I just finished replacing the condensor,evaperator,accumulator,hoses,heater core ect. All new and i took my time asking question and watched a lot of you tube to make sure it was done right. It's not taking the freon. First i hooked up my new compressor 104 psi. with a 4.2 cfm air opperated vacuume pump. cat# ADT-3410. It says it opperates at 75 psi min. I get the compressor up to 100 psi then turn the high/low valves on the quest gauge kit i bought and the pressure on the compressor drops below 30 psi
I let that run for 1-hr the vacuum pump sounded like it was working:dontknow:
The high low gauges never moved from zero.Hooked up freon and it's not flowing in. Disconnected the low side fitting from the accumulator and the freon is making that far. Is it the compressor not enough psi. to run the vacuum? I was looking in my haynes book and the orifice tube i replaced i can't remember if put it in the same way it came out and the book say's make sure how you put it in. Would that block the freon? What do you think i'm not building up a vacuum to pull in the freon or the orifice tube? Everything else i made sure i followed the dotted lines.:banghead::help: How about the r12/134a fittings i noticed on the low pressure new fitting has a valve stem seat in it and the accumulator has one also inside . The kit i bought said for most GM cars.

Mine wouldn't take freon either so I removed the low side adapter (converts the fitting from R12 to 134A) and found that the rubber O-ring was blocking the one needle valve from pushing the other.
When you running your vacuum pump are you opening both sides of your gauges? You vacuum pump also has an open and closed valve on it (a handle or knob) you can turn it on and hear the difference in the sound from open to close.
Donny

Mine wouldn't take freon either so I removed the low side adapter (converts the fitting from R12 to 134A) and found that the rubber O-ring was blocking the one needle valve from pushing the other.
When you running your vacuum pump are you opening both sides of your gauges? You vacuum pump also has an open and closed valve on it (a handle or knob) you can turn it on and hear the difference in the sound from open to close.
Donny
I will check the fitting. What if i took the valve stem pin out of the one on the accumulator like on a tire or maybe it's fixed in their. If i didn't create a vacuum in the system would that keep it from letting the freon to enter? On the guage kit the low side you can turn the gauge to open and close the line but not on the high side gauge it tells you it's fixed you can't turn it. On the lines theres a cut off for each hose except the yellow. The vacumm pump i got is just a plastic box with fittings, you put it between your compressor hook the vacuum side the yellow hose. Can it be my orifice tube in stalled backwards?

p.s. I turned on my tv and theres no signal. I think i will have a beer before work.

Sounds like your compressor may be too small in output to run the vacuum pump. It needs to be able to run at 75 psi+ once you have connected the vacuum pump. Mine's a 5 hp compressor, and it had trouble keeping up with the vacuum pump after about 10 minutes ( hence the way I did it in steps).

Once you start pulling a vacuum, the gauges should drop to about -28 to -30 psi and stay there. After pulling the vacuum for 15 minutes, close both valves on the gauges and turn the pump off. The vacuum should hold after 15 minutes. If it does, repeat the vacuum process for at least another 15 minutes. If it doesn't hold, you have a leak that you need to track down.

The gauges should have fittings that when applied to the ports, you turn a knob on the fittings that opens the Schroeder valves. I've never seen one- especially the high side, that just slipped on. Can you give us a picture?

{The gauges should have fittings that when applied to the ports, you turn a knob on the fittings that opens the Schroeder valves. I've never seen one- especially the high side, that just slipped on}
I bought the adapters for my gauges and they just press on and lock down on both fittings. To me it sounds like your not getting any vacuum at all.
Do you have car gauges that’s the fittings are fixed on or can you remove them from the ends?
Donny

It does not sound like you are actually in the system, but rather pulling a vacuum on your gauge set and filling it will refrigerant in stead of filling the a/c system.

If the retrofit adaptors you have are aluminum, remove them now and reinstall them in to your trash can.

Go to your favorite parts shack and buy two steel retrofit adaptors, (with schrader valves pre-installed), remove the schrader valves from the accumulator and liquid line service ports. Install your new shinny steel retrofit adaptors on the ports and carry on. You will now be in the system.

I chucked the gauges and used the hose with a cut off valve and the freon passes no problem. Uesd 3 1/2 12oz cans of quest 134r from Wal Mart $11.99 ea. Hooked up the gauges and if their correct at 1300 rpm the low side read 28 and the high side read 250. Temp. with switch on high and doors open read 43 degrees.Thanks everybody for all the help.:secret::texas::You_Rock:

Hay Donny and Mike need any of my old parts? acculumator,condersor,compressor shaft froze clutch fine. evaperator,heater core,hose set. four row radiator needs heavy flush mineral deposits restricting flow 2-years old no leaks. NO CHARGE!!!!!
'

Tried adding freon to a company worktruck with alum adapters & a cheap refill line recently. FIgured out it wouldn,t take the freon unless I pressed & held in on theconnector . Cheap adapters suck. Figured it was the adapters, but I new someone else here would have more experience on it. Now put some black electric tape over that check engine light & enjoy your next fishing trip. And Donny, that,s the first time I,ve saw you post anything technically useful in a while. We all need a good commedian, though.

Tried adding freon to a company worktruck with alum adapters & a cheap refill line recently. FIgured out it wouldn,t take the freon unless I pressed & held in on theconnector . Cheap adapters suck. Figured it was the adapters, but I new someone else here would have more experience on it. Now put some black electric tape over that check engine light & enjoy your next fishing trip. And Donny, that,s the first time I,ve saw you post anything technically useful in a while. We all need a good commedian, though.
That's what it was. Every auto parts here had the same kit or the gauge on the can. Next time i'm double checking the sh*t their trying to sell me. I dont look for cheap, inexpensive is o.k.:texas: SORRY JACKSONVILLE

COOOOLNESSSS Not funny but true!!!:poke:
Glad your chillin bro!!!!
Now send some Texas way!!!
Donny

1439COOOOLNESSSS Not funny but true!!!:poke:
Glad your chillin bro!!!!
Now send some Texas way!!!
Donny
I think you sent yours here. It's humid. I'm off till 9-2 fishing again and i know it's not real with out pic's.

For future reference, NAPA carries the steel fittings.
All of the chain parts stores in my area carry the crap aluminum fittings from the same mfgr..

For future reference, NAPA carries the steel fittings.
All of the chain parts stores in my area carry the crap aluminum fittings from the same mfgr..

I had a napa where i worked and it was more rig. parts so i never checked them out. But i will tell you i packaged everything up and went to auto zone and before i got to the words piece of sh*t he stopped me and said no problem. On the way out i looked where they keep the a/c crap when you walk in and there was another set all taped up for sale. I don't blame the people that work there it's my fault.