My 77 has a bad habit I would like to help her beat. She's a bit of a chain smoker. However, my Elky is very good at converting fossil fuels into a nice cloud of smoke. Here are the details: '77 Elky, 350cid, factory 2b carb. Engine produces bluish white smoke at basically any throttle position, from idle to wide open. The more throttle, the more smoke. Just recently changed plugs. The old plugs were black, wet, and had carbon deposits (more like chunks). Engine does not appear to use much oil, however this is hard to be accurate on since I do not drive the vehicle regularly. I believe that most oil loss (about 1 qt) between oil changes has been due to the usual leaks of a 27 yr old motor. I adjusted the timing (more by ear..didn't use a timing light, but I can borrow one for fine tuning), replaced vacuum lines, and cleaned the carb. Still, she's quite a smoker. I intend to replace the engine with a ZZ4 crate motor within the next 18 months, but I would like to drive my Elky a little in the meantime without leaving a vapor trail. My personal opinion is that its a carb tuning issue (a skill that I am admittedly not very good at). First, are there any good manuals on carb tuning that anyone would recommend? Also, if any of you carb gurus have any suggestions, I would appreciate it. Thank you for your time and your suggestions!

Have you checked your Anti freeze level and or have you been losing some with no signs of leaks cause with white smoke is usually coolant getting to the combustion chamber (Head gasket or head etc...) .When you pulled the plugs that were wet did they smell strong of gas ?

Blueish white engine smoke means you are burning oil. Black smoke is a fuel problem, so I think your problem is something other than carb.

bsg208, I'm with you. It is not the carb. I think it is worn out rings.

It's either rings or valve seals. A water leak into the combustion chamber would be pure white, the bluish is oil.

Remove the oil breather from the valve cover (while it's running) and hold your palm over it tight. If it builds up pressure, your getting blow-by up through the seals. This also means oil is getting down into the chambers through the valve seals. A head rebuild will fix this.

But, if the seals are shot, the rings could be as well. If you have plans to replace the motor, how much do you want to do to this one?

If your losing a quart of oil between oil changes and you think it's due to leaks - is there a full quart of oil spread out on your driveway or garage floor? That's a lot of oil, it would make a spot about two feet wide.

Re-build or replace.

Good luck,

Elky77

Thank you everyone for your help.

Razor, it's definitely not the anitfreeze, so no cracked heads or anything. I've been thru that before on a chevy truck, so I know that's not the problem.

Bsg, the smoke is definitely not black, so I suppose the rings and/or valve seals are toast.

77, I'll try that simple test. As far as how much do I want to spend on this engine, very little. At least on the internals. If I can't put the new parts on my next engine (carb, intake, etc) I'm not going to bother. As I feared, I may need to accelerate my schedule and just get that ZZ4.

While on the subject of the ZZ4, will I need to beef up the TH350 tranny to handle the 355hp? I at least plan to have the tranny rebuilt and get a new torque converter with a higher stall speed. Any recommendations for the tranny? A 700R4 would be nice, but that's not in the budget right now. Sure would like to just freshen up the TH350.

Go with the heavy duty torque converter and add a "shift-kit". It will be an awsome change, you'll break the tires loose when it shifts into second. Just like I do.

Good luck

Elky77

What is the stall on your TC?

1200 stall. I drive it everyday and anything higher would be too radical.

I agree that you should move up your schedule. If your going to change motors, it doesn't make sense to do a total rebuild of the old one.

Good luck,

Elky77

If you have a coolant leak into a combustion chamber the sparkplug from that cylinder would be squeaky clean; chunks of carbon indicate oil consumption.

I'd say that the valve guides are gone (leaking) probably the rings now too so a re-build or a replacement is in order. The THM 350 is plenty of transmission for a 355 Hp engine. I'd go with an overdrive just for the mileage if it were me and they are a little stronger than the 350.

