Hello again ECC,
been a few months since the TPI swap in my '82 Elco... this is on an LB9 305 with a virtually brand new TPI setup... heres my problem... EVERYTHING is wired CORRECTLY and is golden along the lines of functionality HOWEVER... whenever I put my foot to the floor for more than like 3-5 seconds, about 5 seconds later I get a check engine light (this also happens when I get on the freeway). I know what your thinking now... plug in a Diag. tool now... here's the next problem... when I shut off the car, the trouble code clears and it reads code "12"= No FAULT...and thats it... leaving me with no real way of diagnosing this light... its like the MEMCAL isn't storing the codes leaving me with no real corrections??? Could this light be caused due to me having no cats? did I miss something in the wiring??? Bad TPS sensor??? Im lost on this one! HELP!

Did you wait through the repeated 12?? It repeats "12" 3 times and then it gives you the code(s). Could be because the origional cat. The origional cat has whats called a down flow oxygen sensor. My check engine light used to come on whenbi would travel on the highway over 75 mph after about 10 minutes. I dont know anything about TPS other than i have it.

It's your EST or Knock sensor. The ECM checks for excessive knock counts the first time after start-up that you have WOT for more than 3 seconds. If the counts are too high, or the signal from the EST module is too low, then it reports and SES light. Mine does the same thing. It could be your knock sensor, or the EST module ( or the grade of gas you are using). Since I don't do WOT that much anymore, and the ECM clears, I just ignore it.

Darbysan,
Its a brand new knock sensor and the EST related items are all new (newer)... I use ONLY 91 octane in this thing and I still throw codes... I did a lil research yesterday and probable cause is leading me to the MAF sensor. I have a K&N reuseable filter and according to the research I've done, at WOT, the air being ingested into the motor pulls the oil off the filter and causes the element inside the MAF sensor to read faulty causing a rich A/F ratio (thus the SES light)... This also explains the highway driving scenario... On the highway it doesn't come on until about 5-10 min of driving (enough time for a lil oil to hit the sensor)... Considering the the MAF burnoff relay is new and my voltages around the MAF are correct, I'm going to attemt to clean out the MAF sensor and see what it does (keeping in mind when i first started this swap, i had a HUGE backfire through the MAF sensor which doesn't really help it much)... Will update if this is the problem and if it was a fix... We may have the same problem??? I'll let you know...

Okay, here's the update.. cleaned out the MAF sensor with an appoved solvent cleaner... worked nice... cleaned out the MAF EXCELLENTLY! However, in relation to the problem at hand, the motor starts LOADS smoother and idles much better than before... Throttle response improved slightly along with overall running (doesn't smell like gas anymore either at start up)... :nanawrench: On the note of the SES light though... I ran it WOT three times for about 5 seconds each time and here are the results: 1st time-No light! Throttle response was MUCH better and car seemed to just pick-up and go a lil better than before (MAF was filthy)... 2nd time-No light, same results... 3rd time- WOT for about 7 seconds... light came on 10 seconds after throttle was released from 100%... Could be knock sensor... doesn't help that I did my valve-lash adjustments incorrectly a few weeks ago... :p

May be possible for someone to tune the computer to make that circuit less sensitive.

wtg 82
my maf has to be dirty too,,what kind of appoved solvent cleaner do you use??:texas:

JJLT1,
I went to Autozone and bought the CPC MAF Sensor Cleaner in a spray can... cleaned it out completely in about 30 seconds... about a 5 min job and helped a lot! helps to just spray the entire interior of the sensor... gets the dust out too... On a more "SES light" note... I ran the car normally today (no heavy foot) and no light... but when i pulled over i popped the hood to check some stuff with the motor on... revved it up to about 2.5k rpm and when i let it off, i got this awesome little knock that sounded like someone threw a socket into the cylinder... Know what that means?... new motor time... Sounds like the pushrods are worn out, or maybe even REALLY bad rings... Either way I got a guy with a FRESH HP 350 and i know the TPI setup willl work on it provided i change out the knock sensor and the injectors (From 19s to 22s)... So Darbysan, maybe it was the knock sensor detecting the engine knock??? Go figure... :neutral2:

Just for fun, I tried loading a slightly less aggressive spark table. I had mad mine pretty aggressive when I did the tune. Boy, what a difference. It runs So Much better now. I tried the WOT test and did not get the SES light, so I guess the less aggressive spark table reduced the spark count to an acceptable level.

I learned a lot here. I as I am in the middle of a buildup on my original 305 with rebuilt 1989 corvette "113" aluminum heads and a TPI setup. These heads come with 58cc combustion chambers. Its go VERY slowly as I don't have much time to spare.

This doesn't directly answer your question but here's an article about TPI's,so maybe reading this may help with where to look or maybe not.
http://www.classictrucks.com/tech/0404cl_tuned_port_injection_questions/index.html

Just for fun, I tried loading a slightly less aggressive spark table. I had mad mine pretty aggressive when I did the tune. Boy, what a difference. It runs So Much better now. I tried the WOT test and did not get the SES light, so I guess the less aggressive spark table reduced the spark count to an acceptable level.
Darbysan, what are you using to retune the ignition table?
I have an LT1 engine in my car, it reprograms through the diagnostic connector, but it's OBD I so it's hard to find a programmer.

