my Race tune.) Switched tunes and passed an hour later... The predator will allow you to see your engine stats in "Real-time" while it is running as well as see engine codes as they happen. (My throttle position sensor was fine at rest, but threw a code at about half throttle.) Wouldnt have caught it if it werent for the predator. They make them simple to use for people like us, who arent too computer-savvy.

Sat afternoon, changed both CRUSTY knock sensors, intake gaskets, both o2's. the 1 person I let work on this changed only 1sensor, the other was the side showing bad. Throttle body pretty clean,intake & head ports not bad, wish I,d had a ls6 intake & needed parts while I was at it. Bought & forgot about hew bosch 4's &msd red 8.8,s last year, put them in. Hope I didn,t cross any wires. 1 ac plug was missing its electrode platinum tip. Also swapped in this dr44-145 amp -2005 truck alternator I got a fewyears ago & never got to. Was seeing strobe light effect on my carpet at idle with camaro alt. much better know. On road test,ran normal. Current power level w t56/ 3.73,s , won,t spin tires much at light to medium throttle on roll on, but a light clutch slip & it comes alive. I could afford a cam & pushrod swap anytime, but think I really want heads at same time. Strongly thinking about going to a place called efi alchemy 1 hour south of me for a dyno tune on the stock ecm & to let a reputable expert look at it at least once. Charges $300 up for dyno tune& $75 up for mail order tune. Will look into the preditor, could never decide what hand diagnostic tool to buy for what price. And I know better than to do something like efi live by myself. Well, thanks for the help.

EFI LIVE is a disaster for people who arent tech savvy. (Like myself.) Glad you got that fixed! I played with a bunch of the programmers before I decided on the predator. I think I would use "LS-1-edit" if I was going to do laptop programming, as a lot of my friends use it on their cars.

i have hp tuners that i use. but still typically let a tuner come to the shop and do the cars. i can do the basics but it is money well spent having someone do the tuning for you.

FWIW MSD has proven to have a bad reputation on wires and coils on vettes, not sure if you relocated your coils or not but gm red hot wires seem to work the best and pretty cheap. Also gm changed the required plug gap to .04 from .055.
And if you are planning on getting heads and cam I would not buy a predator and instead wait and either get a good street tune or dyno tune. Both EFI live and HP tuners are very popular with ls tuners.