I wouldn't worry about adding a stall converter with only 355 ponies it would be overkill and could hurt the overall performance of the engine/transmission. The cam in the ZZ4 is not radical enough to warrant a stall converter. Expect to see about 280 to 300 hp at the rear wheels at best. It would be good to determine what exact timing and fuel system was used when GM Dyno'ed the engine so that you can match that, otherwise you can end up with a lot less then the rated 355 Hp. I think they use a 750 CFM Carburetor but I don't know that for sure. So if you do get a GMPP crate look at the paperwork you get with it and try to match their components and timing curves etc... For best results anyway. But a THM 350 is sufficient. You wouldn't put out over the 350 Lb-ft. of torque that the transmission is rated for and if you have a good kit installed then it will probably last you two or three years in the truck.

But a THM 350 is sufficient. You wouldn't put out over the 350 Lb-ft. of torque that the transmission is rated for and if you have a good kit installed then it will probably last you two or three years in the
truck.

According to the product info at Scoggin-Dickey, the ZZ4 is rated at 405 lb/ft torque. That is why I'm concerned that the TH 350 may not be enough tranny. Here's the GMPP crate info from SDPC:

http://www.sdpc2000.com/cart.asp?action=prod_detail&catid=120&pid=117

Horsepower: 355 hp @ 5,250 rpm
Torque: 405 ft/lbs @ 3500 rpm
Compression Ratio: 10.0 to 1
Block: Cast Iron 4-Bolt Main, 4.000" Bore
Crankshaft: Forged Steel, 3.480" Stroke
Heads, Chamber Size: Aluminum, 58cc Chamber
Valves (I/E): 1.940"/1.500"
Camshaft, Lift (I/E): Hydraulic Roller, 0.474"/0.510"
Dur. @ 0.050" (I/E): 208/221 degrees
Intake: Aluminum Dual Plane

Regarding converters, since a higher stall may not be needed, then will a stock TC handle the ZZ4? Does anyone on this forum have a ZZ4 in their 4th gen? The reason I am hooked on the ZZ4 is that my dad has one in his '57 Bel Air. It has a M22 tranny and a Ford 9" behind it. I don't know what ring & pinion it has, though. The engine breathes thru an Edelbrock dual carb setup. Lets just say it will push you back into the seat pretty hard. I'm impressed with the solidity and the performance of the ZZ4 and I'd like to have that under the hood of my Elky.

I'd say yes, the standard torque converter should be sufficient. If its required to do a CAM brake-in then I'd leave the Torque Converter unhooked until after CAM brake in, if CAM brake in is required. If you have roller lifters then CAM brake-in is not necessary.

Remember you are going to loose around 10 to 15% Hp. in the drive train alone and another 5 to 8% on the accessory drives on the engine so while GMPP says you get 355 Horses its at the Flywheel not the rear wheels they can't make a claim like that on rear wheel horse power. Also that 355 HP is @ 5000 RPM not at idle and the torque ratings are @3500 RPM. So I don't see any problem running the THM 350. If you've got a shift kit in it and any other beefier parts the better but a stock transmission should be good for a couple of years. If you were running a Stall converter rated at around 3000 RPM then possibly you'd have some issues with the transmission, but even then you could end up being fine still.

I'd end up replacing that THM 350 with an overdrive so that you'll get better economy but then that's just me. I don't like THM 350 transmissions but they have their uses and some people like them a lot. For me they are weak and I've never put one behind an engine with significant HP that has lasted.


Anyway Good Luck and I know that you are going to love that ZZ4.

I appreciate all your input. I agree that a 700R4 would be best, but I may have to wait on that a year or two since the motor will set me back several g's. I will have the TH 350 checked out, and put in a shift kit before the ZZ4 goes in. Hopefully that will last a year or two until I can afford a built 700R4. In the meantime (and after the heart transplant) I need to have the paint and body done, rebuild the suspension and brakes, put in a new wiring harness, and recover the interior. 8O Man, this Elky gonna cost me a few $, but I don't care. The things you do for love. :cool:

Blueish white engine smoke means you are burning oil. Black smoke is a fuel problem, so I think your problem is something other than carb.
thats not true, i had this problem myself, and i asked my auto-shop teacher about it, blue smoke means a rich fuel ratio mixture, black smoke means you are burning oil.

The other way around 87 Elky---black smoke is excessive fuel, bluish smoke is oil consumption.