One little thing I'll mention here again, Tpi setups are happier with a computer compatable type profile.Other minor issues come into play whan the computer's not happy with the cam. If you're swapping engine, now,s the time.
Just sayin.

jlcustomz,
Im looking to find a 350 and swapping out the PROM (Hypertech sounds pretty attractive), injectors (19s for 22 or 24s), the ECS module and knock sensor... Along the lines of the actual motor... Im in the market for either a hopped up 350 or (if I can afford it) a 383 and have the computer PROM'ed for the cam and whatnot... Not gonna do the swap until about marchish (after tax returns) and try to make it to where I NEVER have to pull the motor again... I know the 350 Im looking at is about a $1,800 HEAVILY BUILT motor and should work with the TPI provided I use the correct spark tables... We'll see... right now its all talk and numbers... Im gonna try to adjust my valve-lashes again tomorrow in hopes of NOT having to pull it... if I dont get the knock again... I'll stick with the 305 for now and see if I can program the ECM... We'll see... The Elco is still running fine and looking better as days go by, im DEFINETLY pampering it however until I dictate that the motor does indeed need replacing... Discovered today rear main seals are leaking... helluva week... :secret:

Darbysan, what are you using to retune the ignition table?
I have an LT1 engine in my car, it reprograms through the diagnostic connector, but it's OBD I so it's hard to find a programmer.

Not sure I can help with the LT1. I use a Burn1 programmer and TunerProRT, and just burn a new chip. Might check out moates.net, and see what they recommend. I know they have stuff that will allow direct programming from the laptop through the port, after that I'm stuck.

jlcustomz,
Im looking to find a 350 and swapping out the PROM (Hypertech sounds pretty attractive)...... Im in the market for either a hopped up 350 or (if I can afford it) a 383 and have the computer PROM'ed for the cam and whatnot...

Just some input. There is no way a commercial (Hypertech) chip can work for a custom TPI setup. There are just too many variables. For what you would pay for 1 chip, you can buy the stuff you need from moates.net, download some files, and be able to fine tune to fit your setup. It's really pretty easy, once you get into it. For more info, check out thridgen.org in the DIY Prom section.
http://www.thirdgen.org/techboard/diy-prom/288763-prom-tuning-guide-book.html

Regarding the new engine- TPI really struggles to support a 383. You will likely need to get a high flow intake and high flow runners. Otherwise, you will run out of air at about 4000 RPM's. 350s' are OK, as long as they are not too wild. The TPI computer needs a reasonable amount of vacuum to operate properly. Too wild a cam will throw that off. You need an LSA of at least 112. Lopey cam is a No No.

Thanks Darbysan... The 350 this guys got is apparently built with AFR heads... thats y its so expensive...

TPIS was one of the first company's to offer aftermarket efi help.http://tpis.com/caryears/listParts/8 Had one of their printed catalogs from the early 90's. One of their test 383 engines with stock intake made like 500 ft/lb torque, but ran out of steam early. Their mini ram intake (like lt1) is better suited for larger engines & higher rpm,s. It looses low rpm torque over tuned port, but keeps up on the high end. Whatever you end up doing,just make sure your intake, cam & computer tuning are a match for each other.
For now with your old engine, some of the noise could be as simple as a bent pushrod or rocker arm , especially if there is a performance cam pushing old stock components.

do you guys know over tightening your knock sensor can make it too sensitive and will false sense other noises in the engine,loose worn bores,forged pistons.noisey valve train noises.put a lot of teflon tape and dont over tighten them.never put them in dry.i have a 83 malibu with a 350 zzz crate motor that gave me fits the first week it was converted,ran doggy ,check engine lite intermittently would come on then go out with no set code. the guys at gm powertrain were a big help.the light has to be on for more than an instant to set a hard code,but if you check for codes before you shut it off it may catch the temp code.once you turn off the engine all temp codes automatically clear.but gm was the one who told me about the knock sensor,he said to back it off and see if the problem cleared,i pulled it put about 6 rounds of teflon tape and reinstalled 1/2 turn past hand tight and it was a different car

FYI, the knock sensor needs to see ground through the engine block. Too much teflon tape could insulate the sensor, making it inoperative.

Darbysan... No teflon on the knock sensor... Discovered the problem... timing was WAY to advanced... brought it down about 5-7 degrees and all is well at WOT... took a lil while to figure it out, but hey... it works now... :) Also discovered engine was rebuilt correctly, valve lashes were not done right... redid them and now this thing runs like a champ. I'm not getting any knock, smoke, ping, SES light...NOTHING! just get in and go as of right now... Thanks again for everything...

it will make ground.you just dont crank it in,its not a head bolt.have you ever put a fitting in and had to take it back out ? the tape is not good for a second install without a leak.the same is true with the knock senser.the threads make contact just by thier design,the teflon tape only fills the voidswhich would leak otherwise.this info came direct from gm powertrain in 97 when i was haveing issues with an original 350 ho motor code zzz,the motor is still in the car and it never set a code since for knock or open knock sensor circuit witch would come up without adaquate ground.i am sure gm is smarter than all of us ,so if they advise it and it works.who are we to question. have you ever bought a new sensor from gm? they come coted in dry seal a hard red sealer applied to the threads with instructions on exact torque and a warning to not over torque

Carl, I'll take your word for it. I am only reporting on previous posts where the Temp Sender has been installed with Teflon Tape, and the Temp gauge was not reading properly due to the ground. I assumed the same problem with the knock sensor.