A/C Box Leak Repair Photos? [Archive] - El Camino Central Forum : Chevrolet El Camino Forums

: A/C Box Leak Repair Photos?


P8riot
01-26-2012, 07:42 AM
I have an A/C box leak in my Elky. How do I know? Whenever I run the A/C, the passenger floorboard under the glove box gets wet. Plus, when it rains a lot, the same thing happens.

I have confirmed that it is not the window seams or weather-stripping. My problem is that the Chilton manual I purchased to help with my ongoing resto of the cruck is short on specific steps and photos of the job. (Any links to an actual service manual that won't break me would be awesome).

I have not been able to find any photos on these forums after a lot of searching. I am hoping that I may have just missed them somehow. Does anyone have the link to photos or steps? I found this link for the heater core replacement: http://www.chevyasylum.com/core/Welcome.html but will those steps work on the Elky? They seem to be for a different vehicle.

Also, how long is the estimated check/repair time for this job? I have today and tomorrow off and while no rain is forecast, I really want to take care of this issue before I get mold, mildew, or rust started inside.

This is at the TIP TOP of my list of repairs above anything else. Any advice, tips, tricks, or instructions would be extremely welcome.

Thanks!

acauth1
01-26-2012, 09:58 AM
That link provides the correct instructions since your 83 is a "G" Body.

As for how long it will take you depends on your own skill level. Mitchell manual calls for 2.6 hours labor time for heater core, but an experienced tech could do it in less than an hour.

Nicholas J . Hornickle
01-26-2012, 10:33 AM
Note, I had to repair a leaky heater core (broke the solder joint while replacing hoses) and found it very difficult to remove the Heater Core/AC Module that covers all this. The instructions and dwgs were excellent, but the plastic cover took 3.5 hours to remove. It was sealed at the firewall and much care must be taken NOT TO TRY TO LIFT OFF too soon. Someone had damaged this on a prior repair and broke the cover, something I discovered while digging out all the black rubber sealant. Finally got it reassembled in good time (made an 8 hour day out of all this), but all is back working. Hope to never have to get back inside this heater core module again.

P8riot
01-28-2012, 08:19 AM
Thanks for the info. I'll have to tackle this next weekend.

JJLT1
01-29-2012, 05:51 AM
you might try pulling the blower motor out and checking the drain in the bottom first,,
that thing will get full of leaves and dirt and plug up..

get in there with a vacuum cleaner and clean it up real good,,then i use a water hose also
clean off the evap. core also,, then blow it all out with a air hose..
you can put some plastic under the box inside and run it into a pan,,if you try the water hose..
you can get to the drain from the bottom,,
it may fix most of your problem,,but if the box seal is bad? you may have to pull it anyway..:texas: goodluck

P8riot
01-29-2012, 06:19 AM
Thanks for the tips JJLT1. I was able to get a service manual with detailed instructions to go along with the pics in that link I referenced earlier. Wish me luck, lol!

HKDUP87
01-29-2012, 06:36 AM
Thanks for the tips JJLT1. I was able to get a service manual with detailed instructions to go along with the pics in that link I referenced earlier. Wish me luck, lol!


Heres the Haynes manual instructions with pictures for the a/c. Look around pic # 50


http://s1135.photobucket.com/albums/m636/HKDUP87/COMPLETE%20WIRING/

michaelj
01-29-2012, 06:43 AM
I've had the same leak problem in the past and I used the same link you provided above. The job went smoothly and relatively quickly, though I wasn't rushing to be done fast and I also removed the AC evaporator for an internal cleaning (wasn't hooked up at all.)

If you dig all the way in like I did, be sure to vacuum every little bit out that you can. I didn't do the water dam as the link above indicates, but your mileage may vary.

The thick gasket that seals the AC/Heater box and lid to the firewall broke on me. I addressed the situation by putting all the pieces back in place as best I could, and using butyl tape (the kind you use to seal windscreens) as a caulking. I made sure to really seal where I knew the gasket was cracked. I simply formed the tape around the perimeter, pushing it into the crack between box/lid and the firewall.

No a drop inside the cab since. :nanawrench:

Good luck.

P8riot
01-30-2012, 04:15 AM
Excellent! Thanks for posting your results. I feel much more confident about knocking this out this weekend.

P8riot
01-30-2012, 04:18 AM
Great pics, HKDUP87. That will definitely help!

P8riot
02-02-2012, 08:15 AM
Okay, completed the removal and clean-out of the A/C box. I pulled the heater core and evaporator coils and they were both covered with crud. The drain door at the bottome was clogged with stuff, too.

Got all of it cleaned/vacuumed out (wet/dry vac is awesome) and tested with a gallon of water poured into it. ZERO water into the cab.

The only hitch in the process is that, after I got it all back together, the upper ducts in the dash do not blow when the fan is on. The only air flow comes from the lower ducts near my feet. I am looking over the manuals, docs, and pics to see if I didn't open a particular door or flap when I put it all together.

P8riot
02-12-2012, 06:36 AM
Got the info I needed to troubleshoot the vent issue. Will update other post in the HVAC thread.